Tips for installing KW V3s?
#17
#20
Nordschleife Master
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Yes, you definitely need a spring compressor to dismantle the stock assembly to remove the top hats. That **** is dangerous if the compressor slips and releases all the energy in the spring. It could turn into a large projectile in your garage.
You may not need the spring compressor on the coilovers since the spring length on these kits tends to be shorter and the threaded bodies means you can remove preload from the spring as you install the top mount on the KWs.
You may not need the spring compressor on the coilovers since the spring length on these kits tends to be shorter and the threaded bodies means you can remove preload from the spring as you install the top mount on the KWs.
#21
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For reference, here are the instructions on installation. Note: These are instructions for the V1s since the link on KW's site was broken for the V3s.
#22
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Yes, you definitely need a spring compressor to dismantle the stock assembly to remove the top hats. That **** is dangerous if the compressor slips and releases all the energy in the spring. It could turn into a large projectile in your garage.
You may not need the spring compressor on the coilovers since the spring length on these kits tends to be shorter and the threaded bodies means you can remove preload from the spring as you install the top mount on the KWs.
You may not need the spring compressor on the coilovers since the spring length on these kits tends to be shorter and the threaded bodies means you can remove preload from the spring as you install the top mount on the KWs.
#24
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#25
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Let us know how it's going. Pics can be a hassle but if you can snap a few shots, we'd love to see them!
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#26
Three Wheelin'
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I used a mains electric impact gun on the top nuts and did not even need the ring spanner... in any case an impact wrench will make that job a lot easier, took me 2 mins each... i'm sure I would have been mucking about for hours otherwise.
Also the tough ones will be on the original shocks, since you are going to chuck these you can even just grab the shaft with some mole grips to stop it rotating... obviously not a method to use with the KWs!! but i'm sure the nuts on those will be relatively easy to undo.
The impact wrench will also be handy for the rear bottom shock mounting bolts.. I would definitely buy one.. they're pretty cheap.. £70
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CLARKE...-/140996472377
Also the tough ones will be on the original shocks, since you are going to chuck these you can even just grab the shaft with some mole grips to stop it rotating... obviously not a method to use with the KWs!! but i'm sure the nuts on those will be relatively easy to undo.
The impact wrench will also be handy for the rear bottom shock mounting bolts.. I would definitely buy one.. they're pretty cheap.. £70
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CLARKE...-/140996472377
#27
Three Wheelin'
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https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...olution-3.html
#28
Three Wheelin'
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Or another much easier method is not to undo the brake lines... if you do you will also have to get the system bled and you would need a pressure bleeder for that. I just cut some slots in the flanges, removed the old shocks without disturbing the brake lines... and then cut a slot in the new mounts and slipped the brake lines back in, they have retaining springs in any case so won't move, having a closed mount is overkill on this.. I did not really take enough pics and mine were bilsteins but this might help you.. post 35
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...olution-3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...olution-3.html
#29
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#30
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Pchar responded in another thread. The purple hat must go on as well. Thanks! BTW, I got the bottom bolts loose. The one with the use of my electric impact wrench and the other using Vandit's method of breaker bar and jack. My son had fun helping with that one!