Teardown begins. Suspension madness...
10-17-2015, 03:45 PM
#110
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mr.Alex
You are a madman. Just sitting over here, deciding whether to visit you in a week or so, or come next Spring.
10-17-2015, 11:49 PM
#112
Race Car
Thread Starter
I have limited pics to show, but man what a project...we installed a rear swaybar, wevo mounts, and a rennline reinforced engine carrier.
Swaybar is easy enough. Unbolt the transaxle tray, unbolt the swaybar, bolt in the new one, torque the bolts around the hangers, don't torque the drop links till the car is on the ground.
For the engine carrier ( and this is good for those of you lately that have been wondering about how to get to your cam chain covers), you take off the heat sheild under the cat, take off the rear bumper, which is basically the tow long 10mm bolts holding it to the bumper shocks...take out the 8mm screws holding it to the body, and a few 10mm bolts to the brackets around the back, and it slides right out. We didn't want to figure out how to take out the electrics so we placed the bumper off to the side and left it plugged in.
Then out comes the primary muffler, if there had been a secondary, it would have had to have Come off, but he had a gpipe. So all good. After the primary is out, remove the heater pipe. Then the blower motor pipe up top. Then unbolt the rear engine tin. And you start to see you can unbolt the plastic hear sheild covering the cam chain covers to get in there to do the seals. We then supported the middle of the block, braced the motor from tipping by putting a second jack under one heat exchanger and jengo blocked the other side also under the heat exchanger.
Cracked the bolts under the motor mounts. Cracked the bolts to the engine carrier. Double checked that nothing would fall and all was well. Remove engine carrier and motor mounts. Replace with reinforced carrier. Install wevo mounts. Torque wevos to 40 ft/lbs on the 19mm nuts and 18 ft/lbs on the 13mm bolts per their instructions. If you over torque the 19mm nuts, you collapse the poly bush. So careful of the specs their if you drop your car w wevos to a shop. They won't have the spec.
So then we need to reinstall the tin. Sucky job. And we couldn't actually get the two bolts that go down from above in the middle of the engine bay, to do anything but cross thread themselves going in. So we left those two out. If anyone has any clue how to get a bolt through that tight space, out with it. Next time I do this, I'm drilling out the threaded nuts that are welded to the engine carrier and dropping the bolt down through the hole and adding a new nut. That would make it infinitely easier.
For the rest of it, it's back as it came out. Reconnect everything and then realign the exhaust tip, cuz typically after and change to wevos the motor sits at least an inch higher.
Wheels on, drop car, drive it down the driveway and back to settle the suspension, and then torque the swaybar bolts to the drop links. You do this later so you don't add uneven preload to the swaybar. I don't have the torque spec for the 19mm bolt and nut from the drop link to the swaybar. So if someone has that, lemme know.
And then he drove away. Apparently I am hearing the car is transformed...
Swaybar is easy enough. Unbolt the transaxle tray, unbolt the swaybar, bolt in the new one, torque the bolts around the hangers, don't torque the drop links till the car is on the ground.
For the engine carrier ( and this is good for those of you lately that have been wondering about how to get to your cam chain covers), you take off the heat sheild under the cat, take off the rear bumper, which is basically the tow long 10mm bolts holding it to the bumper shocks...take out the 8mm screws holding it to the body, and a few 10mm bolts to the brackets around the back, and it slides right out. We didn't want to figure out how to take out the electrics so we placed the bumper off to the side and left it plugged in.
Then out comes the primary muffler, if there had been a secondary, it would have had to have Come off, but he had a gpipe. So all good. After the primary is out, remove the heater pipe. Then the blower motor pipe up top. Then unbolt the rear engine tin. And you start to see you can unbolt the plastic hear sheild covering the cam chain covers to get in there to do the seals. We then supported the middle of the block, braced the motor from tipping by putting a second jack under one heat exchanger and jengo blocked the other side also under the heat exchanger.
Cracked the bolts under the motor mounts. Cracked the bolts to the engine carrier. Double checked that nothing would fall and all was well. Remove engine carrier and motor mounts. Replace with reinforced carrier. Install wevo mounts. Torque wevos to 40 ft/lbs on the 19mm nuts and 18 ft/lbs on the 13mm bolts per their instructions. If you over torque the 19mm nuts, you collapse the poly bush. So careful of the specs their if you drop your car w wevos to a shop. They won't have the spec.
So then we need to reinstall the tin. Sucky job. And we couldn't actually get the two bolts that go down from above in the middle of the engine bay, to do anything but cross thread themselves going in. So we left those two out. If anyone has any clue how to get a bolt through that tight space, out with it. Next time I do this, I'm drilling out the threaded nuts that are welded to the engine carrier and dropping the bolt down through the hole and adding a new nut. That would make it infinitely easier.
For the rest of it, it's back as it came out. Reconnect everything and then realign the exhaust tip, cuz typically after and change to wevos the motor sits at least an inch higher.
Wheels on, drop car, drive it down the driveway and back to settle the suspension, and then torque the swaybar bolts to the drop links. You do this later so you don't add uneven preload to the swaybar. I don't have the torque spec for the 19mm bolt and nut from the drop link to the swaybar. So if someone has that, lemme know.
And then he drove away. Apparently I am hearing the car is transformed...
10-18-2015, 12:16 AM
#113
Rennlist Member
Did you buy the Rennline kit and fit it or send it to them to fit? As I'm in New Zealand I had no option but to buy the kit and get it fitted here. Luckily my engine is out so it will (hopefully) be easier to fit than in situ.
10-18-2015, 12:22 AM
#114
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by John McM
Did you buy the Rennline kit and fit it or send it to them to fit? As I'm in New Zealand I had no option but to buy the kit and get it fitted here. Luckily my engine is out so it will (hopefully) be easier to fit than in situ.
Every unreinforced carrier I have ever taken out has been bent. Always where the carrier gets thin at the ends. So be careful with the welds in that area. Needs to be strong.
10-18-2015, 12:24 AM
#115
Advanced
It was the complete Rennline reinforced carrier. I will return my twisted one for a core credit. It completely transformed the shift engagement. The NVH isn't even increased, but what is worth mentioning is the terrific higher pitched whine of the engine that wasn't noticeable with the stock mounts. It has allowed the whirring engine sound to be audible. It sounds more like a 3.2 motor's whine than before. I love it!!
10-18-2015, 11:34 AM
#116
Race Car
Thread Starter
Great 964 turnout at cnc new Canaan. Must have been at least ten. Also great to see Jordan's car stayed in the neighborhood...
I have no pics...anyone?
I have no pics...anyone?
10-18-2015, 03:21 PM
#118
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by spartansix
Great meeting you guys today... I didn't take many pictures, but here are a few!
- Dave
- Dave
10-18-2015, 07:57 PM
#119
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Westchester County, NY
Posts: 195
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I was so "car struck" I didn't get any pics. I did get pics of our post-C&C prep of The Mainer for the body shop. Kinda looks like it's ready for a rally.
10-20-2015, 10:48 PM
#120
Race Car
Thread Starter
Ok so got out there finally to reinstall the front end. Impact wrench makes the ball joints and tie rods easier to install. Have lots of aluminum antisieze and copper antisieze available. And the shop manual open. Remember that brakes and struts have their own section in the manual, and all the related torque specs are there, and not where they should be, which is on the main chart next to the diagram of the suspension.
I basically did it from the ground up, ball joints, tie rods, axle and strut. Fit abs sensors, wires, brake lines, clips, heat shield, rotor, brake caliper. Reassembly is easy, so I went slow to make sure I didn't miss anything. Easy jobs are the place I always make mistakes, cuz I think I've done it a thousand times and then forget something important, like torquing a bolt. So I take my time and stay methodical. Hank Williams in the background singin me gloomy songs...
So the first front end is done, four more. We are waiting on some bolts and eccentrics for the spring plates and some parts for the monoballs from elephant (elephant monoballs don't work with stock size spring perches without discussing w them how to make them work)
And then tie up the rear and off to alignment.
Mikes car is at the body shop for a partial respray. He's up next. This one has a lot of rust, so the fun begins. We are likely to go through many gallons of apple cider vinegar before all is over...
I basically did it from the ground up, ball joints, tie rods, axle and strut. Fit abs sensors, wires, brake lines, clips, heat shield, rotor, brake caliper. Reassembly is easy, so I went slow to make sure I didn't miss anything. Easy jobs are the place I always make mistakes, cuz I think I've done it a thousand times and then forget something important, like torquing a bolt. So I take my time and stay methodical. Hank Williams in the background singin me gloomy songs...
So the first front end is done, four more. We are waiting on some bolts and eccentrics for the spring plates and some parts for the monoballs from elephant (elephant monoballs don't work with stock size spring perches without discussing w them how to make them work)
And then tie up the rear and off to alignment.
Mikes car is at the body shop for a partial respray. He's up next. This one has a lot of rust, so the fun begins. We are likely to go through many gallons of apple cider vinegar before all is over...