The silly little question thread ...
 

I'm often stumped by something porsche that I can tell will/shd/surely works ...
But I just can't see exactly how. Today it happened again .. For about the 7th time
so I thought I might as well just start a thread for these little things.

Like I remember puzzling over fitting the plastic cup that goes into the front of the shift rod ....
Turns out it needed to be pried in with a screw driver - I didn't think of that or thought it would damage it
so never tried that and 2 hrs later was still stumped ... And frustrated!

Any way for most of you it's stuff you can't even remember that you forgot ...
But for others/neophytes/amateurs like me these little gems are important/fun and sometimes feel like mountains not molehills ;)

So to kick it off ... How do these work - Plastic Loom retainers that fit onto the body welded threaded studs?
I don't seem to be able to ..
1. Get one of them off without cutting/breaking it which ai don't want to do
2. Imagine how to put one on if I had a new one ... It has to screw on to the body mounted screw ...
But it can't do a full circle (never mind multiple ones) once the strip with the holes is located on a screw...

What am I missing?? Are these single use? do you have to hammer them on new?? Pity if it's so.
Thanks all.

They can be pryed off with a trim tool. They are fitted by pushing them down the studs or tapping home with a hammer

I had the same question. See below.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ess-clips.html

l
 

I will play as I am making shameful progress with my 964 refurb. I am doing the side skirts and was wondering once you get a new rubber sill seal how do you know which end of the rubber goes where ? also do you trim some rubber off as it seems it is slightly longer then the sill length>

It has a little notch which matches the slot in the skirt. The leftover rubber tucks behind the arch don't cut it.

Thanks V, Tom .... Just used a small claw hammer - worked perfectly.
Seems in this case and re the shift rod cup plastic needed force - wasn't expecting that!

Thanks for the hand!

thank you Lemass
will look again this weekend have a leaking garage roof :( which is not leaking loads but the drip drip is still a irritation. I was under the impression some one put the wrong seals in the wrong packets are they sided? as I was having issues trying to fit it but will tackle it again later on today.

Yes they are sided for both sill covers and shark fins

Another little one ... Which holes are there in the car to allow the doors to close well ie without them bouncing off the air TRAPPED inside the cabin?

Are any of the holes on the ear parcel shelf for breathing or anything crucial .. or can they be plugged/covered over? I see some of them are taped but others ie closer to the rear glass aren't,

Bump for this one ^ ^ please

I think the ventilation holes are somewhere in the back quarter areas of the interior, and they vent to those circular holes that are near the oil cooler and a/c condenser behind the front bumper.

Yep vents are in the rear quarters just below the side windows. You can see a gap between the top panel trim and the glass rubber

Tanks Guys ... Just getting ready to stick down rear parcel shelf replacing insulation etc... :cheers:

Hey,
I was wondering if anyone knew of a good online shop for custom seat belts? I am going for some green belts to match my exterior along with some other things I have planned; a green tach, and black Lloyd mats with green "Porsche" stitching. The small yet flashy bits of green should bring some of the Wimbledon Green excitement into the otherwise 100% black stock inside.

there's actually a 964 RLr who has a specialty belt shop who mentioned an upcoming groupbuy...
paging StuartQ ... http://www.quickfitsbs.com/

Hey Tom, they have seat belts in pink :)


http://www.quickfitsbs.com/images/co...Q7PbwmWCPK.jpg

Good idea for a thread. I had been wondering about those loom retainers recently.
So now i have just cut it off and can get at the crash sensors to give them a clean.
Now i need a tool to remove the nuts in the picture. What is the tool called so i can get one ?
Thanks

Are you sure you need to remove the crash sensors? On my car, the air bag lights kept coming on. When I would pull the error codes with my scantool, it was the left front crash sensor. I disconnected my battery, waited 30 minutes and then disconnected the connectors on the crash sensors, sprayed them with contact cleaner and then reconnected them. I cleared the error codes and my problem has been solved.

Hi Rob ,
I cleaned the connectors that are a push fit a foot or so higher up with contact cleaner spray.
My fault code was for right side but i cleaned both to be sure .
Then tried to clear with the scantool without success. I searched rennlist and found posts by
Adrian Streather in which he states that you have to clean the sensor and the wiring loom connector pins ?

Turbo glad to hear it .. and Re your first post:

You don't need to cut off the loom retainers ...
Just pry them off with a small screw driver first to make a gap big enough for
the back of a small claw hammer or pry tool if you have one ...
as LeMass Tom said

:roflmao:

The vents are at the side in the rear seat area, see the slot just to the right of the door latch?
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1391807017.jpg

they have plastic 1 way flappers to allow overpressure out and keep noise and elements out
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1391807085.jpg
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1391807112.jpg

Hi folks,

When I removed the rear blower to access the lambda sensor I found this un-connected connector. Any idea what it's for and should I re-connect it (to where?)

Thanks
Chris

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps7606ede9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps56f93559.jpg

My C4 uses that connector. I can't remember off the top of my head what its for. Maybe the cruise control?

yeah cruise control

are there differences between US and european bumpers (front and rear), apart from the license plate recess size? do US cars have impact bumpers and if so are they deeper? what about the bumper supports?

+1, cruise. There should be a plastic cylindrical retainer type clip toward the bottom of the bracket w/ all the connections. That's where the two connector halves meet and reside.

Thanks guys! My C4 doesn't have cruise control, so is this a redundant plug (that would only plug in if I had cruise)?

Chris

Thanks Bill .... I had a feeling it was those ... I guess the slits in the carpet
Is enough to get the air in there

Tom, Rubystone webbing is possibly going into production.

any info? don't want to be a noob who starts a new thread for this :p

The plastic hardware attached to the rear impact beam is different between US and euro bumpers.

but the beam itself is the same?

The pt nos are the same for the front, but are different for the rear. See both PET's.

Spoiler Warning Light - I assume this is what it is? The little image of the car with an arrow pointed at the spoiler?

Just noticed that this light doesn't extinguish once the engine has started. Is this normal?

The spoiler light goes out once the car achieves a speed of 4 km/h

Thanks, I've yet to go that fast ! :)

Yeah, better to work up gradually ;)

thanks

I wonder what the difference is... But anyway I will find out this week when I try to fit an euro bumper in place of a US one. If needed I will either customize the support or get an EU one...

Look at the pics in this thread.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...mper-face.html

The actual pics are a US beam. See those two fat plastic blocks towards the center, where the US plates goes? Now look at the PET diagram further down the thread. That's the RoW beam.

You can fit a euro center (RS or standard) on a US car, but you gotta chop those big plastic blocks off the US beam. A Dremel makes quick work of it. I did it when I went RS center.

great, thanks!

My odometer ticks over. Doesn't rotate smoothe. Normal?

REAR TOW EYE IS IN A DIFFERENT PLACE ON EURO REAR BEAM TO US ASWELL

Here's one for you guys...

Does the handbrake release button un-screw? I'd like to change it for an aluminium one.

Chris

PET Page 244.
:thumbsup:

Cheers Harry :)

Mine doesnt want to un-screw, so its time for more pressure...*goes to get hammer*

Chris

Mine does that, but I won't claim it's normal. Might be, but there are gears in there which are known to fail, and this may be a common symptom that gear failure is ahead.

I don't worry about it; if it breaks the fixes are well documented.

Ok, my turn.

What are you guys using to clean/condition your outside rubber? I'm talking about around the windows, hood, trunk, etc.? I've gotten a little wax on them so now they have a white haze and want to remove it and bring a little life back into the rubber. Is everyone just running to the local store and picking up some "back to black" or is there something else that might work better?

I use Griot's Garage Rubber Prep to clean the rubber. I then use Vinylex to protect it.

Groit's Vinyl & Rubber Dressing

Aerospace 303, you've got to try it, works great on all vinyl, plastics and rubber etc

Chris

Silly question. What are stage 1 cams?

does anyone know how the carpeted plastic interior cover pieces in the passenger footwell fasten?
I see the metal piece at the back which slots in ... but in the front (ie towards door frame)?

There's a screw isn't there? Toward the edge of the door frame. Look (feel) closely, it may be hidden in the carpet.

thanks V! was under the vinyl edge

Back to the rubber trim question, I thought virtually nothing removed wax from the rubber. Any other suggestions that is Autozone store easy and not mail order?

Greg - You can use Prep-All or similar paint prep solvent to remove wax residue. Its readily available at your local hardware store.

I used an old toothbrush and some silicone spray (in my case Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care, Armor All will do the same) to remove some fresh wax residue from the rubber between the front bumper and the body. I had to apply it a few times, along with agitation from the toothbrush, and it eventually removed the signs of wax residue.

After I had that small lapse, I proactively worked over the rubber pieces with the toothbrush and silicone spray before I started waxing in any area. The fresh application of silicone spray made removal of wax residue (using the silicone spray and toothbrush method) much easier in the event I got some on the rubber trim.

Where do people buy touch up paint? The little bottle with the brush in it. How about for black L700 TS?

I got mine at the dealers parts counter.

Dealers in Boston have to order it, and it's a ripoff.

What does a heat exchanger do and do i need it? Because i see some exhaust systems without heat exchangers.

^^^ Transfers heat from the exhaust system to heat the interior cabin. Some go without for various reasons....live in a warm climate, less weight, etc....

I've heard good things about paintscratch.com

Excellent thanks. Rarely goes below 25 degrees C here so I think I'll lose it.

Quick one, does anyone know good LED bulbs for the RS rear bumper lights?

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...02/st12-73.jpg

1156 4.5W 360LM 6x5050 + 28x1206 SMD LED White Light Car Brake / Backup / Signal Lamp (10~15V)

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...02/st12-75.jpg

vadit you are a complete star mate.

sorry Vandit, typo there.

Am looking at a C4, but require it to have the cat for driveclean in Ontario. Can you tell me if this is the cat, or a cat bypass???

It's not the standard CAT (it doesn't have the heatsheilds), so it's either a by-pass or an aftermarket replacement sports CAT.

+1 - If you take it off and look inside, you can quickly tell. If the pipe is hollow, then its a bypass. If it has a honey comb material inside, its a cat.

Looking at a set of aero mirrors for a 1995 911. Are these the same that would fit a 964??

Yes sir

manual spoiler switch
 

On an'89 C4, the spoiler switch is under the decklid and the AWD override is in the center console. Has anyone ever installed a later model C4 center console plate that provides both switches there rather than the switch under the decklid?

brake wear sensor difference front and back?
 

What is the different between the Front and Rear brake wear sensors. They sell front and back. Is it the length?

Where is the switch to open my convertible top? :)

hidden just above your key. toggles forward and backward, not the side to side toggle.

Thanks. And follow up silly question - if I toggle that switch AND the pressure plates that control the latching motors, will I be able to see if those suckers still work? My issue is that my top is down and broken and I'm replacing with a hard top, but I want to know what I can salvage from the soft top...and currently just using the pressure plate/switch on the convertible top to test the latching motor without actuating the convertible top closing switch isn't helping...

do all years require a distributor vent kit? also, there's what seems to be an air nipple behind the centre light reflector, what is that for?

Yes, a distributor vent is recommended for all 964s. The air nipple for the center reflector is to keep moisture out. Both your distributor and center reflector should be connected to the air pipe connected to the heater blower.

Cool thanks. What would I connect them to if I've removed my blower motor and blocked off the heater pipe?

I've seen this solution from Rennlist. (No affiliations)

http://www.rennline.com/images/M05.07-2.jpg

You use a plate like the one on the right in the pic below and make a bigger hole it it to use the factory tube and grommet. I cant find a pic of one installed though.

http://www.myricambi.com/upload_news...1389887787.jpg

Dont buy one - just make it :)

*edit Rocket Rob lived up to his name and beat me to it :)

Ok perfect question for this thread ...

Valve adjustment must be done:
1. With engine warm
2. Or cold

Please be gentle ... ;) Thanks

cold.

Engine cold.

Ok great .. So I guess the gap when cold is calibrated for the typical running temp ...super

On the C4, there is a pump that runs when the ignition is turned to position2. Sounds like it builds up pressure, then shuts off. Seems to take different lengths of time to build then stop. This is the ABS pump correct? How long should it run to charge up? If it takes 20 seconds, is that an indication of a problem?

Another one...
There appears to be three horns in the RHS wheel well. The two low/high horns for the steering wheel horn, and another round one, further forward. What is the third one?
I have recently removed the scattered remains of an after market radar detector system and an after market audiovox security system. But the third horn looks OEM an,d not part of this wiring nightmare.

Not ABS, but hydraulic booster for braking system and PDAS. Run time varies between cars, but 20 secs is good.

That's the alarm horn Pete

Has anyone adult sized travelled in the backseat of a 964? I climbed into mine, couldn't tilt the front seat back and almost had to call for help to get out

Not unless they are some world class acrobats. I have a hard time just getting in there to clean the rear area, and doing the wiper delete was ball busting.



Can anyone post a picture of what I should adjust to lower the driver side edge of the hood where it meets the bumper. My side to side gaps are equal, but the driver side is a bit larger. I have no leaks, but when I wash with power washer sometimes there is more water right on the inside of the rubber seal where the bonnet closes.

Great thanks.
I just repaired my low tone horn. Piece of cake.

in college i had six people in a 74 targa...short trip, but the girl in the middle up front didn't seem to mind the 3-4 shift :thumbsup:

It's been a while since I had my suspension off, but can anyone tell me which camber plate (left/right) goes on the passenger or driver side?

Also, for the rear shock, does anyone know if the fatter side goes up against the rear control arm (facing outwards) or does it go on the bolt face side (facing inwards towards the engine).

Don - The strut bearing orientation depends on what style of 964 you are running. The turbo's have a wider track. If you are running the narrow body then the strut center is oriented to the center of the car. If you are running a turbo (wide body), then the strut center is flipped 180 degrees to move the top out, away from the center of the car.

Do you have Adrian's book? I seem to remember a photo about the two comparisons.

Rob (all of you Robs actually ;) ) thanks for the continued insight ....

I have a couple new little questions:

1. re-route spark plug leads:
best way to re-route the ignition wires that run over the fan housing? ie to make the fan housing more visible? there is a gap beneath the housing along the front but that would be close to the block. is it common to just move the cables back over towards the other set that run to the right side of the engine? or is there something cleverer/less obvious?

2. has anyone made a cold air intake that is closer to the decklid/other source of cold air? I'd love more cold air (always helps) but I also have simple aesthetic motivations (damn Singer!) ie to get rid of the stock airbox. Cone filters tend to be loud and will bring in alot of hot air .... or is the volume of air in the engine bay refreshing so quickly (I have read every 3s in a GT3) that its not worthwhile worrying about?

3. removing the 3rd pulley wheel now that aircon is gone - risks re harmonics etc..?

1) My spark plug leads are not long enough to be re-routed. You would need to get new leads made to give you enough length.

2) Not sure its a problem as is. The engine cooling fan is drawing in 1100 liters/minute into the fan.

3) The 3rd pulley on the crank pulley is part of the assembly. Its not easily removed. Perhaps there is a motorsports version without and AC belt ring.

^ thanks Rob! They are likely silly questions but just to clarify ...

1. and were the leads longer, would you go over the back of the cowlng like the other ones?

2. I know the fan is pulling in air under the cowling ... but what about the intake - I thought it was fed via some form of ram air from above through the spoiler?

3. ok thanks! Yes I've seen patrick have one ... wasn't aware the pulleys were all joined. Engine is out so will make that easier - I was concerned re harmonics & balance of the wheels

Found the answer when I ordered replacements http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscvqlj0cx.jpg

Fronts are longer by about 3 inches

If you have oem style wires, then you can simply remove to plastic wire holder and flop them over the fan housing. Since you have the engine out, there's a slightly more elegant solution. I took two of the factory wire holders and stacked them on top of the existing ones and used longer screws to hold them both down.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps6fhzd6uh.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psivwnnbn7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psof2afcrv.jpg

End result
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psg2eaioqf.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psrpiz2dmb.jpg

Thanks for confirming that would work Jpar
Fan and housing looks gr8!

Don't bother with buying another crank pulley, just remove the aircon pulley from the one you have. The rubber can be burned out of the aircon pulley to remove it. You'll then need to lathe of the remaining metal center. I plan on doing this when I drop the engine out over winter for a few mods. The hardest job will be getting the pulley assembly off the crank to start with.

Random question - is American International Racing still in existence? The website looks like it was updated in 1993, sent them an e-mail but just curious whether I should expect to ever hear back

edit: nevermind, got a reply very fast and apparently they are still producing parts

Im looking to get an aftermarket wheel, the only thing is that all the wheel hubs I find are for 90-94 911s. Is the 89 wheel different than the rest or what? FYI Im looking at momo wheel adapters.

For Example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Track-Porsch...eca47c&vxp=mtr

Search for "89 Porsche 964 Momo steering wheel hub."

well that was easy :roflmao:

What brake fluid is everyone using these days? Street car, no real track days as of yet.

I'm running ATE Blue but its no longer available in the US. You can get ATE Type 200 (Gold). Its the same without the blue coloring.

ATE Gold

Pentosin Super Dot 4

Seems like ATE Gold is a tad better than Pentosin. I was also looking into Castrol SRF and Motul 600, but I believe as those are more track fluids, that they would require a flush every year or so.

I am very happy with SRF ... In all 3 cars ... But only needed if you are tracking
It's expensive but worth it for the anti fade ... Better than any dot fluid

I use SRF as well in my Road/Track Day C4. Fluid is twice the price of Porsche Dot 4. The C4 requires 2 litres.

SRF for me too. Have used it for a number of years in various cars both track and road.

A friend recommended it who was a tech for a Le Mans LMP2 (winning) team. If it can work in those extremes, then its got to be good for my humble use.

Im wondering if these wheels will fit my c4 coupe narrow body

fronts are 18x9 with an offset of 28mm
Rears are 18x10 with an offset of 42mm

From my calculations I think they will, but another opinion is greatly appreciated.

I really can't see those fitting bud. Check here:

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

Chris

Rears are OK, fronts are way off.

:cheers:

Thanks guys, I don't want my wheels sticking way out in the front. I guess I won't be buying those wheels.

I also found this site which is pretty helpful for figuring how the wheels will sit.

http://www.willtheyfit.com/

What besides the windshield do I need to have to swap my windshield on my 964 Cab?

I'm thinking of getting this and wondering if I need anything else? DIY or take to a pro?:

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwM...mCw~~60_57.JPG

What is suppose to be under the driver and passenger side floor mats? I have bare metal floor under there. Is that normal? I would like to put the Rennline track mats in but I am not sure if they fit over a bare metal floor.

Thanks

there should be some foam/rubber lining but it get's mucky so usually gone .. they'll fit fine
search the 964 cup car floorboard threads to see more pics .. if you want you can cut closed cell foam to fit those gaps you have and make the 'floor' flatter but not necessary

The floor mats originally covered some spongy noise insulation with a rubber covering which soaks up water beautifully and after 20+ years starts to break down. There are numerous threads about possible replacements including cup style wooden floors as well as the Rennline units. For example https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...board-diy.html

I actually just installed my rennline full races a couple days ago. I didn't weld to the floor - as someone here said, you never really put any weight on your floorboards, so they're sitting just fine without being bolted/welded to the metal.

Look pretty cool too (though I covered with the carpets so the wife wouldn't notice).

Hey guys, I'm trying to replace a few things, but OEM is a bit more than I want to pay, and I don't think they are mandatory OEM items. My only concern is fitment.

Any reviews on this brand?

Short power steering-reservoir hose. 13$ vs 52$ for oem.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...47-445-03-M260

Another question from me, Im looking to get rid of my secondary muffler and I was going to get a G pipe. I am curious is there a difference in power/sound from this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Secondar...item234180f2d7

to this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171447261563?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The J-pipes are very simple designs. I'm sure they all sound the same. The only differences to worry about are the quality of materials and workmanship, if there is any difference at all.

I've heard j pipes are better for power than a g pipe. But I think simply switching out the secondary for a g or j without any other modification actually reduces power. Don't hold me to that since I have no dyno sheet to prove it. I'm only going by what I've heard on the board and my butt dyno. Someone must have before and after dyno sheets,

Someone may chime in abt the back pressure you don't have once you install the g...

Cargraphic makes a yet longer pipe that they claim works even better, but for 395 dollars I passed. Found my g pip on eBay for 25 dollars.

googled "butt dyno" ... didn't dissappoint


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7923995152.jpg

I am looking for headlight trim rings without the adjuster screw holes.
Do these headlight trim rings fit a stock 964? What has me wondering is the "lump" by the fastening screw hole at the bottom. My current rings do not have that.

Those trim rings are for H1 and H4 lenses. What lenses do you have? In the US, the cars came from the factory with H5s. I suspect that's how they came in Canada too. If you have H5's then no these will not work.

By the way, if you have H5's, I recommend you consider upgrading to H4's. They provide much better lighting.

How necessary is it to bench bleed a new master cylinder. Worth it? Or should I just hook up motiv bleeder, bleed the master, and then bleed each corner.

Anyone know where the center of gravity is on a 964 C2? I am thinking somewhere near the back seats. I need to position a car lift in my garage. Thx

front axle weight = 1168 lbs
rear axle weight = 1808 lbs
wheelbase = 89.4 inches

X = distance between center of gravity and center rear wheels

1808 X = 1168(89.4 - X)

Solve for X

X = 35.087 inches, which is pretty close to the base of the hand brake in the center console.

Does 'gear oil' mean the auto transmission fluid in the C2 tip? or is that something else?

also, how do I take off the glove compartment lid? It's separating and I'd like to re-glue it back.

Hockenheimr,

Why the concern about the C2 CG? There are 4 lift points on the car. What kind of lift are you talking about?

This might help. https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995...le-repair.html

:bowdown: bada$$

This car is originally from the US, I suspect they are still the original headlights. An upgrade in the future will be in order!

Suspension question!
I am wondering what suspension is compatible with my '89 C4, or can be fitted with minor modifications. I have heard that the later C2s have a larger lower mounting bolt hole and it can still be used in the earlier C4 with an adapter sleeve.

Dreamstate. The rear shock towers on a "later c2" are the same for all the models. They changed the shock tower mounts to be lower some time in late 90 so that the convertible tops would drop a couple inches farther down.

So basically, you just need to know if you have the old or new shock towers and then choose coil overs accordingly. The rest of the decisions for suspension and setup are the same.

If you don't have it, buy Adrian's book the 964 companion...

How does everybody's brake pedal feel. Is it hard-ish like the clutch, or fairly light? Been driving with a bad booster for so long, that it just feels, "too light" despite bleeding the system twice already after also changing the master cylinder.

Alex. C and c new canaan is moved to waveny park next Sunday. I don't know how the in and out of the park will be, but you are welcome to my keys to take a run around and see if it feels different...

Just give me a heads up prior if you are trekking out, so I can make sure to be there...

Will do. I'm 'planning' to go though, even looks like a nice venue. Would be nice to feel another car.

Thanks Goughary. Per your suggestion, I just ordered the book. Perhaps it will answer most of my little questions!

If I install a cat bypass pipe to an otherwise stock tiptronic will I have any issues? I only ask because on the FVD site it says that DME programming is necessary.

Nope. Depending on some factors, you might have a tiny bit of idle hunt, but nothing really noticeable. Some of the chips offered can correct that problem.

Yay, got my passenger seat out. Anything I should do "while I'm at it"?

I have my rennline full race floorboards. Also thinking of removing the blaupunkt thing as I removed the aftermarket stereo already. Probably not going back to stock, so figure I can pull that. What are the other things I'm looking at, and anything I should do besides clean it up?

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...23345a80d9.jpg

does your headlight level adjuster work? if not look for the vacuum line that runs along the loom there
in last pic on the right ... it might be punctured or kinked ... good time to check

otherwise just check everything is secure and not causing rattles
and vacuum every nook to get rid of that extra weight ;)

will look great with the track ali installed!

Are the sport seats in a 90 C2 full leather or is it just the inserts that are leather and the back & outside bolsters faux leather?

How involved is the process of removing the cat converter?

4 bolts on the exhaust flange and then the donut clamp. Lastly is the O2 sensor that gets unplugged in the engine bay and then fished through the engine tin hole by pressing the rubber grommet out. The skid plate on the bottom needs to be removed to access the nuts and bolts. 15 minutes maybe.

I wired in a keyless entry system so I don't need to use the key. It saves potential scratch marks on the door if you miss the locking mechanism with the key.

Cool. Thinking of having a local muffler shop make a cat bypass pipe for me. If it's that simple then I can trust them with it.

So windscreen out and perfect access to dash - anything I shd consider doing while here?

It have removed aircon ... Maybe there's more weight in dash worth removng
Or a serviceable part worth looking at?

Thanks!

Are there any rebuild kits out there for our front calipers? I think at times my front right is a bit sticky, and the car will gently pull to the left.

Alex I think Pelican and Suncoast may have per other thread/comments ... but I'm considering these

http://www.racingbrake.com/

964 not listed but they said they had the rights sizes

Misc. caliper parts for 964 models. Send us an email if you have any questions. We're always happy to help :)

964 Replacement Brake Parts

I think Suncoast has the proper sizes for our cars, and the other link more for later years, but maybe I just skimmed through too fast.

For a 1990 C2, for just ONE caliper, do I need both the 40mm piston and a 36mm piston?

We do have sizes needed for the 964 and will be adding items specifically for 964 to racingbrake.com. Links will also be added here once items are available.

Here is the link to RacingBrake caliper rebuild kits available for 964:
http://www.racingbrake.com/SearchRes...nsive_Search=Y

Funny, I emptied my vacuum cleaner's capacity 2x after vacuuming. Probably a 1lb of just crud, quarters (paying dividends!), pens, a rusted allen wrench, pack of gum.

I also pulled out what I think is the OEM blaupunkt amplifier or whatever. That weighed a good 3lbs.

New question - do earlier ('89) C4 cars lack the rotary spoiler switch? Internet photos of a desired car show only the 4-wheel drive rotary, nothing for the spoiler.

correct. 89 C4 cars have a single rotary knob for the differential lock. To activate the spoiler manually, there is a small switch in the engine bay on the deck lid beside the spoiler motor.

are all rear wiper delete plugs the same or is there a preferred one? I accidentally snapped my rear wiper arm not knowing a new one costs about as much as a gallon of blinker fluid.

STOP ... See so many wiper deletes already!
LOOK ... For their now unneeded wiper arms
GO ... Post a wanted add

;)

:roflmao:

<<<@!1!@>>>

This is the one I got, its not cheap by any means and it was tough to hit the order button, but I didn't want a cheap rubber look and have to play with silicone to prevent leaks. Its a nice looking piece. I think it ships from Greece, so it takes a little while before you get it. I really like the cleaner look, plus I never need to use mine.

I have micro-cracks at the base of my magnesium fan. Until I order the new fan and get it installed (professionally as it seems there is a lot of wrenching),'to ease my disquieted mind while driving, would it make sense to put a little superglue inside the cracks and ensure I balance it with equal amounts at the opposite side?

Super glue isn't going to help. But if you want to see what happens to the trunk and engine bay when the fan fails, there was a good thread not too long ago. What a mess...

which MOTIV bleeder are people using ... the red label or the black label one?
seems the black is only a bit more pipe and some ali bling ... am I missing anything?
thanks!
Matt

Any good body shop paint supplier can formulate it for you on the spot.Just bring your paint number.You can get any amount.From a half pint to a gallon,or a rattlecan if you ever needed one.Ask any body shop where they get their paint.The little bottles from the dealer are a ripoff to me.

I bought the version with the aluminum cap because with a C4 you want to bleed the hydraulics wet, so that plastic cap that has failed many times in the past, is all that is between you and a few quarts of brake fluid all over the car's paint inside and out.

I had the same questions, is it worth the extra money, etc, but there were enough horror stories to make it worth while.

With a C2, would it matter as much? Not likely, since you would be less likely to wet bleed.

+1 - I bought the Motiv Pressure Bleeder - Black Label which came with an aluminum cap. It works for both my C2 & C4.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.c...axx=150&maxy=0

I found a great deal on a slightly used red label version locally. I use teflon tape on the threads of the reservoir to avoid any leakage. It's held up well in four years of light usage.

thanks all!

Do you have a manual trans???? That diagram is for a TIPTRONIC!!! If you have a manual trans YOu have to use gear oil.Mobil 1 80/90 or 75/90 is good stuff.A lot of people like Redline.You have to jack the car up to get to the fill and drain plugs.We always put a pint of atf in it.Helps synchronizers.You can buy a little pump that screws onto the bottle lid.If your parts store doesn't have one any boat shop will...If you have a TIP use ATF.Don't clean old filter,buy a new one.

How to you remove the round switches from the dashboard? (headlight switch, fog light, rear defroster etc.)

Thanks

Just unscrew the knobs, anti clock wise. Then to remove the switch itself make a tool or use something "pointy" for the two holes you see in the fixing plate behind the knob and unscrew this plate. The the switch will be loose an move inwards.

Easy when you see it in front of you.

Thomas

I have a C4 with the engine and tranny out. If I pull the DME relay, am I ok to attach the battery and check a few electrical items with key in position 0 and 1? I have the AWD long and lat cylinders just hanging and I don't want the system to pressurize and barf the cylinder guts across my garage.

I would be careful. I would pull the PDAS & ABS fuses just to be safe. The DME relay disables the DME and the fuel pump. It doesn't affect the ABS/PDAS power.

Thanks for the prompt reply. Will take your advice.

battery drain
 

New question:

Went to drive the cabrio this morning and the battery was dead. How do I wire up my multimeter to be able to measure current drain? Do I place the multimeter on amps inline (series) on either the positive or negative line?

You can use either terminal as long as the multimeter is in series.

It may be better to start with a light bulb as a test light and pull fuses one by one. Not all multimeter can handle much current.

How do you remove the handbrake button?
Mine is all mangled and I ordered a new one from PP but can't seem to unscrew the old one...

My turn...

Both left tail and brake light are out. Seems odd they would both go. Anyway,meat kind of bulb are they? Assuming I should check my fuses as well

The brake light bulbs are 1157.

Thanks

As long as we are on bulbs. What size are the ones in the gauges, and who is the best source?

I want to add the C4 PDAS bulb to the dash. The green one...

There are two types of bulbs used in the instruments. One is 1.5 watts and the other is 0.9. I bought some of each from Sunset Porsche.

964-641-920-00 0.9 watts
964-631-027-90 1.5 watts

Tnks Rob...

Silly question for sure:

Im replacing my rear shocks on my 1991 C2 Coupe. Going from the stock Boge to Bilstein HD with the stock springs.

What is the issue with lowering the new shocks to the lowest setting that the perches allow? Any big downside? Seems like its too easy to lower this car.

Thought I'd ask while im changing them out, thank you for an answer!

No harm in lowering this way but understand that you will not get as low as you will with lowering springs.

Edit - I agree with Cobalt's answer below. While technically, you can lower the car a bit with the stock springs, it would be very much. If that is your goal, you should invest in some lowering springs.

Actually I see a number of potential issues.

Bad idea to only switch out the backs if you are changing the shock to something dampened differently. Your car will be potentially dangerous to drive at speed and under braking. If you are switching the rears to HD's I highly recommend switching the fronts as well.

You will not be able to lower the front more than a fraction of an inch depending on the car and year. 89's have softer front springs which is even worse when mixing components. Stock springs lowered will bottom out the suspension depending on road conditions.

The HD's are designed to work with a stiffer spring than stock unless you have M030 package. If not the H&R greens are only slightly stiffer than the M030's but are progressive which offers a balance between comfort and performance. Cost of springs is nominal and when factoring in alignment and or installation costs if not doing a DIY you may find you will pay for this twice after you are not happy with its handling.

If your doing it yourself the rear tops are a royal PITA to change with the motor in the car. You don't want to do the job twice.

I wold do my research there are used sets coming up for sale all the time IIRC a set was for sale on Pelican or here yesterday someplace.

Safety is always a concern and a poor handling 911 is not something you want.

Can a bad battery/low voltage cause the Christmas tree effect?

The answer is yes!! :)

Cobalt - what would be the lowered height range with Bilstein HD & H&R greens?

This is a true silly question, but for those who have two square holes in the front plate mounting area, what do you use to attach the bracket? Expandable rivets?

There should be some square nylon or plastic inserts that go in those square holes. You tread your self-tapping screws into them, the back expands out a bit, and they stay in place.

http://cf-design911-1.datadial.info/...9950704040.jpg
999.507.040.40
"Expanding nut"

Yes another sign is an out of control tach. Needle jumps all around usually a bad voltage regulator.

i would not drop more than 20mm below standard height with greens depending on road conditions.

I bought mine with Bilstein HDs and stock springs and it's not pretty....basically you can't lower it more then 2 mm, it handles great in corners but it has the back to front boat effect going on. If you change the shocks then put a few more bucks and get H&R springs.

Door pocket trim
 

The trim piece around the door pocket (towards the front of the door) is bunged up in a couple spots..is that trim piece something I can get ahold of? It looks like it is a single piece that continues under the handle and around the door compartment as well but not sure.

Rollcage
 

What's the difference between sunroof and non sunroof?
Also, I have the opportunity to buy a Matter Alu bar. Any good?

Thanks

Are you asking about different roll bar styles? The roll bars for non-sunroof cars are taller. A sunroof bar will fit in both a sunroof and non-sunroof car. A non-sunroof bar will only fit in a non-sunroof car.

As for the brand and config of different bars, check the rules and regulations of your track/racing organization. They will have specifics on what they will accept.

Thanks
DE car not racing car

DE is typically a lot looser regulations but it doesn't hurt to check with your DE org if they have any recommendations or requirements.

Silly Question. How do I remove the gauge rings? Do they unscrew or pop off? I want to replace my rings with some nice Rennline ones.

The gauge rings are crimped to the gauges themselves. Are you sure you need to remove the existing ones to add the others? I've seen some where they are applied over the top of the existing rings. When I read the Rennline website, it says that double sided adhesive is included.

Description = http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Alu...oductinfo/I04/

Installation instructions = http://www.rennline.com/PDF/I04%20in...nverted%5D.pdf

how does one remove their windsheild wipers? What can you use to fill the hole?

Rob,

Did realize they fit on top. That does make it easy to install. Thanks.

Pat

I have two targa parts labeled "left" and "right". I'm 99.9% sure I know which way they're supposed to go based on their form, BUT I want to confirm, mostly for future reference, when Porsche says LEFT does that mean the driver's side or passenger side?

Depends if it's a right or left hand drive 911 ;). But in all situations I have run across it's always relative to the direction you face when driving. So left is drivers side in the US but passenger side in the UK.

Thanks; what was throwing me through a loop is that the peices seem designed to go one way, but per the left/right and part number orientations go the other way. Can't make heads or tails of it, so it's going to a professional to do.

Btw, I'm FINALLY installing my d.moris hard top!

what is the thickest spacer I can safely put on my rear wheels? I don't want to have to change to longer studs if I can help it.

According to Adrian's book, the max is 5mm without changing to longer studs.

That would bring my offset to 53mm on a 10" wide wheel. Which brings me to my next question and will that fit?

Depends on your ride height and tire size ;)

There's a cap that you can flip forward at the base of the wiper arm, that will revel the bolt that is used to hold it on the wiper motor.

A buddy of mine - with lots of skills - removed his passenger wiper and motor assembly. Looks very clean.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8...0/DSC_0146.JPG

My, much simpler R Gruppe method.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...0/DSC_1522.JPG

Cool! And the below looks baller. Can you replace the cap after pulling it forward to cover the threaded hole? The cap is plastic/rubber, correct and I just peel it forward like?

Battery Charge Holder
 

Can I use the battery charger I had for a 996 in my 964?
The device you plug in the cigarette lighter on one end and in a power outlet on the other end.
Thanks

<NEVER MIND I FOUND THE ANSWER - THE PROBLEM IS THE STRAIN ON THE BOLTS> Pulled my engine yesterday, I have an engine stand that doesn't have the special Porsche/VW yoke. I know I can mount it without the special yoke but I heard that it could be unsafe...anyone know if that is true?

You should be able to if the cigarette lighter is wired up like the one in my 89. There is power (i.e., connection to battery) all the time at the lighter.

There is connection at all time.
I wasn't sure about voltage and being able to have the current go both ways (if that makes sense).

Thanks!

As long as the charger provides a higher voltage than the sitting battery (and it should) the current will flow and the battery will charge.

hi just built mine on a standerd engine stand no probs think you need the c clamp if you are spliting the cases

Is there any alternative to the stock alt/eng fan? Carbon fiber or other?? Seems that several people have seen theirs start to debond.

Only other option is aluminum which will weigh 1/3 more than the magnesium units. If kept free from paint chips the magnesium will last indefinitely

who sells the aluminum ones?

IIRC Vortek or something like that. I would not consider them myself.

I've saved quite a few threads on this. But just to confirm.

To change the gasket on the timing chain on the passenger side, I could do this without dropping the engine, just by removing the bumper, exhaust, and maybe distributor?

My driver side has gotten more leaky; before was just wet but now drips on the garage. Passenger side seems ok.

Thanks. Me neither, seeing now they are the same price as the OEM.

When people rebuilt their engines, do they put them back in with the lower engine covers? I don't know what they are called but I guess they are for heat.

Aluminum Valve Covers
 

Does this seem too good to be true? 200$ for both lower valve covers w/gaskets

http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...ver%20Set.aspx

Anyone ordered from them before?

Sunroof Rattle
 

My car is tight as a drum and has been up until I needed a sunroof seal. The shop replaced the seals (F&R) and gave me a nice intermittent vibration; not when cold only warmed up and only at low revs.
The seals failed and we replaced them again with me paying parts only. They failed again so ditto. They failed again, so I am now at about $750 for parts and labor and got a nasty vibration that drives me crazy.
The shop tells me the roof was out, all rails checked, all parts lubed, all tools accounted for but the vibration persists.

Other than getting a new shop (working on it), anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

My covers were off prior to my rebuild and remain off.

Seems like a very good deal. Like 50% of the price of a used set on eBay. Good find. They list a single lower cover at $94 and a single upper at $475!!!

Correction. The do offer the upper set for the same price. $198. Made by VTX performance.

This is what Im wondering, if these covers are any good? Or should I have my Mg covers media blasted and repainted?

Seems the Al is simply a better way to go since I won't have to deal with Mg corrosion.

On the topic of steering rack bushings; go oem or poly? I found some threads on here where people got poly, but no one ever really posted if it makes a difference. Threads are too old to bump again.

My workshop manual Volume 1 indexes a section 19 on engine cooling but I don't have that section. I go from 17 to 20. I'm looking for engine cooling oil line information.

What do you need to know? The PET can be downloaded from Porsche which will show you the different lines and general routing.

I have the PET, but I'm still interested to know if there is an ENGINE COOLING section 19 in the workshop manual.

Hey all,

I am trying to figure out the oil path in our cars. I want to know because when I removed my lower chain tensioner, there was a lot of crud down there. I wonder what is the lowest point of the oiling system? On the same idea, I drained 8 liters of oil when doing an oil change, even after letting the cooler get to 81 celcius. How many liters does the tank actually hold and why is it bad if its overfilled?

Thanks!

My copy also skips sections. Goes from 17 Engine Lubrication then the next is 20 Fuel Supply. I always assumed that they kept the missing sections in reserve when they first published is case they had to later add new pages.

Not exactly sure of your question although the lowest point in the system should be the oil pump pick up. Too much oil will flood the system and you will end up with too much oil flowing back into the cylinders and creating a mess. The PO of my C4 did this and there was oil oozing out of everywhere it could.

Off Topic

John I see you picked up a cayman R nice ride.

Yes, Turbo goes to the shipper today and the R takes it's place in the garage. Can't wait to get it on the track. It seems very focused out of the box. Not doing a single mod. I am however working on an engine management kit for the C4.

All the best with it. A good friend of mine picked up a cayman R full track prepped a few weeks back it will be a beast of a car to compete with and I will pedaling very hard to keep up with him and expend 10 times the energy. IIRC he is pumping 370HP with full motons.

Thanks. First run through some twisty back roads today. Beautiful

Why does going from 3.6 to 3.8 cost so much?

picture of oil line routing in wheel arch?
 

Having pulled my oil cooler and tank for some TLC, I have successfully reinstalled both, but the oil line routing within the wheel arch doesn't look or feel right. I think between the two large lines, the dipstick tube, and the smaller breather hose - I'm crisscrossed. I am requesting a picture or series of pictures that you may have on file that shows the layout that works best.

Cheers,

Peter

dont have the actual pic but this might help ..... might

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0ec0b1288f.jpg

off the web

whatever happened to babalouie

and just incase ... some warnings from the manual for the typical 964 user (overworked, long-haired, frowny people? ;) )

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c177bf3520.jpg

It doesn't. If you were to take a 3.6 liter apart, get rid of all the same parts and replace with new, and then reinstall and do the same run-in and testing, you'd have a 3.6 liter motor than runs really well and cost approx the same. It's just a lot of time and parts cost to build a new motor.

Relative to building a racing motor, building a street 3.8 seems very inexpensive, relative to what I have seen on rennlist...

i took this picture prior to disassembling my C4. I thought it would make it easier installing the lines later. It is a royal PITA to get right.

That picture helps. Thanks!

What is the sensor that I have pointed to with the red arrow?
It is located on the LHS of the engine bay, behind the heater blower.
(Not the O2 sensor).

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...af75c2db5d.jpg

T-Lock Fob Battery
 

Have a keyless entry from Tore. Started getting flaky and finally went kaput. Checked the wife's fob, which worked brilliantly. Lack of use, I suppose. New batteries for mine are in order.

Q: battery size for t-lock key fob
A: two 2016 batteries

Mine did the same. Thanks for detailing the battery size as I haven't opened the flaky remote yet.

Poli84. I don't have that plug in my car so I guess it is for the cruise control or for the tiptronic tranny. Do you have any of those two in in your car?

Thomas

It isn't a sensor it is a connector. The end with the white stripe should go to the wiring harness and the other end to the cruise control unit.

Thanks guys.
Yeah I have cruise so that makes sense. Problem solved and I can not worry that it was unplugged for a little while.

I have a silly little question. My 1971 911T Targa in Olive is currently being restored and I have ordered new lenses front and rear. The bezel is a "Pop Metal" and in very good shape except the reflective area around the bulbs. I could blast everything and spray paint it, but I'm pretty sure they should be more reflective inside. I am looking into hydrographics putting a chrome look. Any suggestions?

If I have posted to the wrong thread, I'm sorry. Please redirect me

judging by your 6-3 avatar and your question re a 911T ...
you're not in the wrong thread ... you're on the wrong forum all together
ie goto forum / aircooled / 911 (ie 2 above 964 where you are now)

You are on the wrong forum but I can help.

I think you mean "pot metal" die cast zink. Those parts were plated with a reflective surface. if you blast it you will eat into the smooth surface. Painting it won't be the same I would look into a platter like http://qualitymetalfinishing.net/ and see what they can do for you I know they do early parts for a friend of mine who restores early long nose cars.

Thank you

Would it be ok to use a 3/8 drive 22mm O2 socket to remove the nut on my HD's and then use it to reattach and hand tighten, and afterwards set to spec with my 1/2 drive torque wrench?

Meaning that hand tightening with the 3/8 drive will be enough to that the shock won't spin in place when I use just a regular socket on the 1/2 drive torque wrench.

I had to refurbish two shocks because someone used vice grips to hold the shock bodies. When it came time to refit I had a shop do the spring change. I just fitted the assembly. Easy.

Yes that should work fine. The size of the socket drive doesn't matter as long as you use the correct torque at the end.

here's a silly little answer to the question ..
"How many countries are shown as point of origin on chips inside the 964 Motronic Ecu (for those PCA pub nights ;) )

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f19a93850c.jpg

.... 4: Phillipines, Ireland, Portugal, Taiwan
(Intel, Phillips & Bosch also there but not with country name)

:icon107:

.. and yes Motronic is removed, checked, stock chip etc.. and only opened now for first time
for sale with OEM plugs for loom (ie removed from loom remaining in car) ... please pm for pics etc..

While swapping out my front wheels (with the AP design/Design 500 wheels which rub like crazy) I noticed that the struts has threads on them. Does this mean they are height adjustable? 92 C2 by the way.

Yes, your struts are height adjustable. All 964s have them. Note that you cannot lower the car much with them, they are mainly useful for fine tuning. Any major changes in ride height should be done by lowering springs.

I actually found a half open half drive socket on ebay so that will take care of things. :cheers:


I don't suppose there is an awesome 2015 solution to dropping rear control arm without jacking the engine (on new-ish mounts) or taking the heat exchangers off?

Why do you need to remove the rear control arm? Not sure why you would need need to remove the heat exchangers off.

You can remove the rear trailing arm without needing to remove anything more than the tire. There are three mounting points all are accessible however if they have not been removed getting the outer bolt loose could be a bit of work.

Perhaps I messed up the name after reading a bunch of threads. I'm swapping the springs on my HD's and in order to remove the rear shocks the DIY's I've seen say the rear 'control arm' needs to be dropped to give enough leverage to get the shock out. The problem seems to lie in the bolt that adjusts the toe gets bumped against the heat exchangers.

Or is this only a problem for the OEM shocks? I doubt I have aftermarket end links on the rear to make this easier.

Mr.Alex - No need to remove the control arm to change the shocks/springs. You will want to raise the rear up to give more room to work. The shocks are attached to the lower control arm by a single bolt. That bolt tends to be stubborn to remove. The best way I found is a long cheater pipe on a breaker bar. The higher the car, the easier it is. I did it all with mine on jack stands. A lift is not required. The top bolts are standard 8mm (13mm nuts). They are a bit challenging to reach when the engine is installed but it can be done if you remove the rear heater blower and air filter box.

So I have the dreaded "Xmas Tree" effect but only with the headlights on. I did a lot of searching reading about this problem and one of the recommended tests is to mist water around the dizzys and coils and look for sparking in the dark. Am I not supposed to see any sparks at all?

^+964...no need to remove the control arm to change shocks/springs. I used a high torque impact wrench to remove the stubborn bolt on one side. The other side required a lot of persuasion with the pipe/cheater bar/jack combo. I also used a liberal amount of thread penetrant. Good luck.

Wow this is great to hear, a bunch of past threads on here had opposite opinions. And I was just trying to follow DIY; steps 4-6 mention what I was referring too.
http://p-car.com/diy/sus/rear/rearsus.htm

Thanks guys, bought some PB blaster just in case.

Alex. Hit them with pb blaster first and reapply a few times. Let that stuff seep in for a few days if you are concerned that the bolts have been on too long...it'll make them more likely to crack loose.

The misting of the wires is to check for leaks in the wires and connectors. When I had the Xmas tree, it was simply bad coils, but misting wouldn't have shown me that.

Good luck tracking it down. I would try a new set of coils first, since it seems to be the usual suspect, but careful to not jus throw money at it. It gets expensive. Some free things to try are to take off all the grounds on the main wiring looms, clean and reinstall them. There are quite a few around the car. Take off each plug wire and connect a multimeter to each end and check to see each one reads at or very close to 3ohm.
Then inspect the wiring looms that you can access and check for cracked wires and shorts.
And since it's happening when your lights turn on, pop out the lights and check the wiring to the bulbs and trace back as best you can. I'm sure there are a few other free things to look into, but can't think of them off the top of my head.

In the end, when all else fails, after you have exhausted the easy stuff, pull out the clock and send it off to be resoldered...or if you have the expertise, check the soldered connections in there as well.

I don't believe that guide is for a 964. I have just removed struts front and rear and the anti-roll bars don't attach to the damper bodies. Also that link arm was not present.

That is for a 993 not a 964.

Great advice!! I'll use that for my roadmap. I should have been more specific, after misting I DO see sparking around both the coils and dizzys but it appears faint and I'm not sure if I should see any at all.

Indeed not a 964 DIY, which is great because the 964 seems simpler. Usually I would have a look before asking but it was pretty cold the past few weeks. While doing the SSK today I took a look at all the bolts and hit them with pb blaster. The HD's were put on something like three years ago so I don't think they should be on there too tight.
Thanks guys.

You shouldn't see any arcing sparks. Just means you have leaks. Pull all the boots and rub some dielectric grease inside them and reinstall and most again. It may be that simple, but if you are seeing sparks after that, it's new wires...sounds like you may be due for wires anyway? How old are they?

That's what I thought, I'll give that a shot and see how it goes. Not sure how old the wires are they look fairly new but I doubt that means anything.

Back with more silly questions. All bolts popped off without any strenuous effort, but the shop that had originally put the HD's on did not cut the slot for the line to pop in or out and it would seem either I have to do that OR, I could disconnect the line. And bleed once everything is finished.

I'm just not sure what to expect in terms of fluid pouring out, will it be a lot? Should I plug or clamp off once disconnected?

Yes, you can clamp and disconnect as long as you bleed after you are done. How much fluid will come out? Not much if its clamped. That's the method that I used. You can get inexpensive fuel line clamps at your local auto parts store.

Thanks for coaching me through this. This is the first car I wrenched on myself so its quite a learning experience. I bought small L-shaped hose pinching clamps but they seem to weak to clamp the rubber line. I'm considering just wrapping line in duct tape and using long nose vice grips, would that be ok? Seems doubtful it would damage the line.

Plus another crap move of the day was semi-stripping the strut tube, even though I was using the half open socket with a allen key, it seems like its on there too tight.

Sooo, I did the rears instead, which was easy except reaching over the lines behind the rear blower to undo the nuts.

Alex - You don't want to damage the brake lines with a vicegrip. You want a clamp similar to these

Don't worry about the struggles. We have all been there. That's how we learn to do things. :cheers:

Do you by any chance knob the diameter of the brake line, I suppose I could also just use a brake line plug?

The brake line fittings are M10 x 1.0. Yes a plug would work too.

Another option is to go to your local auto parts store and see what fuel line clamps they have. They may have something like this. You don't need a lot of clamping pressure. You are just fighting the head pressure of the brake fluid.

https://contentinfo.autozone.com/zne...25250/image/3/

I got those little pichers, but it would seem the rubber line is too stiff for them to constrict the line. It would seem as it if barely compresses it.

Been there and tried that. In the end I cut a channel on the old shock bracket to release the brake pipe and then fitted the new one. I can't recall how but it was possibly without cutting and the car is now in the UK so I can't check - sorry. The point I wanted to make is that it is possible to do without detaching the brake pipe fitting.

Might be time to consider new brake lines. Depending on the cars history will determine but if they are original it may be worth consideration. A lot of us should start considering inspection and replacement of our brake, clutch, oil and fuel lines.

Sounds like a job you should set aside a lot of time for. If the lines have not been opened you may find everything will take 3-4 times longer than you expect especially if this is your first time. You may consider a radiator hose clamp but use with caution. http://www.harborfreight.com/radiato...ers-99704.html

I got everything off, the strut off the hub and all nuts, but the top mount seems adhered to the body. I got the side closer to me loose but cant get the other side loose. I'm trying not to shimmy it too much so i dont break the studs up top. Any tips?

You mean the very top? It should have a rubber gasket that may be sticking. I think I left the bottom nut connected and pushed down on the wheel hub to loosen the top

BTW there is a DIY on the net for changing Bilsteins. I don't have the link on my iPhone.

Never mind John beat me to it.

The quick and the dead Anthony!

All this talk of suspension is reminding me that the hardest period of my Turbo 3.6 (car I put new Bilsteins on) sale is about to occur.

The car has arrived in England and is about to be registered with a new plate and titivation.

I imagine a lot of posts will ensue. Can't have the cake and the money...

All the best, it can't be easy but you have been down that road before and you did the right thing the first time I wouldn't second guess myself.

Now if I didn't have the opportunity to step into a GT4 order I might have been able to keep my sanity but something has to go. :(

I'm in lust with my R, which is actually bigger than my 964. The GT4 is a couple of grades above the R. You are a very fortunate man.

Awesome that you are doing all this Alex...

I'm starting C9O (connecticut 964 owners)...feel free to come up for the meets and drives. We will likely do it around the c and c schedule since there will be so many guys from the further reaches of the area in town. We will also likely do maintenance/tech days in places like...my garage...and anywhere else any member wants to do it...regardless, the point is, feel free to join in...all are welcome.

I'm assuming its the gasket, because with everything loose there is nothing else holding it. BUT, I used a variety of pry bars and as much pressure as I could apply without putting the studs in danger, but no go. I only got the once side loose, I can't seem to figure out a way to get the other side loose. I tried using a rubber mallet to knock some sense from the top in the trunk but no go.

So I put the strut back on the the wheel carrier and called it a day for now, thinking if anyone ever had same issue on here.

This is how I left it at the moment/


http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...psngjqcuii.jpg
Awesome, seems like its spreading quite a lot. I'm just disappointed in how much time its taking me so far with the weather getting better. I'm still waiting on the updates gear box bushings to drill for the short shifter, and now that I'm here I'l probably end up doing the ECS brake lines also.

Cool. Do a diy write up on the brake lines. I have never even had my calipers off...so to see the process before doing it would be great. I think I may be rebuilding my calipers in the coming months, so will likely do brake lines while in there.

Try a heat gun or hair drier. Also leave the outer or loose bolts in place but not tightened and start to pull it out towards you, eventually it will give. If that doesn't work replace the nuts onto the two studs that won't give so they are flush with the top of the stud. Using a comfortable but heavy (2-5 pound) mallet tap the top of the stud it will give way eventually the nut will protect the threads and top of the stud. Don't waste your time using a light tap hammer you need the force to break it free. I'm also a huge advocate for giving the entire wheel well a good cleaning before installing the new struts. Use a citrus degresser and some nylon brushes to work the road grime free, I usually remove the wheel liners and clean everything you will appreciate it in years to come.

It takes a lot of patience to attack these jobs the first time. Am I correct in saying you already have bilsteins on the car with factory springs?

John your making it difficult to say no. The car is white over black as well. After having the boxster I can only imagine what they are capable of. The R is one worth holding onto as well.

It's great having a near new Porsche to complement the old ones. The R is a great drive. The GT4 would be epic and probably cost you nothing in depreciation for a year or two considering the demand.

Christmas Tree Effect
 

Great news!! Replacing the coils did the trick, two days and no Xmas Tree Effect! A big thanks to Goughary and this forum for the info/advice!!

This is DIY page I used for guidance http://p-car.com/diy/sus/

Rock on. Glad that helped. Enjoy the spring...

Is their an alternative to the plastic intake stacks? Something that doesn't crack? That doesn't cost huge money? 90-100 dollars each to replace plastic that will likely crack again seems steep...

Anybody got a 3d printer?

:)

Probably been asked and answered already somewhere but how should I store my airbag once I've installed a momo wheel?

Throw it in a box and put it in storage. No special care needed, really.

So neither of my windows work; My passenger side DID work for a while when I first got the car, and then in the process of changing the switch it stopped working.

Now that both don't work, should I start troubleshooting from the relay (I believe it is relay 22, which also costs a lot given what it is)?

I also have the door panel on my driver's side off currently; I can't get the window to come down to check on the condition of the regulator or anything else. What I do see is in good condition, but is there a manual override or something to get the window down if the switch doesn't work?

Brakes question. My front pads, the insides on both side of the car have worn twice as fast as the outside pads...normal? Or what should I look for when I have the pads out? I'd prefer to not rebuild the calipers this year. Many other things to do...

Uneven brake pad wear is not normal, it least at that magnitude. What do your rotors look like? Are the pads free in the calipers? I have seen corrosion get behind the slide plats on the calipers and it prevents the pad from moving freely which would increase pad wear. If this is happening and you don't want to rebuild the calipers, you can take a file to the steel part of the pads and make them slightly smaller so they are free to move.

Thanks Rob. I was assuming it's the Pistons sticking...but strange that it's exactly the same on both inners. The rotors were new last brake job, which was 10-15k ago...regardless I'm on the wear indicators and they are whistling loudly, so at the very least, new pads have to go in now. The rotors have a ton of life left, though I haven't inspected the inside lip closely yet. Will do all this when temps jump over 50.

Anyone know a diy for caliper rebuild? Or a good service for rebuild and repaint/powder coat? Ha being them powder coated would be nice. They look like hell...

would 16x9 et 36 fit in the rear of a nb 964?

Alright, about to do my first valve adjustment and oil change this weekend and have a question before I even jack the car up regarding the oil :(

Correct me if I'm wrong but the engine needs to be stone cold before anything BUT I thought to do an oil change the engine is supposed to be at operating temp? So my question is do I :

A) Only drain the crankcase into a new clean container (guessing 4-5 quarts), continue with the valve adjustment then after everything is buttoned back up, put that 4-5 quarts of old oil back in, start the car, check to make sure I'm happy with the adjustment, run the car hot and then do the oil change

B) Run the car to operating temp, then put the car on jackstands and drain all the oil as if I was doing an oil change, just not refill until after the valve adjustment. I question this because the engine will now be hot and cool off over a period of 10-12 hours without any oil in it to help remove some heat, possibly damaging or warping internals that need the oil.

C) Do a complete oil change first, set the car on jackstands, let it cool 10-12 hours and then start the valve adjustment, keeping the fresh just drained oil in a new clean container to replace when the adjustment is good.

D) Some other way that I'm just not seeing or missing.

Not to sound cheap, but I'd hate to change the oil, only to drain all the good oil back out and toss it. We all know, a case of oil isn't something you just want to waste and throw out with 0 miles on it. Also I'm preparing for the worst case scenario of having to go back in after the adjustment in case I hear something I don't like after adjusting them since it's my first time doing it.

I'm assuming A) is what I want to do but I just want to confirm it with everyone here first.

It takes quite a while for the engine to cool. When I adjust my valves, I drain the oil when the engine is cold and accept that its not ideal. I then move onto the valve adjustment.

This is the option I would go with. If I'm adjusting the valves I will drain all the oil the night before and adjust valves in the morning. Also after refilling with new oil pull the DME relay or DME relay fuse and crank the engine until you see the oil pressure go up. Then put DME or fuse back in and start. Warm to operating temp and add oil to proper level.

Drain the oil and just let it cool down and do the adjustment. Fill up whenever you're ready. This is how it's done in the workshop manual. The engine hasn't have to bee boiling hot. Just enough sonthe thermostat has opened so over heating isn't an issue. The temp is already down before you have the car parked, up on jackstands, getting the tools etc.

Thomas

I had the stock ET55 with 23 mm spacers when I bought my car so it should work but maybe a bit tight depending on camber settings.

Rob you were right on the money... I did the pads today, the Pistons are fine. The slide pads are not allowing the pads to move freely. I got them working well enough, but will have to take the calipers out, take the rusty cap nuts out that hold the slide pads and clean everything up to really get things free.

Two questions:
First , what is the torque spec on the 19 mm caliper bolts to the upright? And

second, part number on the slide pad cap nut? Or where to buy them? I suppose it's something maybe I should just go to McMaster Carr for, but the head looks wide so was thinking maybe to stay oem

Do you meanthe bolts holding the caliper to the upright? If so it is always 85 nm.

The part number for the slide repair kit is on PET 602-01 & 603-00. The repair kit give you new slide plates and the respective screws.

Front = 964-351-959-00
Rear (C4 - 4 piston)) = 993-352-959-00
Rear (C2 early - 2 piston) = ?? <not listed in PET>

Thanks Rob - I appreciate it - I'd like to just buy the Cap head screws though - since the plates are stainless - they should be easily re-usable - but the screws look to me like I'll chew them up getting them out - so before doing that, I need to source the correct cap head bolts for all four calipers.

i read on the 928 forum where guys needed alot of heat to loosen the loctite 270 (high strength) in order to get those bolts to budge.

but if I have to spend hundreds to get the plates, just to get the capheads, then I'd be better off sending the calipers out for full rebuild and paint...

That's my understanding too. You need an acetylene torch to heat the screws. As for the cost, I checked Sunset Porsche, the slider kits are $37 each.

didnt sunset open an online ecommerce site? not that I don't want to call and talk to bob - but sometimes its just easier to shop from my phone with no one listening...

Yes, they have a website. Its http://www.porschepartshub.com/

so I called Sunset - they cant sell the Cap nuts for the caliper spring plates separately - 37 is a good price - but there are two per caliper and so thats 37 times 8....which when the spring plates are perfectly fine, it's silly to spend the money. so on to McMaster Carr for stainless cap nuts.

Question is - does anyone know the exact size of that metric cap nut? looks like an M8? and then length? its not listed in PET. Maybe I need to call Brembo....

How did you check on the pistons Goughary? Just press pedal and watch movement?


Side note; going to swap the steering rack bushings tomorrow; the work manual is somewhat confusing. Is the clamp that holds them considered the "Steering Gear to Crossmember" mount, which is 33ft lbs of torque. Or is it 17ft lbs?

Alex I pushed the Pistons back and they moved...so I didn't really check them. The seals look fine on first inspection. At some point I'll have to pull the seals out and do all that. But the clear thing here was that the pads were dead stuck on one side. Impossible to move or to remove from the caliper. I'm assuming there was room enough when the calipers were hot to get dirt and funk built up behind the spring plates, and as soon as they come out and all is clean, the pads will move freely. But for now, they are sticky. The spring plates aren't worn out, so I just need to take out the two pan head bolts that hold them in and clean them up and reinstall. But there's enough info on rennlist for me to know to not take those out and expect to reuse the bolts. Apparently most times they just don't wanna budge. So as soon as I find out what size, I'll order a bunch from McMaster Carr and get this done. Hopefully before April 19 C&C...but that's not looking likely at the moment.

IIRC 33Ft lbs is correct.

Sounds right, it is 41 Nm.

Was a bit premature to ask. The very last allen bolt decided to not want to come out, got all the others loose. Will probably need to drill it out as its starting to spin.


However my main problem at the moment is getting the OEM shift components back in after I decided not to drill the shift tunnel on my own. Any tips on getting the ball cup back on the shifter rod? Couldn't quite get on it with a C-clamp, and when I tried to use a jack per some other thread on the forum, it just started to lift up the front of the car off the jackstands.

To "press" the shifter ball joints together, I found the best way was to use some long reach channel lock pliers (similar to the photo below). I would place the cup over the ball and then use the pliers to squeeze it together. It was easy once I found this method.

https://www.channellock.com/data/def...al/460-341.png

cabriolet
 

should I be spraying a water sealer on my top?

About the shifter rod. I used my floor jack and just pressed the cup upwards.

Yes. I do it every few years. I've tried RAGG TOPP and the factory spray. I prefer the results of the factory spray. I buy three cans and put on 2-3 coats. The only hassle is you need to mask off the car's paint and rear window.

Porsche Cabriolet Top Protectant and Waterproofer
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...protectant.JPG

Cool, thanks!

I'l keep the channel lock pliers in mind, although the clearance between the ****er and the rod that goes to the rear is tight to grab on to. I'l try to use another jack from the middle, but when I used my low rise rack from the outside of the car it literally lifted the car up off the jackstands instead of it popping in.



Second quesiton; I have to replace my wheel carrier/upright in the near future. I'm looking through the parts diagram and there seem to be quite a few things to replace. I'm certainly replacing the bearing, but what about some of the other things, like the lock nut [~35$], spindle washer [~170$], wheel hub flange[~20$], etc.

The lock nut is use once. Since there is no outer lock nut (like the RS has), I wouldn't skimp there and just get a new oem one. Last thing you need is that nut backing out....

Hi all

Does anyone know the part number for the headlight adjusting screws. Mine seem bent, not sure how but they are.

The part number is 991-631-132-00 (M4 x 9)

Are the part numbers the same for front calipers between the c4 and the c2? I'm thinking to pick up a used set of C4 front calipers as a quick fix for the spring...

My understanding is the only difference in calipers is on the rears. But are the piston sizes on the c2 front calipers the same as c4 ?

Yes all the fronts are identical in size both use a 40/36 piston and same sized pad the only differences were the rears on the 90-91 C2's used a two piston 44mm per side vs a 4 piston 30/28 which was fitted to all the C4's and the 92-94 C2's.

The caliper design changed in 92 it went from having raised letters vs painted letters that said Porsche. I have a reconditioned and painted set of older style raised letter fronts if you are interested PM me.

Going to sound like beating a dead horse here, but placing order for all parts for wheel carrier swap, and am really curious if the spindle washer/ thrust washer/ shake proof washer is re-usable. Its the priciest part on the list and I can't find anything about it in the workshop manuals, nor any older threads.

Its the star shaped washer on top of the hub in this pic.
http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5528752c.jpg

Or part #14 here:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=401-05

I might be mistaken but part number 14 is the ABS toothed ring gear for the speed sensor. I am assuming this is the piece in the upper left hand corner of the photo you are asking about?

Not sure why it would need replacing but if it does I have some used parts floating around.

Well thats good to hear, nothing wrong with mine, just wondering if it was a 'replace' part like so many of the other parts in the workshop manual.

Part 14 isn't something you replace. Just put it back! I did replace the bolt 15 though, just because it felt like a good thing after 22 years, but you don't have to. The nut 16 must always be replaced though. Good luck!

The only time you should need to replace the tensioning ring is when you are replacing the wheel hub with a newer version. The newer version requires a smaller diameter spring washer that centers it on the hub and not on the bearing ring. Then you will also need to update the tensioning ring. Here's the TSB.

Does anyone know why they call it a tensioning ring?

Star thanks for this. I'm of to shop.

Drop links
 

What drop links do I replace mine with, I've seen everything from Delrin around £20, to Tarret around £200....

It's a C2, on B6/HR greens with RS anti roll bars front and rear..


Thanks.

This might sounds like I'm beating a dead horse here, but considering I don't have the tool kit to extract the front wheel bearing, or even the hub for that matter. Plus I'm still waiting on the bearing. Would it be a good idea if I just remove remove the hub along with the wheel carrier, and take it to a shop so they can separate the two, and then press in the new bushing, and hub at the same time?

That's probably your best bet. If you want to drive to jersey, I'll press the bearing for you.

Guys, my running lights (tail and front) are no longer working but only on the passenger side.
I checked the fuses (there's only 3 in the fuse box in the back, right?) and they seem fine.
Checked the bulbs and they seem fine as well.
Flashers and brake lights work fine.
Any idea?

Thanks!!

Really? Nobody?

Coleees Tabernac! sorry Brel ... can't help there as my sparky abilities are dangerous at best
http://www.porsche964.co.nz/accel_cable.html ... a few notes here lower down re pedal

What do you mean with "fuse box in the back"? All the fuses for the lights etc are in the big fuse box in the front under the carpet on the right hand side. Have you checked the fuses there to?

Did you check for corrosion where the bulb screws in? Mine had it and I kept blowing fuses/lights went out all the time.

Just wondering if its bad to remove the engine compartment sound deadening (the mat above the engine)? Mine doesn't sit right and I wonder if I should simply remove it and leave it without. Maybe add dynamat instead?


What do you guys think?

^ in the diy section (964) there is a 'quick fix for falling foam' - check it out
... else just remove - its too light and 'un-dense' to make any difference anyways
... looks great out too
ps - def NO on the dynamat - that's got bitumen inside; not for cramped, hot engine bays IMO

94 cab

I pulled the speakers out of the door card today because they are completely blown. To replace them with stock speakers. Only difference I noticed is the old speakers have two sets of wires hooked up and the new stock speakers don't have the extra set of pins for the second set of wires.
I'm assuming they go to the tweeters. Since I didn't hook them up and there is no sound out of the tweeters. Does that mean the old stock speaker had a crossover built into it and fed the tweeter? Or is there a separate crossover inside the door handle?
So I guess I'm asking is how can I get the tweets hooked up again

Thanks

Think I can use these to replace the cat shield U nuts and bolts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M6-6mm-Fairi...64a629&vxp=mtr

Bump

Are you sure you removed stock speakers I don't recall mine having two sets of wires going to a single speaker.

Very good question. I just assumed they were stock.
They looked really old and were crumbling.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f2002f624b.jpg



That's the new speaker with the original factory speaker plug on it. Then that pair of green wires. No place on the new speaker to slip them on. The old ones I removed had pins for those wires as well as the factory plug.
They also match the wires going to the tweeter plug.

Will order the to check my belts, but when the shop manual says to measure the tension in "scale increments", do they refer to the Kilogram scale on the tool? Also, any idea on the tension for the AC belt? Same as others or different?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...BL._SX522_.jpg

It would appear your car had different speakers at one time. I believe I see some cut metal in the picture.

You may consider removing the door card it is a bit of work but not that bad. I would assume those would be the speaker wires for the tweeter. Did you try to remove the tweeter and see if anything is attached?

Also do you have a picture of the old speaker and would you mind telling me what new speakers run I was considering installing the factory radio back in my C2 and my speakers are toast as well.


not sure that is all that necessary it isn't a timing belt and I believe they are referencing the P9201 tool which is different.

You don't want it too tight more than too loose. Usually a small push on the belt and a little give of about 1/4-3/8" is good.

how much hp can the stock tiptronic unit hold? did the 3.3/3.6 turbo come with tip transmissions?

I would venture to say not all that much maybe 300 tops although the America GS one off car has a custom tip transmission and it handles quite a bit. The turbos received a special G50/52 tranny which was beefed up to handle the extra power.

I'll look again but I did not see any mention of the tool being used in the manual. I am not sure if I have too much or too little tension hence why I was hoping for a more accurate reading than the calibrated thumb method. ;)

There is a TSB on this subject and mentions V-Belt Tester Special Tool 9574. It is similar to the tool you referenced above (which is what I have). I'll email it to you off line.

You are correct that the green wire pair is for the tweeter higher up on the door. How they get connected depends on when your car was made.

What year is your car?

On my '94, there was not a separate crossover under the door handle, rather it was built in to the back of the woofer. The crossover was a few large wraps of wire on the backside, a capacitor and some 0.150" tabs. These tabs were how the tweeter wires were connected. My original crumbling speakers were made by Nokia, yours looks different. The wiring diagrams in the workshop manual show the two different wiring configurations across the model years.

I got around the issue by replacing the tweeters as well and putting a crossover back in the space below the handle. The door card was cut for it, I just had to cut through the leather to get the wires through.

Cheers,
Michael

I should have taken a picture of the old speakers. But mine is a 94 as well and the way you described the speakers and the wire connection it sounds exactly like what I had. They were nokia's as well. So the tweeter was built in. The new ones are factory replacements I thought. I was unaware that the ones I threw out had a cross over built in. Guess I got the wrong speakers or if they even make the same nokia's anymore.

Let me look up the invoice from stoddard and see what part number I ordered and get back to you. They fit right in and the factory speaker harness plugged right in.

Thanks.

I took some pictures of my 90 door cards and I was surprised to see that the 90 had a black box under the handle. the wires you showed seem to be for the tweeters. But being a 94 I would assume they had the built in crossover mine is a 93 and I don't recall any crossover under the door handle. I can post pics tomorrow of the 90 if you need them.

Learn something new every day. :roflmao:

door speaker part number 964-645-504-00

correction this is the door speaker 964-645-505-00
previous part number i posted was for the rear cabriolet speakers

ecs tuning seems to have the ones with built in crossover

search part number 96464550300

I might as well post the pictures I took.

These are from a 90 C4

is that the stock crossover?

when I get a chance I will get the part number off it.

I have never seen a pic of the wire frame inside our shift boots, but will this one fit just the same? Have to get a boot for the new knob, but the past owner had just gotten a new boot, and I really don't want to cut into it.

p/n: 944-552-257-00-OEM

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...Each%2520%2520

Definitely silly question:

I have a brey-krause strut brace I'm looking to install. Is it as easy as undoing 2 nuts on each strut brace, sliding the strut brace on, and re-bolting the nuts? I shouldn't be afraid of having the car collapse on itself when I pull out the nuts that sit on top of the strut brace?

Yes, its really that simple...

That won't fit. Its a very simple wire that is shaped in a square to go in the console. Much like a coat hanger shaped in a square.

I'll take a picture when I get home, I took my boot appart to redo it. No way Porsche is getting $250 for a new one.

Part number 91164557500

Found my misplaced boot and see what you mean. Do you know a certain type wire that is malleable enough to just recreate the wire frame? It seems a bit thicker than the coat thin metal coat hangers I have lying around.

I'd try a hardware store...or perhaps a fabric store?

Is it a bad idea to remove the power steering belt to disable the power steering? My pump is leaking after me rebuilding it...sick of it!

Another car forum suggested piano wire bent into the same shape as the boot frame, so I'l try that.

Wouldn't this harm the steering rack eventually?



My silly question: anyone know where I can get the brake master cylinder (circular) o-ring? I don't see it listed separately.

Piano wire won't hold its shape. You want something more like a metal coat hanger.

You can get what's called metal tie wire in different gauges any most hardware or home improvement stores. Bends easy enough and will hold its shape.

How much does the RS perlon carpet weigh?

Don't know if yo mean the stock carpet or a version as Appbiz. But I think my carpet set from Appbiz was a little less than 4 kg.

Sorry, I meant the appbiz version.
Still debating bare metal or perlon...
Thank you Thomas

Mine wasn't applebitz but similar total weight was 6 pounds. It is a PITA to fit right and takes time.

I would much rather have that bare metal look but that is even more work to have smooth and nice...
Decisions, decisions, decisions

Add color to the inside... go bare metal!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...323626644.jpgc
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...or-rrrrdfg.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...95_4-kopie.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...3_11-kopie.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0429-kopie.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0...2_000227-6.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W..._4143905_o.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...4_rs_ngt_6.jpg

or a clean, carpeted center tunnel
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...z-64-shift.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...-64-shift2.jpg

I love the bare metal but it's soooooo much work

brakes
 

how many brake pad wear sensors on a C2? are the front and rear brake pads the same? are the damper shims mandatory?

4 total but they are different part numbers for front and rear. I am currently without sensors since it makes changing the pads so much easier. I have a new set of sensors sitting on the shelf if I ever decide to go with them.
Depends on model year. My '93 are the same front and rear. I think '91 or older models use a different rear pad. I think they are there to reduce noise, but are not mandatory.

thanks Hal! mine is a '91 and a porsche mechanic just told me my front and rear pads are the same so I thought I would check with the experts ;)

what is the difference between the 30mm and 28mm rear dampers?? (yes I know 2mm). can I use either?

Your mechanic could be correct as I'm not certain when the change took place or perhaps someone updated your calipers? You should be able to tell by looking to see if it's a one or two pot caliper.
PET shows that each two pot caliper uses a different size damper on the top pot versus the bottom pot.

The 964 C4's and late C2s use the same brake pads on the front and rear. The 1990-1991 C2's have two piston rear calipers and they use a different size pad.

As for the dampers, I don't use them at all but if you plan to, then you need to buy the correct sizes. Each is sized to your caliper pistons.

Everything is stock on my car so it sounds like i need to remove the old pads and measure the piston to make sure i order the proper parts. Last thing i want is squeaky brakes.

40/36 front
30/28 rear

thanks cobalt!

I think these wheels will fit, but I figure I should ask just to make sure.

Specs are as follows
18x8.5 et50 for the front
18x9.5 et50 rear

Yes, I'd recommend a 3mm spacer in the rear to make sure it clears the oil line.

What is the absolute Best sounding exhaust on a N.A. 3.6L 964? So NOT impressed with my current Fabspeed Maxflo. Want something with balls. Loved the Fister Stage 3 on a former 993 and the Sharky bypass on my 7-3.2 makes me smile. Big time.

Thanks for the input!!!

Mike

I'm quite pleased with my maxflo on dual tips.

I'm not sure how it sounds in person, but I want something along the lines of this. It has a nice growl but retains some of the aircooled purr.

I have stock headers. a dansk 100 cell cat with magnaflow 3"in/out muffler cup air box , g pipe and dansk 4" tip. Ask Flying tomato what he thinks. It is IMO one of the best sounding exhausts A bit loud but really sporty and very 964 sounding. IMO blows the sound of ^^^^^ away. Also does not drone like some can.

Any tips on how to reinstall the power steering pump console back on without tearing the new o-ring/cam seal?