Convertible roof stuck in between
#1
Convertible roof stuck in between
Hey guys,
got a problem here...my roof..
I closed it a few hours ago, did not notice anything went wrong.
Tried to open it now. Driver side lock opens and roof wants to move but pass side lock does nothing. If I close the roof again, driver side locks normal, pass side makes a clicking noise.
If I try the manual way, driver side opens, pass side does not respond at all, feels like i do not get a hold at the bolt...
I think the rest works (the motors in the back and the gear), since roof wants to move even on pass side, have to stop opening after an inch, else I think Im risking a broken B-pillar.
Any ideas? Why does even manual not work?
Cheers
got a problem here...my roof..
I closed it a few hours ago, did not notice anything went wrong.
Tried to open it now. Driver side lock opens and roof wants to move but pass side lock does nothing. If I close the roof again, driver side locks normal, pass side makes a clicking noise.
If I try the manual way, driver side opens, pass side does not respond at all, feels like i do not get a hold at the bolt...
I think the rest works (the motors in the back and the gear), since roof wants to move even on pass side, have to stop opening after an inch, else I think Im risking a broken B-pillar.
Any ideas? Why does even manual not work?
Cheers
#2
are you on level ground? Find a nice level spot so the body isn't kinked odd. Then loosen the back bolts on the rear transmission so you don't risk forcing the top in any way. It's also possible that you have run the rear gear out- meaning it's only a half a circle and if you continue to spin the motors, you'll reach the end of the gear and then it's not connected to the drive inside it.
Then I'd try the manual part again. Turn the locking motors by hand. It will take a while to spin the lock all the way to open.
Then I'd try the manual part again. Turn the locking motors by hand. It will take a while to spin the lock all the way to open.
#3
yeah im leveled...
Problem is: It feels like Im not movin anything by manual unlock. Driver side opens slowly. But pass not at all....Is there any possible fault where manual unlock does not work? Maybe Im just not at the bolt ...my cover is a bit loose. But I tried a hundred times...
Problem is: It feels like Im not movin anything by manual unlock. Driver side opens slowly. But pass not at all....Is there any possible fault where manual unlock does not work? Maybe Im just not at the bolt ...my cover is a bit loose. But I tried a hundred times...
#4
Puzzling...
I found that thread in the 993 section:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-replace.html
Maybe you can access it with the roof closed.
Lock-motor number is 911 624 056 03.
For the electric actuation, you may have a look at the top of the B-post when inside the car: the harness for the locks pass there.
I've noticed that on mine the wires are pretty brittle (although the 2 motor should be fed by the same wire, you never know)
I found that thread in the 993 section:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-replace.html
Maybe you can access it with the roof closed.
Lock-motor number is 911 624 056 03.
For the electric actuation, you may have a look at the top of the B-post when inside the car: the harness for the locks pass there.
I've noticed that on mine the wires are pretty brittle (although the 2 motor should be fed by the same wire, you never know)
#5
the motors have their own connection at each motor, but they could be connected further downstream. I have only had the immediate area by the motors open. If the gear is broken enough that the manual screwdriver option isn't doing anything, you'll have to pull off the leather cover for the motors, and remove the motors. 4 bolts, plus a few wire ties. Be careful with the leather/vinyl cover thing though. There are body clips holding it in, and the plastic on the cover might be brittle. It's $500 to get a new cover, so pull the clips cautiously
#6
Thank you for your help. I pulled the motor and opened it. The brass gear is shot, one tooth broke away, 2 more are severely worn.
New motor quote is about 800$ here in Germany. Vertex sells the cog only, but does not ship to Germany. I found a steel one in german eBay, doe that look right?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/PORSCHE-911-9...-/290450531782
still expensive as sh*t. and is it really good to put steel in there? the brass thingy might be meant to fail..
worn gear:
New motor quote is about 800$ here in Germany. Vertex sells the cog only, but does not ship to Germany. I found a steel one in german eBay, doe that look right?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/PORSCHE-911-9...-/290450531782
still expensive as sh*t. and is it really good to put steel in there? the brass thingy might be meant to fail..
worn gear:
Last edited by max3.2; 07-11-2013 at 09:56 AM.
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#8
#9
Loren, thanks, but my electronics are fine...motor started spinning through due to the worn gear, so the locking mechanism did not finish.
As for the greae, just a little bit in there.
Still looking for the gear...hawk, you said you got yours from vertex (other thread) - are we talking about the same gear? is it brass? how the quality / fit?
As for the greae, just a little bit in there.
Still looking for the gear...hawk, you said you got yours from vertex (other thread) - are we talking about the same gear? is it brass? how the quality / fit?
#10
yes- we're talking the same thing. Fit is great,quality seems adequate for the use. A tad expensive, IMO, but what isn't on these cars?!? The picture on their site is crappy. The actual gear is much better. I paid a guy $20 to drill the hole, and tap a 3mm thread same as the oem
#12
in picture only. Other people concur- the new part shipped does not have the hole. Some have said the pie-shaped piece that goes on top fits tight enough, but for me, I'd just as soon have the hole drilled/tapped
#13
Ok I found a way around a new gear anyway. Probably not forever but it works for now...
If you watch the mechanism, you will see that even for a full cycle it does only use 3/4 of the cog.
So I seperated gear and shaft, drilled a new hole, tapped it, and pushed the gear back on. Rotated approx. 3 teeth ccw. Put new grease is.
Works perfect
Next is a roof alingment. Dont want to have it brake again.
Cheers
If you watch the mechanism, you will see that even for a full cycle it does only use 3/4 of the cog.
So I seperated gear and shaft, drilled a new hole, tapped it, and pushed the gear back on. Rotated approx. 3 teeth ccw. Put new grease is.
Works perfect
Next is a roof alingment. Dont want to have it brake again.
Cheers