Suspension questions (KW related)
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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Hello,
I'm trying to figure out a suspension to go with my Tip car. I'd like to set it up as best I can for 80/20, street/track, without over doing it. I'm really leaning towards a fixed damper option. I was about to pull the trigger on the KW V1's but I get the impression they are a little soft for tracking. Assuming it's true the spring rates are the same as the V3's, 170/440, how do V3 owners find the overall setup with comp. and rebound set midway (assuming this is how the V1's are set)? Might the V1's with 225-250lbs spec'd springs up front acheive the slightly stiffer 'compromise' without ruining the balance? hmm... I guess the V3's would be great, but I get the feeling that once set I'd never adjust them again, thus only taking the guess work out of purchasing.
The other thing is sway bars. I think I'm locked into 19mm on the rear (with the tip). Is it worth changing up front only?
The general overall setup and final weight of the car will be the standard C2 tip minus sunroof, sound deadening, rear shelf, A/C with Recaros, cup pipe.
Thanks
I'm trying to figure out a suspension to go with my Tip car. I'd like to set it up as best I can for 80/20, street/track, without over doing it. I'm really leaning towards a fixed damper option. I was about to pull the trigger on the KW V1's but I get the impression they are a little soft for tracking. Assuming it's true the spring rates are the same as the V3's, 170/440, how do V3 owners find the overall setup with comp. and rebound set midway (assuming this is how the V1's are set)? Might the V1's with 225-250lbs spec'd springs up front acheive the slightly stiffer 'compromise' without ruining the balance? hmm... I guess the V3's would be great, but I get the feeling that once set I'd never adjust them again, thus only taking the guess work out of purchasing.
The other thing is sway bars. I think I'm locked into 19mm on the rear (with the tip). Is it worth changing up front only?
The general overall setup and final weight of the car will be the standard C2 tip minus sunroof, sound deadening, rear shelf, A/C with Recaros, cup pipe.
Thanks
#2
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I have KWV3s on my car and they are great on and off track.
They are, as you said, fully adjustable meaning you have the best of both worlds. They are easy to adjust, although adjusting the rears will require the removal of the heater motor and air box in order to gain access.
I also recommend changing sway bars.
I can't give you info on the V1s - no experience, just a happy V3 owner.
They are, as you said, fully adjustable meaning you have the best of both worlds. They are easy to adjust, although adjusting the rears will require the removal of the heater motor and air box in order to gain access.
I also recommend changing sway bars.
I can't give you info on the V1s - no experience, just a happy V3 owner.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
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Right on, yeah the V3's would be great I think... Just maybe a little harder to justify at the moment. The V1's seem very close.
It's my understanding that the Tip tranny prohibits other bars. Any one with a Tip running anything else? Are higher spring rates or valving a substitute?
It's my understanding that the Tip tranny prohibits other bars. Any one with a Tip running anything else? Are higher spring rates or valving a substitute?
#4
Nordschleife Master
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You say you won't bother adjusting the V3s. It takes about 20 minutes. Most of the time being taken up by jacking the car and removing wheels. Once you've got your preferred street settings, which you'll use 80% of the time, you'll just need 20 mins before and after each trackday to do the firming up and re-setting.
Front rebound takes seconds to adjust. With the rear I've found a nice compromise so just leave that one as is so that I don't have to mess about taking parts out of the engine bay.
Front rebound takes seconds to adjust. With the rear I've found a nice compromise so just leave that one as is so that I don't have to mess about taking parts out of the engine bay.
#6
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Can't comment re sway bars in combination with a tip car.
Also, I believe the newest version of the KWs a more easily adjustable - they now come with an simple number ****.
EDIT: Not sure the simple **** is available on all variants... not that the old way was difficult any how.
Also, I believe the newest version of the KWs a more easily adjustable - they now come with an simple number ****.
EDIT: Not sure the simple **** is available on all variants... not that the old way was difficult any how.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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I have V1s on my 964 and had V3s on my wife's TT. On the TT we never changed the V3 settings once they were sorted . I would say the V1s are set up around the middle range of the V3s and are exactly where I would want them for a fast street car.
Last edited by SuperUser; 02-21-2012 at 10:25 PM.
#9
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Well the V3's are a great choice - I've got them and they're excellent - and the valving is just awesome. I uprated the front main springs a little to 229lbs since the fronts seemed a little soft to me.
If you're good with your hands and can do stuff by touch/feel, you won't have to remove as much, in fact I adjusted mine (rebound and bump) without pulling anything, not wheels and not airbox. Basically I just laid down next to the car, got into a zen place, and felt for the lower adjusting keyway. I did have to cut an allen head wrench down to fit it in behind the airbox with room to turn it, and I do have a cup heater bypass in place on the left side of the motor rather than the big fan.
One thing about these KW's is, small changes make big differences. Good luck with your decision!
If you're good with your hands and can do stuff by touch/feel, you won't have to remove as much, in fact I adjusted mine (rebound and bump) without pulling anything, not wheels and not airbox. Basically I just laid down next to the car, got into a zen place, and felt for the lower adjusting keyway. I did have to cut an allen head wrench down to fit it in behind the airbox with room to turn it, and I do have a cup heater bypass in place on the left side of the motor rather than the big fan.
One thing about these KW's is, small changes make big differences. Good luck with your decision!
#10
Nordschleife Master
#11
Burning Brakes
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I spoke with KW and found them very helpful, they would, if asked change to stronger springs but I did not see the point. I chose the V1's and they are very well set up, firm at slow speeds but great as the speeds rise, an optimised V3 as explained by KW. I am in the same camp as you, I cannot be bothered with adjustments, I've had them before and never used them, the cost difference was also welcome.
I installed new anti roll bars (H&R) and the difference really surprised me, it is as noticeable as the new shocks. I think they are listed for Targa and Cab, easy enough to check this.
PS to Steve. No more run/starting issues since I saw you Monday...very odd!
I installed new anti roll bars (H&R) and the difference really surprised me, it is as noticeable as the new shocks. I think they are listed for Targa and Cab, easy enough to check this.
PS to Steve. No more run/starting issues since I saw you Monday...very odd!
#12
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Hello,
I'm trying to figure out a suspension to go with my Tip car. I was about to pull the trigger on the KW V1's but I get the impression they are a little soft for tracking. Assuming it's true the spring rates are 170/440, might the V1's with 225-250lbs spec'd springs up front acheive the slightly stiffer 'compromise' without ruining the balance?
Thanks
I'm trying to figure out a suspension to go with my Tip car. I was about to pull the trigger on the KW V1's but I get the impression they are a little soft for tracking. Assuming it's true the spring rates are 170/440, might the V1's with 225-250lbs spec'd springs up front acheive the slightly stiffer 'compromise' without ruining the balance?
Thanks
Parallel to a recent discussion* on KW Clubsports, KW seems to have the tendency of selecting front suspension frequencies at a notably lower level in relation to the back when compared to (the balance of) other 964 suspension setups. This goes for standard C2 suspension all the way up to H&R supercup, factory RSR springs as well as Ohlins RSR setup.
40-45 N/mm or 229 - 257 lbs/inch should indeed make a marked improvement in frequency Balance.....55 - 60 N/mm being in line with the other suspension setups mentioned.
* https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ml#post9263880
#13
Burning Brakes
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Not much point in talking about springs in isolation, both V1 and V3 systems work very well according to the feedback no matter the spring rates are different to others. The spring rates for the V3 as fitted to an RS are 170/515.
KW did say they would supply either system with stiffer springs if needed but really for mainly road driving why bother.
KW did say they would supply either system with stiffer springs if needed but really for mainly road driving why bother.
#14