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VERDICT: fix broken clutch fork mounting boss

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Old 03-17-2012, 04:08 PM
  #31  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Originally Posted by Laker
Ouch, any idea as to the root cause?
Seized needle bearings is the normal cause. As these get contaminated with clutch dust, they require increasing force to move the release fork and finally the aluminum boss fails as the hydraulics are strong enough to do this.

One either welds the broken piece back on and remachine the bores, or install something like the CMS component.

I've never installed the Cup HTOB in a 964/993 so I cannot say how well these work. The only HTOB's I've used are Tilton ones made specifically to work with 5.5" race clutches and these have a VERY short throw.
Old 03-17-2012, 06:55 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by PChar
Ok, yesterday and this morning working hard to remove the engine and the transmission. Here is the final Verdict:

The clutch mounting boss is broken, the fork and the shaft still looking good, but will replace just because. The needle bearings were completely destroyed.
I see that two mounting screw holes are already there .
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=hydraulic
Old 03-18-2012, 12:36 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by PChar
Anyone has an idea of what hapen and how should I go about fixing this?
The most inexpensive fix will be to create new mounting bosses. The most difficult part will be finding someone that can build up the welds properly. Try the welding instructor at a local community or technical college. You'll want to use a graphite EDM rod ($20) as a positive (male) mold and then build the welds up around it. Porsche sold a special cutting/reaming tool to create the proper diameter openings. I may have posted the part number and pictures a few years back. Make sure you drain the case and you'll need to do things in small incremental steps with external cooling but the whole thing can be fixed for less than $500. (BTDT)
Old 03-18-2012, 10:17 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Seized needle bearings is the normal cause. As these get contaminated with clutch dust, they require increasing force to move the release fork and finally the aluminum boss fails as the hydraulics are strong enough to do this.

One either welds the broken piece back on and remachine the bores, or install something like the CMS component.

I've never installed the Cup HTOB in a 964/993 so I cannot say how well these work. The only HTOB's I've used are Tilton ones made specifically to work with 5.5" race clutches and these have a VERY short throw.
Cheers Steve
Old 03-18-2012, 12:35 PM
  #35  
John Rygg
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Had the same thing happen to my Cab about 10 years ago, about 1 month after buying the car.
Had an expensive intro to 964s but it has gotten better ever since.

had to swap the housing out and went through the transmission while it was out. Gave me an excuse to get rid of the dual mass flywheel.
Old 03-18-2012, 01:03 PM
  #36  
PChar
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Seized needle bearings is the normal cause. As these get contaminated with clutch dust, they require increasing force to move the release fork and finally the aluminum boss fails as the hydraulics are strong enough to do this.

One either welds the broken piece back on and remachine the bores, or install something like the CMS component.

I've never installed the Cup HTOB in a 964/993 so I cannot say how well these work. The only HTOB's I've used are Tilton ones made specifically to work with 5.5" race clutches and these have a VERY short throw.
Thanks Steve, I think I will go the welding route. I have found someone local that can diss/assemble the tranny and ship to Arizona (Patrick Motorsport) which will do the repair for $475.

Originally Posted by JasonAndreas
Make sure you drain the case and you'll need to do things in small incremental steps with external cooling but the whole thing can be fixed for less than $500. (BTDT)
I dont think so, just the diss/assemble of the tranny goes into the $1800 without the repair itself. I am hopping that the shop who will dismantle the tranny will not find too much wrong with it, because it will significantly increase the overall cost.
Old 03-18-2012, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by PChar
Thanks Steve, I think I will go the welding route. I have found someone local that can diss/assemble the tranny and ship to Arizona (Patrick Motorsport) which will do the repair for $475.
I think thats a good plan since properly done, its a solid and permanent repair.
Old 03-29-2012, 10:07 PM
  #38  
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I have had a local shop reweld the clutch fork mounting boss, below in the picture although now I am very confuse with wich clutch fork shaft to use. So many things have been suggested that I ended up buying two different ones.

I have started another tread to have faster response

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ml#post9403913
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:27 PM
  #39  
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VERDICT:

Clutch Pedeal improperly adjusted.

I ommitted to adjust the clutch pedal travel after replacing the salve and master cylinder as well as new clutch kit. This caused the master cylinder to push to far on the clutch fork, which in turns pivoted too far leaning against the cassing of the bellhousing putting extreme force on the mounting boss. which ultimately failed.

So lesson learned,... always check your clutch pedal adjustment/travel when new clutch component.
Old 04-08-2012, 04:11 PM
  #40  
Vandit
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Interesting.

I just replaced the slave cylinder on my car and did not adjust anything on the pedal.

What's the procedure for properly adjusting the pedal?
Old 04-08-2012, 07:08 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by PChar
I dont think so, just the diss/assemble of the tranny goes into the $1800 without the repair itself. I am hopping that the shop who will dismantle the tranny will not find too much wrong with it, because it will significantly increase the overall cost.
You don't need to disassemble the transmission to weld repair on new bosses to the bellhousing, draining the oil will be enough. You don't even need to replace the input shaft seal. BTDT.


Originally Posted by PChar
This caused the master cylinder to push to far on the clutch fork, which in turns pivoted too far leaning against the cassing of the bellhousing putting extreme force on the mounting boss. which ultimately failed.
Do you remember hearing any clicking sounds as the clutch pedal was fully depressed? For anyone else that finds this thread, when the pedal is too far out of adjustment the backside of the release fork will hit the pressure plate and make a loud clicking sound as it grinds away at the sachs logo and part number.
Old 06-15-2013, 04:02 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by PChar
VERDICT:

Clutch Pedeal improperly adjusted.

I ommitted to adjust the clutch pedal travel after replacing the salve and master cylinder as well as new clutch kit. This caused the master cylinder to push to far on the clutch fork, which in turns pivoted too far leaning against the cassing of the bellhousing putting extreme force on the mounting boss. which ultimately failed.

So lesson learned,... always check your clutch pedal adjustment/travel when new clutch component.
I'm stuck home with my 3 year old twins today so I thought I'd do a little learning. This is a very nice thread with some juicy bits for sure.

Can someone please tell us how to adjust clutch pedal travel correctly? I know there is a TSB on this but it only lists correct throw, (15.5cm +/- if I remember but don't quote me), not how to measure or achieve it.



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