Stereo install: speakers, subwoofer, amp, sound insulation
#136
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
My system is working great. I am very happy overall and would do it again but I have nothing to compare against other than the stereo in my 2006 Toyota Truck (a JBL branded thing) and the one in my wife's 2006 Mercedes E-class. It plays as loud as I want, handles bluetooth calls, and on the occassion I listen to the radio the HD-radio usually kicks in. I would love to have two subwoofers but not sure my little amp would have been up to the task. I didn't use the second subwoofer because my kid is in the backseat every weekday morning. I never screwed in my subwoofer into my car but I think its fine.
#138
Rennlist Member
Ricardo, thanks for the tip on the JL Audio xd400/4. I was happy to get rid of my big amp in the frunk and install this neatly under the passenger seat. Unfortunately, my bass response took a hit too. Here is what I'm running now, and some impressions that I think may be of interest-
1. CDR-220 head unit.
2. JL Audio xd400/4 amp under the passenger seat
3. Infinity 60.9CS components in the front doors.
4. Infinity 42.9i 4" speakers in the rear (cabrio size).
5. Second Skin products soundproofing in various places.
I recently installed the JL Audio amp. Previously, I was using the Infinity 475a amp in the frunk. The sound with the Infinity amp was just about perfect to me. At high, but still reasonable, levels the sound was full, crisp, and had great bass response. The Infinity amp had a bass boost circuit that gave +6dB at 50Hz, which I had turned on for the front speakers. I think that was the key. With the new JL amp, the sound is still very good, maybe even slightly better clarity, but the bass response is greatly lacking.
The CDR-220 only has bass/treble tone control. The bass control seems to be a pretty wide Hz range and increasing it too much quickly makes the bass muddy. I don't know if a head unit with fancier eq abilities could imitate the old amp's bass boost response or not, but I do like the looks of the CDR-220.
1. CDR-220 head unit.
2. JL Audio xd400/4 amp under the passenger seat
3. Infinity 60.9CS components in the front doors.
4. Infinity 42.9i 4" speakers in the rear (cabrio size).
5. Second Skin products soundproofing in various places.
I recently installed the JL Audio amp. Previously, I was using the Infinity 475a amp in the frunk. The sound with the Infinity amp was just about perfect to me. At high, but still reasonable, levels the sound was full, crisp, and had great bass response. The Infinity amp had a bass boost circuit that gave +6dB at 50Hz, which I had turned on for the front speakers. I think that was the key. With the new JL amp, the sound is still very good, maybe even slightly better clarity, but the bass response is greatly lacking.
The CDR-220 only has bass/treble tone control. The bass control seems to be a pretty wide Hz range and increasing it too much quickly makes the bass muddy. I don't know if a head unit with fancier eq abilities could imitate the old amp's bass boost response or not, but I do like the looks of the CDR-220.
If you take the outputs of the CDR-220 and feed into an aftermarket DSP, you can not only have very granular equalization settings on a per-channel basis (4 channels equalized differently), you can also adjust the delay to each speaker so that all the sound hits your ears at the same time --- thus shifting the sound stage so that it is directly in front of the driver.
I did this on my own CR-220 (I have the tape deck w/ CD changer) --- stashed the DSP under the passenger seat. It works very very well and the difference between using the DSP/equalization/time delay and not is fantastic. Without the DSP the music sounds a little muddy and the sound stage is not centered wrt to the driver. With the DSP --- everything sounds fantastic.
I am using an alpine 4 channel amplifier under the passenger's seat as well --- and focal drivers in the doors. I do not use a subwoofer and feel that the bass is good enough that I do not need a subwoofer.
I have attached a screenshot of what it is like to program the DSP (plug a laptop into a little usb port under the seat where the DSP lives).
Here is the thread on my installation -
Thread in the 993 Forums
Last edited by Jlaa; 01-26-2015 at 07:41 PM. Reason: reworded for clarity.
#140
Rennlist Member
Almost any dso with lots of equalization points will work. Mosconi, alpine, audsion, etc. i use an audison bit ten.
#142
Also, i have older rockford amp/ mb quart speakers. Do u think they are sufficient?
Does the hu matter if using a dsp? I will be buying one of those.
Does the hu matter if using a dsp? I will be buying one of those.
Last edited by Streetdaddy; 01-30-2015 at 01:36 PM.
#143
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
I only bought one sub.
#144
I modified the template you had uploaded earlier, and made it so it has the cut outs on both sides (can be mirrored) and suitable for just running through a laser cutter. I've attached it in case it's useful to anyone.
Got my focals door mounted with some dynamat behind them and still not super pleased with the bass, don't want to go behind the seats so I'm messing about with seeing if I can move things around to a get a kenwood underseat sub under the passenger seat, it looks like it might fit, but I may need to space the seat up somehow.
My other thought is to just switch to 6.5" Focals in the doors and see if that helps more.
-R
Got my focals door mounted with some dynamat behind them and still not super pleased with the bass, don't want to go behind the seats so I'm messing about with seeing if I can move things around to a get a kenwood underseat sub under the passenger seat, it looks like it might fit, but I may need to space the seat up somehow.
My other thought is to just switch to 6.5" Focals in the doors and see if that helps more.
-R
#145
Thanks Ramans! I've been trying to get around that but now that will make it that much easier!
What are you guys coating the wood with so it doesn't absorb moisture?
What are you guys coating the wood with so it doesn't absorb moisture?
#146
Wonder if you could make this from acrylic?
I used to be in hi fi home stereos and that was well regarded for turntables, shelves.
Anybody know how hard it would be to cut these from acrylic?
I have bought 1/2" sheets of it before... Not very expensive
I used to be in hi fi home stereos and that was well regarded for turntables, shelves.
Anybody know how hard it would be to cut these from acrylic?
I have bought 1/2" sheets of it before... Not very expensive
#147
I made mine from ABS and used a laser cutter I had access too to cut them out. The laser took Microsoft VISIO files so I have it in that format if it's useful happy to share it out.
I'll take some pictures of the ABS versions and post them if you guys want to see but I had an easier time with that then doing MDF which broke in half when I cut them. I used 1/4" ABS From a local TAP Plastics I think it cost like $12 for enough to cut three of them, plus the test cuts to make sure the laser was getting through it.
I'll take some pictures of the ABS versions and post them if you guys want to see but I had an easier time with that then doing MDF which broke in half when I cut them. I used 1/4" ABS From a local TAP Plastics I think it cost like $12 for enough to cut three of them, plus the test cuts to make sure the laser was getting through it.
#150
Started with my Targa I found that using those cheap cutting boards of approx 3/16" thick work very well. They cut/mill easily and do not rot or deform in moisture. Might be worth checking.