ERP Spring Plate Q?
#1
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Quick info needed, I am installing these new spring plate this weekend, but they didn't come with instruction. It might look self explanotry for some, but I am not sure which way they go. Slightly different than OEM, the hole patern is different.
So, can someone tell me if the smaller hole (perfectly round one) goes towards the top (roof) or goes towards the bottom (ground) of the car?
Thanks
So, can someone tell me if the smaller hole (perfectly round one) goes towards the top (roof) or goes towards the bottom (ground) of the car?
Thanks
#2
Nordschleife Master
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Member PAOLOP shared some insight into this in another thread where I was asking the same question.
https://rennlist.com/rennforums/show...=550968&page=2
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The above information turned out to be WRONG, and it wasn't PAOLOP's fault either, because this misinformation was coming straight from the manufacture and their vendors.
CORRECT ORIENTATION DETAILS
The slotted hole to the bottom = small camber range
The slotted hole to the top = large camber range
In my experience, I was only able to get about -1.3 degrees camber evenly on both sides w/ the slotted hole on the bottom. With the slotted hole on the top, I was able to get nearly -3.0 degrees camber.
You probably want to put the rubber boots that Tarett sells on the rod ends before you put them on the car.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The above information turned out to be WRONG, and it wasn't PAOLOP's fault either, because this misinformation was coming straight from the manufacture and their vendors.
CORRECT ORIENTATION DETAILS
The slotted hole to the bottom = small camber range
The slotted hole to the top = large camber range
In my experience, I was only able to get about -1.3 degrees camber evenly on both sides w/ the slotted hole on the bottom. With the slotted hole on the top, I was able to get nearly -3.0 degrees camber.
You probably want to put the rubber boots that Tarett sells on the rod ends before you put them on the car.
Last edited by Vandit; 08-09-2013 at 08:58 PM.
#4
Nordschleife Master
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Which way did you end up installing them and how much camber did you dial in?
I haven't put the car back down, but finished installing the rear parts yesterday and went with the small hole downward (small camber setting). I'm hoping to get around -1.5 out of it.
I haven't put the car back down, but finished installing the rear parts yesterday and went with the small hole downward (small camber setting). I'm hoping to get around -1.5 out of it.
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#6
Nordschleife Master
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I bothered just a bit.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/PumpXRS/Album%202/IMG_2000a.jpg)
Marc, which way are you running them? I went for the smaller hole at the bottom, but I want to be sure I can get at least -1.5 out of them before I put the car on the rack. Otherwise, i'll flip them.
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v512/PumpXRS/Album%202/IMG_2000a.jpg)
Marc, which way are you running them? I went for the smaller hole at the bottom, but I want to be sure I can get at least -1.5 out of them before I put the car on the rack. Otherwise, i'll flip them.
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I will have to go look - I managed to get -2.7 on the rear before so I must have put them in the right way around.
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Marc
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#9
Drifting
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I have 2,3 in tje rear with stock but monoball at the top mount.
Question about the ERP's, is the blacke "spacer" part mounted on the inside towards the chassie or on the outside?
Thomas
Question about the ERP's, is the blacke "spacer" part mounted on the inside towards the chassie or on the outside?
Thomas
#10
Nordschleife Master
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The spacer on the monoball side has two sides. It's pretty clear the direction it goes once you're down there and remove the stock piece.
Basically the conical side goes toward the unibody where it mates w/ a similar setting on the unibody.
The opposite side has the bolt hole that is recessed, and the socket head (12mm) bolt goes into the spacer once the fastener is installed. I'll eventually post a detailed thread w/ pics of all this info.
In the pic I posted above, the piece that goes toward the unibody is laying in the middle of the photo. The piece that goes on the side of the fastener head is pointing up on the right side of the photo.
Basically the conical side goes toward the unibody where it mates w/ a similar setting on the unibody.
The opposite side has the bolt hole that is recessed, and the socket head (12mm) bolt goes into the spacer once the fastener is installed. I'll eventually post a detailed thread w/ pics of all this info.
In the pic I posted above, the piece that goes toward the unibody is laying in the middle of the photo. The piece that goes on the side of the fastener head is pointing up on the right side of the photo.
#11
Drifting
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Ok, thanks! As you say I think it will be pretty obvious when you remove the old plates. I now have all the parts I need in the garage so I'll start to remove everything next week.
Thomas
Thomas
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I am going in tomorrow for a full on wheel alignment. I am hoping to get 2.5 on the rear and 2 on the front. I ended up installing the spring plate with the long hole (larger) at the bottom.
#13
Nordschleife Master
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I want to bump this thread to correct some misinformation that resulted in me having to eat the cost of a 2nd alignment. This was misinformation coming all the way from the manufacture.
The reality:
The slotted hole to the bottom = small camber range
The slotted hole to the top = large camber range
In my experience, I was only able to get about -1.3 degrees camber evenly on both sides w/ the slotted hole on the bottom. With the slotted hole on the top, I was able to get nearly -3.0 degrees camber.
In the end, I dialed that back to -2.0 degrees which is what I wanted all along.
The reality:
The slotted hole to the bottom = small camber range
The slotted hole to the top = large camber range
In my experience, I was only able to get about -1.3 degrees camber evenly on both sides w/ the slotted hole on the bottom. With the slotted hole on the top, I was able to get nearly -3.0 degrees camber.
In the end, I dialed that back to -2.0 degrees which is what I wanted all along.
#15
Drifting
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I've now done 7 trackdays after this winters upgrade of ERP's and powerflex bushings in the rear traling arms.
Bakground: I've been very happy with the front end of the car for some time now but the rear end didn't behave 100% as I wanted it to. Especially in high speed corners I could feel the rear end moving in mid turn which affected my confindence to keep the throttle down. I believed the tyres could be a part of this so last year I went up to 18 inch and it got much better. But I was only 95% happy. So this year I got the ERP's and black powerflex bushes for the rear trailing arms. And after 7 trackdays I can honestly say I'm now 100% happy. The rear end is very precise and sharp and it is easy to steer with the throttle through high speed corners with confidence. So as a kit I'm very happy with this upgrade
I'm running -2,5 camber in the rear and -3,0 up front. I could get -2,3 in the rear with the stock spring plates and my RSR top mounts. The camber wasn't the big thing for me, it was more a question of getting rid of rubber. Now my whole chassie and drive train is uniballs or nylon bushes and it runs like a dream!
Thomas
Bakground: I've been very happy with the front end of the car for some time now but the rear end didn't behave 100% as I wanted it to. Especially in high speed corners I could feel the rear end moving in mid turn which affected my confindence to keep the throttle down. I believed the tyres could be a part of this so last year I went up to 18 inch and it got much better. But I was only 95% happy. So this year I got the ERP's and black powerflex bushes for the rear trailing arms. And after 7 trackdays I can honestly say I'm now 100% happy. The rear end is very precise and sharp and it is easy to steer with the throttle through high speed corners with confidence. So as a kit I'm very happy with this upgrade
I'm running -2,5 camber in the rear and -3,0 up front. I could get -2,3 in the rear with the stock spring plates and my RSR top mounts. The camber wasn't the big thing for me, it was more a question of getting rid of rubber. Now my whole chassie and drive train is uniballs or nylon bushes and it runs like a dream!
Thomas