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964 C4 light refurb

 
Old 11-27-2017, 03:01 AM
  #886  
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Originally Posted by Richard H
Britool do one 7 x 9 E112301B
Thanks. GBP 7.20 and postage of GBP 11.00. The tyranny of distance, but still worth it.
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Old 11-27-2017, 03:12 AM
  #887  
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Twin clamp sleeve assembly like a pro.

I used two new bolts so the heads were pristine.

Place transmission in neutral.

Find a couple of friends. Station one at each front wheel. You go under the car with the correct Allen key attached to a torque wrench set at 75Nm.

Have one friend hold his/her front wheel still. Ask the other friend to slightly turn his/her wheel which will turn the prop shaft with the sleeve on it. Slide the clamping sleeve rearward when the splines align with the rear shaft splines. The final sleeve position you need it is where the bolt holes line up with the channels in the shaft. If you don't do this you can't insert the bolts as they hit the splines.

Have your team hold one wheel and turn the other one until the shaft rotates into a position where you can insert the first bolt. Torque to 75Nm.

Have the team repeat the turning until the other bolt hole appears. Insert the second bolt and torque to 75Nm.

Place the plastic and rubber covers over the access holes.

It's very easy if you follow this procedure. There is nothing to man-handle.

BTW: Nice engineering from Porsche to have a design where the bolts loosening are unlikely to allow the shaft to separate as the splines will hit the bolts before they do that.
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:56 AM
  #888  
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Power steering banjo bolt. Two new copper washers. Torque to 30Nm.

Just for fun, I took the advice to anneal the washers first.

Heat the washers cherry red and let them cool naturally. It's supposed to make them softer so they seal better.

NB: I’ve edited the above text. I mistakenly cooled the washers in water. That is NOT the correct way to anneal / soften copper washers.
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:50 AM
  #889  
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Next up is completing a full brake and clutch fluid flush. I'm using a fluid similar to the existing one so the colour change method of knowing when I have removed the old fluid won't work.

Instead I'm going to do it by volume. The shop manual specifies the bleed quantities:
- 250 cc at each wheel, bleeding both nipples.
- 50-100cc at the clutch slave cylinder.
- 250-300cc at the Lateral PDAS lock (side of differential) and
- 200 cc at the Axial (longitudinal) PDAS lock (front of transaxle)

I have marked up my motive bottles to measure the amount of fluid removed.
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:22 AM
  #890  
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13 point bleed completed. The only annoyance is that the PDT999 would not connect to PDAS so I had to bleed the diff locks via the console switch. In total I used just short of two litres for the full flush. As much as I liked the Castrol SRF I downgraded the new fluid to Motul RBF600 as it meets my likely needs at a much lower cost. If I had a C2 with only one litre I probably would have stuck with SRF which has a far higher wet boiling point, which is what you need at the track to help prevent brake fade.
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:29 AM
  #891  
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With the bleed finished, I fitted the rear ARB, central tunnel cover and front cover, put the Cup1s back on and lowered the car down to the ground. I have a few things to do yet, like the throttle linkage then it's ready to fire up. Before I do that I want to put the Silver car up on to lift to find the source of a clicking in the front left suspension. This is never ending
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:34 AM
  #892  
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Originally Posted by John McM View Post

Heat the washers cherry red and quench them in cold water. It's supposed to make them softer so they seal better.

Are you sure you have that right John? My understanding is that to anneal you must cool slowly in the cooling quickly will temper.

Pete
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:10 PM
  #893  
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Originally Posted by Peteinjp View Post
Are you sure you have that right John? My understanding is that to anneal you must cool slowly in the cooling quickly will temper.

Pete
Oops, thanks Pete. You are correct. That will teach me to double check recommendations first. Iĺll edit the above.
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Old 12-02-2017, 03:45 PM
  #894  
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The Silver car'┬ĺs cooling fan was hitting the fan shroud due to a badly worn hub bearing.

I carefully removed the old bearing (it took a few hits with a copper hammer but was ok as long as I supported the fan around the bearing area), then took the fan and shroud to a powder coater I trust.

The Silver colour was the closest they had to the factory fan colour so I chose that.

A new hub bearing was inserted using a small plastic hammer while I held the fan in one hand.

Then it was all reinstalled. No rubbing!

Before https://youtu.be/dkgaYx08pB0

After https://youtu.be/NXwsob-lhCY

Cost was $130 for the bearing and $65 for the powder coating.
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:20 PM
  #895  
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Trial fit of the original tail with a spoiler grille I bought off a local. I will need to read the manual as I can't get it sitting right.

Unfortunately I don't have the mechanism to lift it at speed so it will be a fixed tail. It should be fine at the speeds I drive at.
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:49 PM
  #896  
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John, who was the powdercoater?
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Pel
John, who was the powdercoater?
Pro coat http://www.procoat.co.nz/
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Old 12-20-2017, 05:58 AM
  #898  
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I ordered a leather refurb kit where the colour coat fluid unexpectedly has an expiry date so I had to reprioritise work and do the recolour.

The sequence is leather cleaner, leather prep (takes off any sealer and a few layers of colour), spray colour then sealer and finally conditioner and protector. The colour is not an exact match to the vinyl but I'm very happy with the outcome.
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:11 AM
  #899  
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With the seats done, I finally installed the rear interior in the Silver car. It fitted very nicely.

Before and after pics
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:18 AM
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The 993 brake reservoir cap and overflow blanking plug arrived. No more need to put a clamp on the overflow when bleeding the brakes
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