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Tips for installing KW V3s?

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Old 06-14-2013, 03:15 PM
  #16  
robt964
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You won't need that special tool. I managed with a regular crank end ring spanner to hold the recessed nut.
Old 06-14-2013, 03:38 PM
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VR6-er
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Originally Posted by robt964
You won't need that special tool. I managed with a regular crank end ring spanner to hold the recessed nut.
I used a regular ring spanner too. Just make sure everything gets a good dousing in release fluid a couple of times before hand and it makes things easier.
Old 06-14-2013, 04:02 PM
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I used a spring compressor taking the old strut apart. You can borrow one from your local Autozone store with a refundable deposit.
Old 06-14-2013, 04:27 PM
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HalV
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I made a mistake and deleted the content of this post.

Last edited by HalV; 06-16-2013 at 01:26 PM.
Old 06-14-2013, 04:32 PM
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Vandit
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Yes, you definitely need a spring compressor to dismantle the stock assembly to remove the top hats. That **** is dangerous if the compressor slips and releases all the energy in the spring. It could turn into a large projectile in your garage.

You may not need the spring compressor on the coilovers since the spring length on these kits tends to be shorter and the threaded bodies means you can remove preload from the spring as you install the top mount on the KWs.
Old 06-14-2013, 04:40 PM
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HalV
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For reference, here are the instructions on installation. Note: These are instructions for the V1s since the link on KW's site was broken for the V3s.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:42 PM
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HalV
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Originally Posted by Vandit
Yes, you definitely need a spring compressor to dismantle the stock assembly to remove the top hats. That **** is dangerous if the compressor slips and releases all the energy in the spring. It could turn into a large projectile in your garage.

You may not need the spring compressor on the coilovers since the spring length on these kits tends to be shorter and the threaded bodies means you can remove preload from the spring as you install the top mount on the KWs.
Thanks Vandit, I was wondering if I could use this method.
Old 06-14-2013, 04:44 PM
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Vandit
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Probably on the KW assemblies. Definitely not on the disassembly of the OEM assemblies.
Old 06-14-2013, 05:33 PM
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HalV
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Originally Posted by Vandit
Probably on the KW assemblies. Definitely not on the disassembly of the OEM assemblies.
Understood...thanks again! I hope to get these installed this weekend.
Old 06-14-2013, 07:29 PM
  #25  
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Let us know how it's going. Pics can be a hassle but if you can snap a few shots, we'd love to see them!
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:24 AM
  #26  
jack.pe
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Originally Posted by HalV
Understood...thanks again! I hope to get these installed this weekend.
I used a mains electric impact gun on the top nuts and did not even need the ring spanner... in any case an impact wrench will make that job a lot easier, took me 2 mins each... i'm sure I would have been mucking about for hours otherwise.
Also the tough ones will be on the original shocks, since you are going to chuck these you can even just grab the shaft with some mole grips to stop it rotating... obviously not a method to use with the KWs!! but i'm sure the nuts on those will be relatively easy to undo.

The impact wrench will also be handy for the rear bottom shock mounting bolts.. I would definitely buy one.. they're pretty cheap.. £70

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CLARKE...-/140996472377
Old 06-15-2013, 06:32 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Vegas993
The brake hard lines can bend and break pretty easy, definitely load them up with anti seize before trying to loosen them.
Or another much easier method is not to undo the brake lines... if you do you will also have to get the system bled and you would need a pressure bleeder for that. I just cut some slots in the flanges, removed the old shocks without disturbing the brake lines... and then cut a slot in the new mounts and slipped the brake lines back in, they have retaining springs in any case so won't move, having a closed mount is overkill on this.. I did not really take enough pics and mine were bilsteins but this might help you.. post 35

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...olution-3.html
Old 06-15-2013, 08:14 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jack.pe
Or another much easier method is not to undo the brake lines... if you do you will also have to get the system bled and you would need a pressure bleeder for that. I just cut some slots in the flanges, removed the old shocks without disturbing the brake lines... and then cut a slot in the new mounts and slipped the brake lines back in, they have retaining springs in any case so won't move, having a closed mount is overkill on this.. I did not really take enough pics and mine were bilsteins but this might help you.. post 35

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...olution-3.html
This is how I did my fronts, you don't even have to cut the KW because they come slotted.
Old 06-16-2013, 01:25 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HalV

Also, it looks like I don't use the top KW purple perch for the rears?
I'm almost done with the fronts. Does anyone know the answer to the question above for the rears?

Thanks!
Old 06-16-2013, 05:19 PM
  #30  
HalV
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Pchar responded in another thread. The purple hat must go on as well. Thanks! BTW, I got the bottom bolts loose. The one with the use of my electric impact wrench and the other using Vandit's method of breaker bar and jack. My son had fun helping with that one!


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