Derek Pedersen

How much of the exhaust needs to come off for a valve adjustment? All the way to the heads?

Vandit

Negative.

All that needs to be removed is the catalytic converter on the left side and the secondary exhaust canister on the right side.

Read this thread. Very helpful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...or-method.html

Derek Pedersen

Wow, excellent thread with excellent pictures. Just what I needed. Thanks!

Derek Pedersen

Next question.... what to do about pulled valve cover studs? Had a few come out instead of the nuts coming off.

I'm sure its no big deal, just wondered what others have done.

Rocket Rob

I would just clean it off and thread it back in with some locktite.

Makmov

+1 Just green loctite them back in. Make sure the stud and the hole is super clean. Use new washers and nuts.

Indycam

Why 290 ?
Why not 242 ?

Makmov

290 Just works better on aluminium.

I have had them come back out with blue 242.

Actually I use Permatex Green, kind of ironic it's in a blue bottle.

darth

what to do about pulled valve cover studs

If what you mean by pulled studs, is that the threads are stripped, then insertion of a heli coil or my personal preference, Timesert will fix the damaged threads.

Derek Pedersen

Thanks for all the responses. Threads are still fine, studs just threaded out. I'll clean up and reinstall with loctite.

Derek Pedersen

A few observations...

1. Valve adjust is really straightforward. I ordered the .004 feeler gauge, tried it and didn't care for it. Works, but a lot of fuss. I used the backside method with a standard feeler gauge and found it to be very easy with great access to all intake and exhaust valve from below the car. Use .0025 as GO ad .003 as NO-GO gauge. Doesn't get much easier than that.

2. No need to remove anything from the engine bay except the blower duct (1 part). This allows access to the two hidden fasteners for the driver's side tins.

3. Adjusting all valves from below the car gives wide-open access. Just remove the tin between the valve covers on both sides. No cylinder was any more difficult than the others.

4. Here's what I removed: blower duct (in engine bay), heat shielding around cat, catalytic converter, wheels, secondary muffler (if you have it, I actually don't, so I really didn't have anything to remove). Wheels may not be necessary, but makes it really easy to get to the valves. Thread above gives some really great shots of what it all looks like and what needs to come off.

5. Prepare for your car to be down a while if this is your first time. I believe I could do it in 4 hours next time.

sschultze09

Question Utah.
Did you go back and check with the .004? were they spot on doing the backside method.

Makmov

yeah the backside method is not as accurate. And if you adjusted them at .004 backside they are all wrong. You need to adjust for the rocker ratio to get close to .004 at the tappet using the backside method.

It's something like .00286 but they tend to use a .0025 probably because of availablity of a .00286 feeler gauge is nonexistant. So you never do get spot on .004

So everything is going to be too tight. Backside is a cheat for those who cannot adjust 911 valves correctly, and it's really not that hard to do it correctly.

sschultze09

I meant .004 at the tappet.

Makmov

Oh yeah, I know what you ment. There is no way possible it could be the math doesn't work out to .004, now it very close but not spot on.