RSR suspension installed. Too lower
#17
@vegas993
There are helper springs on the rear. I was looking thru all the pictures. I can confirm there are threads left on the front shocks. I worry there are much left on the rear shocks.
If that's the case, i will slam the front even more :P
There are helper springs on the rear. I was looking thru all the pictures. I can confirm there are threads left on the front shocks. I worry there are much left on the rear shocks.
If that's the case, i will slam the front even more :P
#19
The whole helper spring angle is really a moot point. The helper spring is there to keep the main spring seated when the suspension is at full droop AND you're not running much/any spring preload
If FlyinTomato is trying to raise the car, then he'll probably end up with a decent amount of spring preload, so in that case the helper spring is going to be fully compressed pretty much all the time.
FlyinTomato: Like I asked earlier, when you jack up the car, how far does the suspension extend before the tires leave the ground? This is when jacking from the the front or rear, not so much from the side since swaybars factor in and load up the unloaded tire because the opposite side is loaded up.
If FlyinTomato is trying to raise the car, then he'll probably end up with a decent amount of spring preload, so in that case the helper spring is going to be fully compressed pretty much all the time.
FlyinTomato: Like I asked earlier, when you jack up the car, how far does the suspension extend before the tires leave the ground? This is when jacking from the the front or rear, not so much from the side since swaybars factor in and load up the unloaded tire because the opposite side is loaded up.
#22
I have the same factory RSR suspension on my car. The dampers are designed to go low. But it is easy to adjust the ride height if you want to. I you want it higher and your´re out of threeads just get a new set of springs that are longer but with the same stifness (or softer/harder if you like). The whole point with this set up is that you can change the height and springs to fine tune the set up you want. The dampers can handle a range of spring rate but if you want to run much harder or softer springs you should re-valve the dampers to make them match the springs you want to use.
I'm running 160 Nm front and 200 Nm rear and I was told from an old Bilstein employee that used to work with the RSR suspension that this is the rain-setup. With dry weather and slicks they we're running more like 190-200 front and 230-240 in the rear.
I'm running 160 Nm front and 200 Nm rear and I was told from an old Bilstein employee that used to work with the RSR suspension that this is the rain-setup. With dry weather and slicks they we're running more like 190-200 front and 230-240 in the rear.
#23
Guy, I wish I can provide more info at the moment. I had the suspension installed last weekend but that's about all i can do with the time I had. ON A Saturday. Not much time left for me to do fine tuning, or adjusting. All will have to be done the saturday coming up. Will take a lot of pictures.
The springs are 8in tall both front and rear. 300lb and 400lb respectively. I can compress the helper springs using my fingers. As Vandit said, they are there to keep the springs from moving around when the suspension is up in the air.
@Vandit, I do not know how much droop there is. I will find this out.
@thomasC2, Glad you have the same setup. The damping and rebound of these shocks are awesome. did you have problem with the rear strut lower mounting hole being too close to the trailing Arm mounting hole? Mines was way too close, that the shock body touches the trailing arm. I ended up running a big spacer between the shock and trailing arm mounting hole. The lower mounting point is also monoball setup.
The springs are 8in tall both front and rear. 300lb and 400lb respectively. I can compress the helper springs using my fingers. As Vandit said, they are there to keep the springs from moving around when the suspension is up in the air.
@Vandit, I do not know how much droop there is. I will find this out.
@thomasC2, Glad you have the same setup. The damping and rebound of these shocks are awesome. did you have problem with the rear strut lower mounting hole being too close to the trailing Arm mounting hole? Mines was way too close, that the shock body touches the trailing arm. I ended up running a big spacer between the shock and trailing arm mounting hole. The lower mounting point is also monoball setup.
#24
Yes, at the lower rear point I had to use 3-4 washers to get the clearence. But I agree about the damping. If you just have some speed they work great even for longer travels. I've been driving my car to all the trackdays and once a year down to trackdays in Germany and Belgium. And on track you can really push them, and the behaviour is flawless and predictable.
Thomas
Thomas
#25
I got the measurement back.
LF 95.5mm RF 99.5mm
LR 199mm RR 200mm
this is a lot lower than the RS F125mm, R258mm.
There isnt any visible threads above the collars on the rear shock. To raise the rear, I will need to buy longer springs as Thomas has suggested.
The spings are 8in now. looking to buy these for the rear http://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-09002250400
Is there other options I have on getting my desire ride height?
I used the following measurement points and method.
LF 95.5mm RF 99.5mm
LR 199mm RR 200mm
this is a lot lower than the RS F125mm, R258mm.
There isnt any visible threads above the collars on the rear shock. To raise the rear, I will need to buy longer springs as Thomas has suggested.
The spings are 8in now. looking to buy these for the rear http://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-09002250400
Is there other options I have on getting my desire ride height?
I used the following measurement points and method.
#26
FlyinTomato: Like I asked earlier, when you jack up the car, how far does the suspension extend before the tires leave the ground? This is when jacking from the the front or rear, not so much from the side since swaybars factor in and load up the unloaded tire because the opposite side is loaded up.
There isn't much droop when the car is jacked up. that's from eye balling. What's the best way to measure this? Measuring the fender lip to tire?
#28
I will have to check again on that one. I kept forgetting that.
Say I have to get longer springs. They are again now at 8". ride height is 200mm, 58mm less than desired.
Would 9" springs be good enough? Or i can use longer and stiff tender springs?
Say I have to get longer springs. They are again now at 8". ride height is 200mm, 58mm less than desired.
Would 9" springs be good enough? Or i can use longer and stiff tender springs?