jpar

Rob your bracket looks likes a nice piece. I'm not sure if you've mentioned it before, but is Coil Over Plug not an option for you? It makes for a much cleaner install imo and there are so many to choose from.

robt964

It may be cleaner in terms of no coil-packs but a COP setup is more complex and costly. You'll need 12 COPs, possibly 12 ignition amps and a lot of ignition channels on the ECU. You could run a COP setup in a wasted spark configuration to bring down the required number of channels but you'll still need all the amps.
It's a nice idea but I want to keep things simple and reduce the component count. If it wasn't a twin plug motor then I might reconsider.

Jacke2c

Sweet!

kos11-12

Very clean , you think there is no worries for vibrations there...that could crack the bracket ...

jpar

Yeah I failed to do simple math was thinking of my 4 cylinder days, 12 coils add up quickly

neffets

looks very good!

Duck

Very nice looking.

R6XTERRA

Very slick....looks like it was meant to be a factory setup.....

spenny_b

Nice one Rob! Very smart job - was that your re-aquainted contacts welding?

Did you keep to mounting the amps on the inner wing in the end?

robt964

That was a consideration of the design. The stem is a solid 30mm ally bar whilst the main plate is 10mm thick ally. It's pretty solid with zero movement when bolted in. The tech sheet for the coil packs explicity states they're designed to be engine mounted so I have no concerns there either.

Hey buddy, yep Bryn welded the parts for me. I decided against mounting the amps on the underside of the coil packs so they're back on the inner wing. I've cut and shaped the plate for them so once everything is back in and working I'll remove the ally parts and get them anodised black. How I wish I'd never seen your build thread

jevvy964

Really looks great and solid(as usual), will be interesting to see if you do get any wobble at various engine rpms with that long alloy post. How heavy are the bits that are mounted to it?

robt964

The coil packs are weighty so I will be keeping an eye on it. If need be, it'll be relatively simple to add a brace between the lower edge of the main plate and one of the bolts securing the cooling shroud on No 1 head. It would be hardly visible. As it stands at the moment tho, I can thump the mount about without a trace of movement.

Captain Ahab Jr.

Rob I reckon you could hang a house of it and it wouldn't break but Jev has raised a good point about resonance.

I once designed a rear jacking bracket on a race car which turned out to be a much better tuning fork with the exact natural frequency tneed to work from the vibrations of the 18,000 rpm engine. It cracked through and fell off in less than 5 laps. Not an all time best early failure for me but certainly one of the more memorable

Might be worth checking to see what revs you sit at the most when driving and feeling what the vibrations are like at those revs (with the car parked up obviously).

If its buzzing you can go brave and drill some big holes in the 10mm plate or take the safe option and add your additional anchor.

robt964

^ or do both I guess. Thankyou for the guidance.

evoderby

Great work Rob! The wasted spark coil packs are a very neat upgrade over the existing distributors indeed, not to mention dead easy and cheap to service when compared to the original set up with internal belt drive etc. to go wrong.

I am sure he guys at SC would be interested in the bracket/ distributor plug you've designed. The guys at DSN Classics who do all SC billet alloy machining (got lots of their stuff on my mini) could easily turn out a billet version....

Your design must be worth 2 hours of dyno time!? ;-)

Good luck with your project.