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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 07:17 AM
  #1  
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Default Rust miroblisters

Guys, have found two new micro patches of rust on the 964 that were not there previously. Both tiny, around 5millimetres diameter. My question is should I leave them alone or try to treat them to slow it down? No point taking it to be patched up as it will need a complete respray at some point soon and since I am already doing an engine rebuild this year it will have to wait till next year.

So right now I am only really interested in slowing it as much as possible to minimise the work later on. Should I :

1.just expose them and treat?
2.just inject with some rust inhibitor?

One is in the classic place, the bonnet line around one inch from the front windscreen.. this would be hard to properly expose as undoubtedly there is more going on underneath which would require wing removal to treat properly.. the other is just peeking out close to the front wheelarch where the front bumper meets the bodywork.

I'll get pick up later.. both very minor right now and am worried that digging into them may make them look much more visible..
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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I would be tempted to ask the concours forum this question. My thought is the answer depends on how long you think it will be before the respray? If its just a few months, then leave it alone. If its just sometime in the future, then I would try to slow the rust as much as you can.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
I would be tempted to ask the concours forum this question. My thought is the answer depends on how long you think it will be before the respray? If its just a few months, then leave it alone. If its just sometime in the future, then I would try to slow the rust as much as you can.
Thanks Rob... I'll do as you suggest and re-post... the paint is at the very least 12 months away...
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:57 AM
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it all depends on if your car is also garaged or not and if it is used all year round ? as road salts in winter and with grit tucks spraying you as they pass will accelerate any rust very quickly. I would be tempted to try to peel back the windscreen rubber and see what is lurking behind that. I had similar issues and ended up going the full re spray route. I do think thought that my car could have gone for another five years with the rust I had. The body was solid and the rust was just around an area covering a size of a coin and I was aware of the rust five years ago and left it. I had nightmares that once I peel the paint back to metal and remove fenders/wings rust would be everywhere. This was not the case as the wings are bonded on strong from the factory and unless they have been off before and not put back on properly resealed then no rust should spread to the inside of the wings.

Rust is a funny topic some people just want it gone and hate to do a quick fix with chemicals. I think their is a lot of anti rust stuff available on the market today. Rust needs oxygen and water to spread you stop one of those getting to the rusted area you have slowed the rust down or even stopped it.

I had a van that had a rust spot on the roof I used por -15 and the rust stopped dead in its tracks for over five years.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CBR786
it all depends on if your car is also garaged or not and if it is used all year round ? as road salts in winter and with grit tucks spraying you as they pass will accelerate any rust very quickly. I would be tempted to try to peel back the windscreen rubber and see what is lurking behind that.
Unfortunately it is not under the windscreen rubber.. it is just peaking out of the gap where the wing meets the body, an inch down from the windscreen, where the black seal runs.. the exposed bit can be exposed but under that would require removal of the wing.

Car is kept outside in summer and some of winter, rarely used when the salt is present.
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 10:07 AM
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Go and see Tom Martin at LaMass - he has just done some delicate work for me of the same ilk - Chalfont St Peter - a 35 minute drive for you.
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rodders
Go and see Tom Martin at LaMass - he has just done some delicate work for me of the same ilk - Chalfont St Peter - a 35 minute drive for you.
Thanks
I know Tom well but I don't want to spend any money at this stage as I will be doing a full respray in 12-16 months in any case...
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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+1 for POR15

Yes if there is rust in the seam between wing and scuttle you won't do anything meaningful to it until it is exposed and cut out..but it might make you feel better to grind the bubble away with a dremmel, a couple of coats of POR 15 and then halfords mixed to paint code touch up paint. Its not perfect but will look better than rust.

I do this on other cars I have and the POR15 is amazing stuff, it sticks so hard its the best way of cutting off the oxygen to the rust...get the pack of small cans because its hard to keep a big can fresh and liquid. And don't get it on your skin, it does NOT come off!
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Old Jun 20, 2013 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jack.pe

One is in the classic place, the bonnet line around one inch from the front windscreen.. this would be hard to properly expose as undoubtedly there is more going on underneath which would require wing removal to treat properly.. the other is just peeking out close to the front wheelarch where the front bumper meets the bodywork.
I have them in exactly the same place! I don't want to spend large amounts on a full body resto yet because I've recently spent far too much on other parts that needed doing. If the POR15 works as suggested I might give that a go.
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 07:44 AM
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If it were me I'd have Tom do a spot repair asap. When you come to respray the car the rot will need to be repaired anyway so you're only paying a little extra to paint the scuttle another time.
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 02:12 PM
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I'd rather have it look bad for a while by picking it out and putting some rust converter/preventer until I can have it properly repaired, than leaving it as is and allowing the rust to progress underneath.
Done that on a front fender bubble and it turned out that it saved my bacon, because the fender was repairable without cutting/welding, or replacement. Same goes on right now on a rear fender repair. Looks bad, but has not progressed at all over last winter (driven daily).
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