Makmov

I mean yeah, if it doesn't have enough compression it wont start. But interestingly it would run on starter fluid.

sounds like a lean condition perhaps.

hawk911

so.. the latest update

they did the leakdown because when tried to start it, the engine didn't sound normal. So the leakdown was performed. The latest is they put a scope down the cylinder and can see shrapnel in the cylinder.

so he said I'm looking at about $7k to do the rebuild, with new ARP head studs, new rings, updated head gasket (non-paper version), timing chain ramps, new sprockets, and valve job. The cylinder damage is unknown until they open it up, but the cylinder(s) are not included. nor would making the valve covers nice and pretty.

Car will be down for the summer, as he's got a few rebuilds going already.

Really wish I had a 4 car garage now. Having the car down for the count means it would sit in my garage, taking up photo studio space too!

Dammmmmmit!

Makmov

What part of Wisconsin are you in?

hawk911

Racine, just south of Milwaukee.

springer3

+1. Your numbers are not nearly bad enough to keep the car from starting, unless it is the intake valves leaking, and it is back-firing into the intake manifold.

It is pretty easy to ID the leak during the leak test. The combustion chamber is pressurized, and leaking air makes a pretty loud noise: hiss in the exhaust = exhaust valve; hiss in the intake = intake valve; hiss in the crankcase = rings, and hiss at the head gasket = pulled stud(s). Know where the problem is before diving in - especially with a limited budget.

Good luck

hawk911

exhaust valve on #2.

August West

Sorry for your woes...you might want to be open to trucking your car to another reputable shop if you don't want to wait all summer. I would imagine there would be a decent shop in Chicago or thereabouts?

Good luck and hang in there...

hawk911

there's a shop in Madison, about 90 mins from the shop that has it. Kelly Moss. Another really good shop

-nick

Ouch. I'm curious about the history and mileage on the car?

Just a thought, but $7k estimate - $1700 LouZ's expense = a lot of beer to convince a buddy to use their garage for a month. And still some $ leftover for tools

hawk911

Trust me.... I've thought about it. One of my friends (also on here) is looking at storage options. My thought it to drop the engine and store the shell, then reverse when all rebuilt. BUT----- do I have the skills to rebuild a motor.....



miles- about 95K. history since I've had it- regular oil changes, no valve job. Bought the car with 70K on it, so I'm a bit overdue on the valves. no other issues, and NEVER overrev'd since I've owned it.

FeralComprehension

Second opinion.

Makmov

all my connection in Wisc are in Madision

Makmov

Yeah you could take it up to the KM and see what they say. Probably not the cheapest option though. Whenever I had to deal with them they were stupid kind of expensive.

Jacke2c

Yes, you could have an engine that has problems, and i would guess that you could take any engine out of storage for four months, test it and find "errors" This engine needs to be made to run firts, driven for a few days, oil change, driven and then tested....

BUT IT SHOULD BE MADE TO RUN FIRST IF IT WAS RUNNING WHEN YOU PARKED IT.

The fellow who had just rebuilt his using the time elapse photography and had left rags in the intakes is evidenced that something "foriegn" can give you false readings. One piece of mouse crap that had worked its way up the exhaust (cup bypass and cup pipe?) could cause the exact same thing.

I have built and rebuilt scores of engines: porsche, sb chevy, bb chevy.. and multiple special purpose built 900hp dual intercooler (h20 over air and air over air) Cummings. First rule, make it run first. You have nothing to lose. Rings could have settled and contracted in their glands, you could have had a lot of hot-cold transition days in storage that would suck moisture into the engine causing enough rust in 1-2 cylinders, you name it. I would be wary of a shop that would do a 4 month old cold engine leak down test. I don't live where you live, or know the storage conditions, but it does make a difference.

Sorry to be a prude about this, but engines that are run regulalry just don't have these kind of problems. Storage engines do, that is why you (they) need to make it run first and then driven for a few days.

Rocket Rob

Hawk - Maybe I missed it but did they say why the engine wouldn't start? A weak cylinder won't prevent an engine from running.