Possible to replace boots on OEM swaybar links?
#16
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Ball Joint Dust Boots #13003.
=> http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...Dust-Boots.asp
I replaced all 4 boots in the front. It fits perfect, but you need to grind a nick for the rod.
=> http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...Dust-Boots.asp
I replaced all 4 boots in the front. It fits perfect, but you need to grind a nick for the rod.
Here's a direct link to the set 9.13103 that includes two of part # 13003.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...p?prod=9.13103
I'll be ordering some soon.
#17
Drifting
So the correct part # is 13003, but you order these in sets, so the part # for the set is 9.13103 and they are available in Red or Black. They're sold in pairs, so you'd need 1 set for each link (so 2 sets total for the front axle).
Here's a direct link to the set 9.13103 that includes two of part # 13003.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...p?prod=9.13103
I'll be ordering some soon.
Here's a direct link to the set 9.13103 that includes two of part # 13003.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...p?prod=9.13103
I'll be ordering some soon.
What holds them in place?
#18
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Old and busted boots on links
Set 9.13103 includes 2 boots, so 1 set per drop link. I ordered them from ES. Direct link to set.
Here's the answer to "what holds them in place." The poly boots are a pain to get over this section of the link. A long, thin, set of needle nose pliers really help get the job done.
Grinded a bit of a notch into the cap per seeq's suggestion. Worked out great.
Cleaned out the old grease and loaded it w/ new grease.
New & Old. I did both of the front links, this is just a comparison shot before I did the 2nd link.
Up-close comparison shot.
#19
How elastic are these red poly boots?
Do they have a lip to hold on the rod end (the large diameter part of the boot)?
I would worry that movement of the tie-rod would dislodge/rotate them out of correct position.
Do they have a lip to hold on the rod end (the large diameter part of the boot)?
I would worry that movement of the tie-rod would dislodge/rotate them out of correct position.
#20
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
They are held on from the top and the boot is stiff enough to keep it in place on the large end.
As far as spinning, you can spin them by hand w/ some effort, so we'll see if that creates any problems. It's not like these pieces spin complete revolutions when they're in action on the car, just back and forth movement.
It's a <$15 solution (incl S/H) that will hopefully keep me from dropping $$$ on some OEM replacements and hold me over till I get some nice Rennline pieces.
As far as spinning, you can spin them by hand w/ some effort, so we'll see if that creates any problems. It's not like these pieces spin complete revolutions when they're in action on the car, just back and forth movement.
It's a <$15 solution (incl S/H) that will hopefully keep me from dropping $$$ on some OEM replacements and hold me over till I get some nice Rennline pieces.
#25
Instructor
GeorgeK,
This SFascrima.ch is this just one store?
Ive tried to contact them with english and french email to obtain some cache rotule.
But no succes so far.
I have gone thru my rubber boots on my 964 that came from CA and they are all dried out but good mechanicly and got inspired by this post to try to salvage them.
Tried to send a msg to you but I belive i pressed something wrong.....
Really a good place to pick up valued tips.
Regards,
Per
P356GT
This SFascrima.ch is this just one store?
Ive tried to contact them with english and french email to obtain some cache rotule.
But no succes so far.
I have gone thru my rubber boots on my 964 that came from CA and they are all dried out but good mechanicly and got inspired by this post to try to salvage them.
Tried to send a msg to you but I belive i pressed something wrong.....
Really a good place to pick up valued tips.
Regards,
Per
P356GT
#26
Burning Brakes
Just as I get my car back from the engine rebuild... the mech has to say - BTW: your drop links and tie rod ends dust covers are starting to crack.
So... I'm off to take care of this now. George K made it clear which ones work for the tie rod ends. Great... got a source to get them and the sizes. So no problems there.
For the drop links I'm not sure what to do. I have a C4... which has different drop links than Vandit's. The Energy Suspension stuff looks good and more durable, but I'm not sure this will fit on the C4's (and C2 with M030 suspension) drop links. I am assuming these are the same as the tie rods... but not entirely certain.
One thing I'm certain of: they will have the metal clips to hold em in place if rubber is the way to go for me.
In this place the rubber lasts just over 2 years. All drop links replaced, tie rods, etc. Now we are 18k Mi later and they all need to be replaced? I don't think so... just the rubber will do please.
Advice from the crowd that did this on a C4?
So... I'm off to take care of this now. George K made it clear which ones work for the tie rod ends. Great... got a source to get them and the sizes. So no problems there.
For the drop links I'm not sure what to do. I have a C4... which has different drop links than Vandit's. The Energy Suspension stuff looks good and more durable, but I'm not sure this will fit on the C4's (and C2 with M030 suspension) drop links. I am assuming these are the same as the tie rods... but not entirely certain.
One thing I'm certain of: they will have the metal clips to hold em in place if rubber is the way to go for me.
In this place the rubber lasts just over 2 years. All drop links replaced, tie rods, etc. Now we are 18k Mi later and they all need to be replaced? I don't think so... just the rubber will do please.
Advice from the crowd that did this on a C4?
#27
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I think the C4 drop links have a pressed rubber bushing on one end that is not serviceable and has no boot. If that rubber bush starts to fail, then you need a new drop link.
I think the other end is like the ends on the C2 links and has a boot like what is being discussed in this thread.
I think the other end is like the ends on the C2 links and has a boot like what is being discussed in this thread.
#29
Difficulty 2/10 (1/10 = taking a wheel off!)
Tools: 17mm wrenches, tool of your choice to remove/refit boot clips.
Dedicated time for task (one side): 30mins (not inc jacking, wheels, cleaning etc).
Notes: Jack car both sides to prevent tension on link.
C4 link has one ball joint at top, bottom is rubber bushed; ball joint is secured on parallel thread (not coned).
Original boot secured by elasticated band at top; may be re-usable: bottom secured by metal clip of flat cross-section form (similar to split key-ring) and “mine” were painted yellow and better quality than replacements.
Ball joint does not use Moly-based grease suggesting that bearing cup may be plastic.
Ball joint spindle has 17mm flats to assist with wrenching.
Got my boots from http://www.balljointboot.co.uk/ (£5.95)
This was so simple, I worked from the wheel arch and didn’t bother with photos.Tools: 17mm wrenches, tool of your choice to remove/refit boot clips.
Dedicated time for task (one side): 30mins (not inc jacking, wheels, cleaning etc).
Notes: Jack car both sides to prevent tension on link.
C4 link has one ball joint at top, bottom is rubber bushed; ball joint is secured on parallel thread (not coned).
Original boot secured by elasticated band at top; may be re-usable: bottom secured by metal clip of flat cross-section form (similar to split key-ring) and “mine” were painted yellow and better quality than replacements.
Ball joint does not use Moly-based grease suggesting that bearing cup may be plastic.
Ball joint spindle has 17mm flats to assist with wrenching.
Got my boots from http://www.balljointboot.co.uk/ (£5.95)
Last edited by Harry Apps; 11-17-2013 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Added info