jotaking

It's been a really great thread this one.

Thanks for taking the time to document and post.

Both Frank's and this build have to be "up there" on the "Ultimate Wish List".

Hopefully....paving the way for others like myself gaining insight and a little experience of the pros and cons of Porsche restoration and modification.

Great Job Paul!!

Just a query on the exhaust???

IMHO I think the twin pipes is a must for this type of build, and like you I had a preference for the Fabspeed.

I noticed Frank had a custom exhaust (with heat I think). Does his have the same "drone" at 2-3K like the Fabspeed?

Did Nick at RedteK shed any light or have any advice on the subject?

Does anyone have any experience regarding the best twin outlet available for power and noise?

Cheers

StanUK951

Jotaking: this is what I'm looking at:

http://www.haywardandscott.com/porsche/911/964.html

No direct experience. Hoping to gather some at upcoming events...

Paul284pt

Hi Jotaking,

Frank's build was a great help to me. I had already booked my car into Redtek when his thread appeared like a gift from heaven and he was very generous in the amount of time he put aside to document it. Frank more or less confirmed my decision and it was very important as a learning curve for me.

My build is not for purists but did it for myself and to I enjoy the fun of driving it. To have people encourage and help is fantastic, and I've had lots of help here (particularly on brakes and suspension from KaiB and Bill Verbung...THANKS!), all I had to do was ask, brilliant! Thanks to all who chipped in.

Regarding the exhaust, before the engine build I had a new Dansk system: G Cup (long) which is secondary muffler delete and 2kg of weight saved; Twin-Outlet (one into two) running with cat. It was loud but good with no droning or resonance, but was I stress 1 into 2. I was disappointed not to be able to use it but the build required separate headers for the twin outlets to get the most out of the available horsepower.

The Dansk system was almost new and will now for sale to anyone who may be interested although I haven't advertised it on eBay etc. It will require another bumper quarter for the twin exhaust but these aren't expensive. It has about 3k miles on the G-Pipe which was fitted 1st and only 1k miles on the rest of the system.

The new system is a Fabspeed system is with heat. It was originally going to be a custom system but I believe it's all stock Fabspeed. Nick liked it so I went with him, also it saved money. I'm sure it will be sorted one way or another.

I believe Frank had mentioned in his thread that there were concerns regarding "booming" and I would think this is being addressed, I'm sure Frank could enlarge.

I have spoken to Nick about it and we're going to have some anti-resonance tips made. Which with a bit of luck may just mean fixing some perforated stainless sheet to fit inside the tips. Fingers crossed.

I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Cheers,
Paul

Paul284pt

Hi,

Something's been niggling me You may remember the beautiful carbon shroud JB Racing made:



Then like vandals we cut a chunk out of it to fit this:



To accommodate this and have heat:



Which now looks like this:





What's wrong with the above picture? Apart from the A/C pipes Yeah I know, but making the part in carbon was going to be very expensive as a one off piece and I need heat here in the North East.

So while the problem's been gnawing away at me, as I knew it surely would, I discussed the problem with a friend in British Super-Bikes and he recommended Wicked Coatings who can coat anything and their website is like an Aladdin's cave the "carbon dipping" looks amazing. Check it out http://www.wickedcoatings.co.uk/carbon-dipping-gallery

After a quick chat with Louise and an email from Chris Hinks who has been very helpful the offending part will soon be sent to be "dipped". I know it's not real carbon but it looks great and will stop my fretting

Cheers,
Paul

Ken D

Saw that process on a recent episode of "Wheeler Dealers" (Range Rover mk3). I'd not seen that technique before. Turned out pretty nice.
You Brits are a creative bunch

Paul284pt

I must have missed that one Ken in fact I'm probably the last person in the UK to know about it

Here's a photo of my son Edward on a road going Kawasaki from the BSB race team (Quattro Kawasaki). Some of the more intricate "carbon" parts are carbon dipped by Wicked Coatings to keep "the look".




I'll put some photos up of it finished which will be when the car goes in for it's shakedown at 1,500 miles.

Cheers,
Paul

kos11-12

This exhaust may well be good, I have been lurking on it for a few years,
not sure about the size and lenght of the downpipes, probably best to have it in 41 mm rather than 44MM diameter, the lenght seams to be longer than the Fabspeed
a few guys here are using a 993 GT3 rear silencer suggested by Steve Weiner,
I think on a standard engine even with an proper aftermaket ECU like Motec, you would not get much more power, but more importante you will probably (or need to if you spend 2k) get a better torque and BHP curve, with less bumps and dips, witch will make a difference when accelerating hard, a before and after dino run would be a good idea ( of course on the same dyno)
also noise limit if you use the car on track...

Great engine Paul, (one day maybe) would love to see your dino plot

Paul284pt

Hi Kos11-12,

Thanks mate, dyno is on the cards for during the shakedown at 1,500 miles. I have just over 800 on the clock at the moment with 2 long runs out. Set your alarm clock for early October.

I'll try to get the graph etc. and I'll post it here for anyone who's interested.

Cheers,
Paul

Paul284pt

Hi Kos11-12,

Thanks mate, dyno is on the cards for during the shakedown at 1,500 miles. I have just over 800 on the clock at the moment with 2 long runs out. Set your alarm clock for early October.

I'll try to get the graph etc. and I'll post it here for anyone who's interested.

Cheers,
Paul

Paul284pt

Hi,

Here are some photos of the modifications made to the undertray required to fit the RS Quick-shift:











To keep some aerodynamics a "U" shaped pice was cut from the undertray bent down and 3 small pieces (2 angled, one rectangle'ish) welded into position then undersealed to finish.

Cheers,
Paul

StanUK951

How does it feel?

Does the gear stick sit higher than before (like in the RS) or the same?

Paul284pt

Hi Stan,

It feels great, it's not as vague like before and the gears slip in nicely with a minimum of fuss, but neither is it slick like an Impreza Turbo STi, it's a worthwhile improvement though.

The gearstick is exactly the same (see below).



Cheers,
Paul

HiWind

Hey guys - quick question (brief hijack apologies) but I'm fitting mine tomorrow
On a RHD car. The pet diagram shows the assembly with the shifter (pt 1 in pic) on the rt side of tunnel/assembly
But pet diagrams afaik are all left hand drive ... Could it be the shifter shd go on opposite side in RHD car?

I ask as when I disassembled - I'm doing the universal & helm joint mod Cup Car detailed - I'm pretty sure
(But not positively so) that the shifter went down the left side of the slider assembly
- damn i forgot the 'before you rush in' pics again

Can a RHD guy lift the confusion?! Are RS shifters 'handed'?

Ps - Paul that interior is pristine - matches the rest

Paul284pt

HiWind,

I wasn't sure about that as I didn't do it myself so I texted Nick for you and he says "dead centre down tunnel".

Thanks mate, as Bette Midler says, "from a distance".

Cheers,
Paul

robt964

Is modifying the undertray the only option? No sure if you have a C4 or C2 (or if there is any difference) but when I fitted the rothsport shifter (quick shift just like the RS one) to my C2 I had to swap out the oval plastic bushes that hold the shift tube to the chassis. This raises the whole assembly just enough so that the bottom joint doesn't connect with the undertray.