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I had to get a new relay and found one in Germany and got it installed in the control unit. I then thought that I should get at least one spare to keep. I found some in Poland very cheap and bought 2. If you look for part V23072-C1059-A203 they should come up on EBay. The company are called TV Sat Electronic and their website is www.tvsat.com.pl. The ones they stock now are closed relays as opposed to open relays. They are reasonably priced so get a few if you think they are suitable. Let me know how you get on? Brian.
Thanks, I ordered a few, closed as you mentioned. https://www.ebay.com/itm/392669498524
Will update after install and test. Many thanks for the part number and reply.
Throstur
What is the time to actually travel on retract and extend? If the relay was suspect I don't think it would actuate at all.
Could it be the timing for the warning is not quite right. That is controlled by an RC timing circuit and it's not unknown that the caps degrade and change the timing.
What is the time to actually travel on retract and extend? If the relay was suspect I don't think it would actuate at all.
Could it be the timing for the warning is not quite right. That is controlled by an RC timing circuit and it's not unknown that the caps degrade and change the timing.
I doubt it, when testing yesterday, good 15 sec passed after hitting 80 kph until the light came on..
What is the time to actually travel on retract and extend? If the relay was suspect I don't think it would actuate at all.
Could it be the timing for the warning is not quite right. That is controlled by an RC timing circuit and it's not unknown that the caps degrade and change the timing.
Right, the relays basically never go bad unless the contacts are burned or the coil winding is open (too high of a battery voltage), i.e. replacing them is a waste of time & money.
Right, the relays basically never go bad unless the contacts are burned or the coil winding is open (too high of a battery voltage), i.e. replacing them is a waste of time & money.
The contacts look like new, it is difficult to clean the contact, tried that yesterday. Could not go out for a drive to test the results though, all road covered with snow and lots of salt.
Anyways, with all transistors ok, coils (maybe) ok, the spoiler raises and lowers slowly. The motors does not seem to get enough grunt, next is lube the joints, checking the motor.
I am familiar with similar relays in pinball machines, been working on those for years, either they work or not.
After ehem a few years I managed to fix this, the screws I used for the plastic cover were too long. This creating an extra force on the motor! After tearing everything apart, worm gear, new modules etc.. this was the reason. Whoop Whoop!!
I have a 1989 C4. The bearing on worm gear on the spoiler lift motor failed and I replaced it without any trouble. During the repair I decided I’d like to be able to manually raise the spoiler from the cockpit however the 1989 model doesn’t have the manual activation switch. Can anyone suggest how best I might be able to achieve this?
Wire up a double throw double pole switch to reverse polarity. where you’d hook those wires hook up Is your choice depending wire routing and switch placement
Both faults were fixed by replacing the three electrolytic capacitors circled in the pic, although I suspect it was the middle one causing the issues. If you are handy with a soldering iron it’s not difficult and replacing all three helps avoid going back in for the next failure.
My rear wing deployed and then refused to go back down. My wife's diagnosis was Viagra overdose!
The motor worked fine in both directions when hot wired. The mechanism was smooth, and the limit switches were fine. The wiring checked out. Porsche wants $250 for the control module, and even used ones were $150.
There was a $0.50 transistor in the controller that was blown, so the repair cost was 50 cents plus a couple days of my time. The schematics for the controllers are not published, so I had to trace the circuit and draw a schematic before I found the problem.
Two things:
1) The German transistor has a "333" marking, but looks identical to a 2N2222 general purpose switching transistor. WARNING: the collector and emitter are reversed in the 333, and if you substitute a 2N2222, it will smoke immediately. That is the reason for the two day troubleshooting exercise.
2) The controller is no big deal to fix. There is a quad op amp, and about seven transistors plus the two relays that drive the motor. Now that I have invested in this thing, I can troubleshoot and fix the things in minutes. Anyone have some bad spoiler controllers they want refurbished or are will to sell?
On US cars, the controller is located on the passenger compartment front bulkhead, under the passenger's foot well carpet. It is gray plastic, about 1" x 2" x 4", with a connector on the end. There is one Phillips screw holding it to the bracket.
I am attaching this to Springers message in hopes I do not have to deal with this ...... I have a 90 C2, Spoiler failed to raise a few times so looking to see if anyone knows the ohm value of the spoiler motor .. Using the manual switch spoiler does not go up all the way .. I have taken the transmission off checked with drill seems to work as should.. Using the manual switch ( motor only ) cycle up and down 3 times 15 secs each time with just the motor hooked up it works great then slows and stops . Will not work up and or down. let some time pass and it will work again ... So failed motor getting hot or controller.. I have put any eye the jumping of the box to check it out but still a bit in the dark about proper steps ..... I would not want to deal with what Springer has done but need a fix . An old thread but good ppl here
I am attaching this to Springers message in hopes I do not have to deal with this ...... I have a 90 C2, Spoiler failed to raise a few times so looking to see if anyone knows the ohm value of the spoiler motor .. Using the manual switch spoiler does not go up all the way .. I have taken the transmission off checked with drill seems to work as should.. Using the manual switch ( motor only ) cycle up and down 3 times 15 secs each time with just the motor hooked up it works great then slows and stops . Will not work up and or down. let some time pass and it will work again ... So failed motor getting hot or controller.. I have put any eye the jumping of the box to check it out but still a bit in the dark about proper steps ..... I would not want to deal with what Springer has done but need a fix . An old thread but good ppl here
Hopefully, leaky capacitors haven't damaged the PCB circuit tracks.
__________________
Loren
Systems Consulting - Automotive Electronics
Specializing in Porsche cars http://www.systemsc.com/
Hopefully, leaky capacitors haven't damaged the PCB circuit tracks.
Happy to say this is not this case I have the board on the bench all the pcs look good all the traces are good but the proof is in the testing the guy across the street does this work all the time so I will get him to remove at lease the 3 caps and check them ..Spoiler works as should but does not go up all the way and like I said before with just the motor hooked up holding the manual switch up and down about 15 secs each time " 3 times " the motor will no longer work until something is cooled down I suspect, Next is the wet finger to see if any part is getting hot causing the problem . Board and parts look good.now to try a new approach Thanks
John I am also having problems with the spoiler I was needing to know how did you find it was these caps in fault,,,,, I am going to have mine checked I have a 90 C 2 a few post on the links here the motor runs great on it owns for a time period maybe 3 sets at 20 secs each up and down and them nothing would these failed caps cause this ?????? I plugged in the unit today ran it up and down motor only worked as should I have the unit on Tore B page and wondering the large yellow waffer I cannot recall what it is called but used to take up the inrush of current if it got hot enough would it stop the spoiler from rasing.. a thought . the 3 caps you took them out of the pcb and checked them and found to be bad good work
12-29-2020, 04:51 PM
