removing weight from Engine/ boot area
#16
Three Wheelin'
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I think all the little savings would had up at the end ....
Be interested to hear and see pictures of the electric power steering .
Jack,
I suppose you removed the rear wiper & motor and rear folding seats, this lot is about 7 kg ,
what about the rear screen .
#17
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The sound pad weighs at least 4 lbs. My son removed it and weighed the pieces. I should have his data somewhere. The stereo, amp and speakers are easily removed as is the window washer reservoir, the truck carpet and the spare tire and inflator. A G-pipe will improve the sound and lighten up the car as well. Replacing the seats will reduce quite a few pounds, but replacing them is expensive. Not sure of the total savings when you factor in tires, but D-90 wheels are lighter than Cup I's.
#18
#19
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After a day on the big slicks, I would get to the motel in pain, not sleep well and be stiff the next morning; add this to on-track heat and fatigue and I promise the Cup steering has made quite a difference in my performance.
It also works very well. I miss no steering feel at all. If one sells his RSA rack, cost recovery is almost 50%...and hearing the RSR pump spin up and down with the ignition is 100% cool!!!
#21
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On our more advanced 9m Race engine conversions an electric pump power steering conversion is absolutely essential because the engines accelerate so fast that the fluid in the mechanical pump aerates and throws itself all over the engine bay. We have a similar problem with the RS single pulley drive as the belts turn inside out because they do not have the drive capacity to accelerate the alternator/fan at the same rate as the engine; a 9m Racing poly-belt drive fixes that one.
Save weight from engine? Fit a 993 crank, rods & pistons - much lighter than 964 and reducing weight from reciprocal parts of the engine is worth 6x taking weight from the flywheel. Talking about flywheels, with a Motec kit you could run a 9m Superlight RS flywheel instead of the stock RS, that shaves another 2lb off and improves acceleration noticeably. Will only work with Motec, there is no chance of getting a stock Motronic to idle with a Superlight.
#22
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On our more advanced 9m Race engine conversions an electric pump power steering conversion is absolutely essential because the engines accelerate so fast that the fluid in the mechanical pump aerates and throws itself all over the engine bay. We have a similar problem with the RS single pulley drive as the belts turn inside out because they do not have the drive capacity to accelerate the alternator/fan at the same rate as the engine; a 9m Racing poly-belt drive fixes that one.
Save weight from engine? Fit a 993 crank, rods & pistons - much lighter than 964 and reducing weight from reciprocal parts of the engine is worth 6x taking weight from the flywheel. Talking about flywheels, with a Motec kit you could run a 9m Superlight RS flywheel instead of the stock RS, that shaves another 2lb off and improves acceleration noticeably. Will only work with Motec, there is no chance of getting a stock Motronic to idle with a Superlight.
Save weight from engine? Fit a 993 crank, rods & pistons - much lighter than 964 and reducing weight from reciprocal parts of the engine is worth 6x taking weight from the flywheel. Talking about flywheels, with a Motec kit you could run a 9m Superlight RS flywheel instead of the stock RS, that shaves another 2lb off and improves acceleration noticeably. Will only work with Motec, there is no chance of getting a stock Motronic to idle with a Superlight.
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My steering is unassisted, old fashion spinach power
#24
Race Car
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I will try and track down some pics. There have been a couple of threads on the 993 forum.
Costs:
Pump: Between 750 and 1200
Mount and lines: ~ $300
Wiring: ~$25 (Big fuse etc)
Labor: (if you cannot do yourself) unsure probably around 5 hours all in. (not really sure I did mine over a number of different sessions)
All in: between $1000 and $2000 depending on who does the work.
Costs:
Pump: Between 750 and 1200
Mount and lines: ~ $300
Wiring: ~$25 (Big fuse etc)
Labor: (if you cannot do yourself) unsure probably around 5 hours all in. (not really sure I did mine over a number of different sessions)
All in: between $1000 and $2000 depending on who does the work.
#25
Burning Brakes
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But I'm a 'svelte' 6'1" 180lbs (which is my way of saying that I'm somewhat tall and skinny - aka wimpy), and I don't find the manual rack to be all that difficult, or require that much muscle, when on the track.
Parking lots are a different situation altogether, where some power assist would be appreciated.
Maybe ignorance is bliss, but I think that the tactile feel of the manual steering is amazingly direct on the track. A perfect compliment to our light front ends. In my eyes, it's hard to imagine it being any better.
#27
Three Wheelin'
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Save weight from engine? Fit a 993 crank, rods & pistons - much lighter than 964 and reducing weight from reciprocal parts of the engine is worth 6x taking weight from the flywheel. Talking about flywheels, with a Motec kit you could run a 9m Superlight RS flywheel instead of the stock RS, that shaves another 2lb off and improves acceleration noticeably. Will only work with Motec, there is no chance of getting a stock Motronic to idle with a Superlight.
#28
Three Wheelin'
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>Thnx for quick reply, it sounds like an good investment. How did you or where did you install electric pump in the front?
There are a few other options to the porsche pump. For example I'm using a mercedes unit that is almost identical to the porsche one and a fraction of the cost. I'll post some pics of the installed pump later tonight on my "964 Refurb" thread.
There are a few other options to the porsche pump. For example I'm using a mercedes unit that is almost identical to the porsche one and a fraction of the cost. I'll post some pics of the installed pump later tonight on my "964 Refurb" thread.
#29
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[QUOTE=jack.pe;10466886]...aside from tinware which I am already going to get redone in fibreglass...QUOTE]
Jack - Just wanted to pick up on this point as I have the factory 'crumbling iron oxide' fit for the 2 forward sections and cannot bring myself to apply for a 2nd mortage in order to replace them with steel parts that will just do the same in a few years. (The price suggests to me that there is a diamond encrusted tool in the factory that is used to carefully impregnate the steel with hydrochloric acid. Either that or they are steel plated carbon kevlar with temperature-activated rust camouflage.)
Which ones are you replacing and will there be any duplicates in the production line?![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cheers,
Z
PS/ Anyone know WHY have the aftermarket "gold foil and carbon" crowd overlooked these bits?
Jack - Just wanted to pick up on this point as I have the factory 'crumbling iron oxide' fit for the 2 forward sections and cannot bring myself to apply for a 2nd mortage in order to replace them with steel parts that will just do the same in a few years. (The price suggests to me that there is a diamond encrusted tool in the factory that is used to carefully impregnate the steel with hydrochloric acid. Either that or they are steel plated carbon kevlar with temperature-activated rust camouflage.)
Which ones are you replacing and will there be any duplicates in the production line?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cheers,
Z
PS/ Anyone know WHY have the aftermarket "gold foil and carbon" crowd overlooked these bits?