Can't shift into 1st or reverse
#1
Racer
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I can't shift into gear from a standing still position (with the car running) unless I put my foot hard, i mean hard to the floor. The clutch has no resistance until at least halfway. I had a new clutch(all 996 GT2 components) installed 70,000 miles ago. I have 212,000 miles on the car and from the records it looks like the role pin was replaced at 32,000 miles and the master cylinder replaced at 107,500. The slave has never been replaced. The Hydraulic fluid level is fine. Anyone have any ideas?
Thank You
Peter
Thank You
Peter
#2
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Do you work on your own car? It sounds like you should bleed the clutch system... but first check that your hydraulic reservoir hasn't lost fluid. As a safety measure, the clutch hydraulic pickup is higher than the braking system, so if something is leaking your clutch will display your exact symptoms.
If the fluid level is normal, then you should bleed the clutch circuit. Search here for how-tos or I can walk you through it.
If the fluid level is normal, then you should bleed the clutch circuit. Search here for how-tos or I can walk you through it.
#4
Racer
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Tom, I don't work on my car except for very minor stuff. I have never bleed the Hydraulics, not sure of i need some special equipment to do so, i would guess i would. But it sounds like a good place to start. The
Hydraulic fluid level is normal.
Vandit - I am not sure that i could tell but the engine seems visually to be at its normal position.
Thank you
Hydraulic fluid level is normal.
Vandit - I am not sure that i could tell but the engine seems visually to be at its normal position.
Thank you
#5
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In theory I believe you can bleed the clutch with wrench and a length of tubing. Pressure bleeders are nice but if you are just doing this then it might be overkill. Someone correct me if I'm wrong (I've always used a Motive).
The tail pipe might appear to have a larger gap than normal if your mounts fail unless it's been adjusted.
I think I'd start with a clutch bleed and go from there.
The tail pipe might appear to have a larger gap than normal if your mounts fail unless it's been adjusted.
I think I'd start with a clutch bleed and go from there.
#6
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+1, if your fluid level is normal, then you probably need to move on to a clutch system bleed. It is possible that your slave has failed... It's not a difficult repair, but if you don't do your own work, it means you need to get under the car and reach up on top of the transmission to access a couple of bolts. If you're into trying, and if you have basic tools, it can be done. (Ramps, jackstands, and a 13MM wrench...) Let me know if you want detailed instructions and we can coach you through it. Think of the money you'll save! :-)
Otherwise your mechanic can get after it without too much trouble.
Otherwise your mechanic can get after it without too much trouble.
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In theory I believe you can bleed the clutch with wrench and a length of tubing. Pressure bleeders are nice but if you are just doing this then it might be overkill. Someone correct me if I'm wrong (I've always used a Motive).
The tail pipe might appear to have a larger gap than normal if your mounts fail unless it's been adjusted.
I think I'd start with a clutch bleed and go from there.
The tail pipe might appear to have a larger gap than normal if your mounts fail unless it's been adjusted.
I think I'd start with a clutch bleed and go from there.
Tools ALWAYS come in handy. You might think "why buy this particular tool, I'm only going to use it for this one project", believe me, they'll save your butt in the future.
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#8
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Epilogue – I brought the car (not an easy drive) down to the shop. Turned out to be the two least expensive things it could have been, the clutch roll pin and a leaky slave hydraulic line. I think that most of it was due to the roll pin as it was very much an “all of a sudden” change but it also has been a while since the clutch pedal returned so decisively to the top. The 964 drives great, love having it back and driving top notch once again, fast, responsive and silky smooth. It’s nice to be an involved driver once again. Like that old girlfriend, you don’t remember how good it is until she’s gone, ha, ha
#9
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I'm pretty sure that as he has a C4, there are the extra PDAS complictations bleeding the clutch. The only difficult part about flushing a C2 is reaching up to the slave cylinder bleed nipple, proper Hammer tools are needed to flush the LSD lines.
It sounds like it could be a slave problem, or a bad hose, but unless the fluid has gotten low, or is old, i would keep looking.
+1 On checking Engine Mounts, or shift linkage guide tube bushings. Hopefully it just needs bleeding. I do most of my own work, but flushing C4 boosted system goes to a P-Car wrench, who has the tools and has experience with 964 C4 systems.
Good Luck
It sounds like it could be a slave problem, or a bad hose, but unless the fluid has gotten low, or is old, i would keep looking.
+1 On checking Engine Mounts, or shift linkage guide tube bushings. Hopefully it just needs bleeding. I do most of my own work, but flushing C4 boosted system goes to a P-Car wrench, who has the tools and has experience with 964 C4 systems.
Good Luck
#10
Nordschleife Master
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A 200k mile/19 year-old slave raised my eyebrow.
(The elastomer god, Rottus, smiles slyly seeing your name in his future appointments calender.)![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
It's a cheapish part ($80ish, as I recall) you might consider at next tuneup.
My first went south around 100k/13 yrs-old.
Hang in there, dude!
(The elastomer god, Rottus, smiles slyly seeing your name in his future appointments calender.)
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
It's a cheapish part ($80ish, as I recall) you might consider at next tuneup.
My first went south around 100k/13 yrs-old.
Hang in there, dude!