oil feed pipe flange adapter replacement - locktite 270 questions?
#1
Three Wheelin'
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In the process of removing my power steering pump it was necessary to loosen the oil feedpipe. On inspection the "flange" alluminium crush washer seal was looking heavily corroded and I figured I'd also cracked the loctite meaning it may well leak after re tightening.
Here's the loctite residue from in the case.
Do I need to scrape this all out or will the new loctite I apply on reassembly dissolve it?
![](https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8440/7970804214_4945287271_c.jpg)
From the manual it says to use a small amount (parts 12 and 13)
![](https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8029/7970800206_c1b411a2d1_c.jpg)
BUT the last person that had this apart went to town and there was a thick wedge of loctite behind the seal ring.
![](https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7970802468_cbd6d5ba87_c.jpg)
Is this standard practice and should I therefore apply similar amounts when re-assembling, or should I follow the manual and apply thinly just to the threads?
Here's the loctite residue from in the case.
Do I need to scrape this all out or will the new loctite I apply on reassembly dissolve it?
![](https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8440/7970804214_4945287271_c.jpg)
From the manual it says to use a small amount (parts 12 and 13)
![](https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8029/7970800206_c1b411a2d1_c.jpg)
BUT the last person that had this apart went to town and there was a thick wedge of loctite behind the seal ring.
![](https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7970802468_cbd6d5ba87_c.jpg)
Is this standard practice and should I therefore apply similar amounts when re-assembling, or should I follow the manual and apply thinly just to the threads?
Last edited by alexjc4; 09-10-2012 at 11:23 AM.
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Any tips on cleaning off the old loctite 270?
I've had a little scratch with a pick, and where you'd normally get it chipping off in nice lumps, this is such a even thin coating it's just turning to dust where you scrape, meaning you'd need to scrape out each thread individually.
It's ironic because the flange/adapter is completely clean, no thread lock attached to it at all - but I've got a new one of those!
EDIT: obviously I don't want to get too aggressive as that hole is the inlet to the oil pump - so no filtration between there and the bearings, squirters and oilways.
I've had a little scratch with a pick, and where you'd normally get it chipping off in nice lumps, this is such a even thin coating it's just turning to dust where you scrape, meaning you'd need to scrape out each thread individually.
It's ironic because the flange/adapter is completely clean, no thread lock attached to it at all - but I've got a new one of those!
EDIT: obviously I don't want to get too aggressive as that hole is the inlet to the oil pump - so no filtration between there and the bearings, squirters and oilways.
#4
IHI KING!
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I normally use a brass wire brush to remove the threadlocker. The brass is soft enough not to damage the base metal. According to this article, you can use a solvent too but I haven't tried it.
#6
Three Wheelin'
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thanks guys ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It's too small an opening to get any of my brass brushes into, so I ended up using a combination of a small seal pick and a thread gauge (the sort that comes with a tap and die set that is like a set of feeler gauges only instead of different thicknesses they have different size teeth vvvvvv to offer up to threads to check the size) of the correct size to kinda chase out the threads and I've got it pretty clean using cotton bud cue-tips - the last thing I want is little bits of loctite floating around the oilways.
lol, that's a mind numbing, back aching, hour of my life I won't get back!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It's too small an opening to get any of my brass brushes into, so I ended up using a combination of a small seal pick and a thread gauge (the sort that comes with a tap and die set that is like a set of feeler gauges only instead of different thicknesses they have different size teeth vvvvvv to offer up to threads to check the size) of the correct size to kinda chase out the threads and I've got it pretty clean using cotton bud cue-tips - the last thing I want is little bits of loctite floating around the oilways.
lol, that's a mind numbing, back aching, hour of my life I won't get back!
#7
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Its getting harder to source Loctite 270. I bought some on eBay. Has it been discontinued?
According the Henkel, manufacturer of Loctite products, Loctite 263 is the recommended replacement.
http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...UID=000001F4DD
According the Henkel, manufacturer of Loctite products, Loctite 263 is the recommended replacement.
http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...UID=000001F4DD
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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.
Not sure, seems ok to get hold of here in UK, my local industrial tool shop had a fair amount in stock
Its getting harder to source Loctite 270. I bought some on eBay. Has it been discontinued?
According the Henkel, manufacturer of Loctite products, Loctite 263 is the recommended replacement.
http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...UID=000001F4DD
According the Henkel, manufacturer of Loctite products, Loctite 263 is the recommended replacement.
http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...UID=000001F4DD