Tips for installing KW V3s?
#1
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My backordered KW V3s arrived just in time for Father's Day (whoohoo!). Any tips on the install and initial setup? Do I need any special tools to get the job done? Can I reuse all the nuts and bolts or do I need to make a quick Pelican order?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
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Some of the suspension fasteners are one time use; IIRC the ones at the front lower strut mount may be like this. I got new ones from McMaster Carr instead of P-parts.
Have plenty of anti-sieze on hand, and make sure to support the rear arms when you take the old dampers off.
I found that to get legit ride height measurements post-install it was helpful to have platforms made of doubled-up sections of 2x12 under each wheel; it was simply too low to measure otherwise.
Have plenty of anti-sieze on hand, and make sure to support the rear arms when you take the old dampers off.
I found that to get legit ride height measurements post-install it was helpful to have platforms made of doubled-up sections of 2x12 under each wheel; it was simply too low to measure otherwise.
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Check the shock mounts are not too worn, mine were fine but some people change theirs at the same time.
Also careful with the little plastic fasteners for wires and so on at the front, they are pretty delicate, can be reused but i ended up cutting out the metal flanges they were mounted on so I could push the pins out and reuse them..
Also careful with the little plastic fasteners for wires and so on at the front, they are pretty delicate, can be reused but i ended up cutting out the metal flanges they were mounted on so I could push the pins out and reuse them..
#4
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The brake hard lines can bend and break pretty easy, definitely load them up with anti seize before trying to loosen them.
#5
Nordschleife Master
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Having a thin and curved set of needle nose pliers goes a long way toward transferring the plastic hardware from the old struts to the new struts.
All those plastic pieces have a cylinder-like push pin through the center that locks them in place. Use the pliers to push out the pin a bit and the pieces come of easily.
If this is the first time the lower rear shock bolts have been removed, be sure to prepare for the tightest bolts of your life.
All those plastic pieces have a cylinder-like push pin through the center that locks them in place. Use the pliers to push out the pin a bit and the pieces come of easily.
If this is the first time the lower rear shock bolts have been removed, be sure to prepare for the tightest bolts of your life.
#6
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I remember I went to a shop to loosen the lower rear shock bolts then tighten it again. Shop went through three progressively bigger impact guns before it broke free.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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My 340ft/lb electric impact was able to loosen one of them, but the other wouldn't budge even after like 10mins of sitting on it w/ the impact. I ended up putting the breaker bar on the fastener, put the floor jack under the breaker bar handle, then I firmly held the socket on the fastener while my wife slowly started to raise the jack. That finally got it loose.
#10
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My 340ft/lb electric impact was able to loosen one of them, but the other wouldn't budge even after like 10mins of sitting on it w/ the impact. I ended up putting the breaker bar on the fastener, put the floor jack under the breaker bar handle, then I firmly held the socket on the fastener while my wife slowly started to raise the jack. That finally got it loose.
#11
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HalV,
It cost me $20 to get a local shop to do this for me. Just have them loosen it, then tighten back up, but not too much, then gently drive home. I can't remember the full torque spec but you will want to do that upon re-install. Don't use breaker bars, and jacks, etc, if you can avoid it (Kudos to Vandit for making that work).
It cost me $20 to get a local shop to do this for me. Just have them loosen it, then tighten back up, but not too much, then gently drive home. I can't remember the full torque spec but you will want to do that upon re-install. Don't use breaker bars, and jacks, etc, if you can avoid it (Kudos to Vandit for making that work).
#13
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I'll try to break it loose before messing with the top end. If not, I'll run to a nearby garage. I've got a good high end torque wrench that will work for torquing to 147 ft/lbs.
#14
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Halv, read here maybe a bit of help:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
On the second tread start on page 3 at post 45, this may be helful. You will also need this tool:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
On the second tread start on page 3 at post 45, this may be helful. You will also need this tool:
#15
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Halv, read here maybe a bit of help:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
On the second tread start on page 3 at post 45, this may be helful. You will also need this tool:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=93081
On the second tread start on page 3 at post 45, this may be helful. You will also need this tool: