jody stowitts

Check engine lid light in the dark with lid closed (night), as it may be ON. Rubber boot over switch gets very stiff from continuous heat and wont let switch open up to shut off light. Does your alarm circuit throw a (double flash) of the red door buttons when you lock the car indicating a closed circuit and a small batt. drain? Happened to me.

jody stowitts

Correction, (wont let switch CLOSE) .

gristle101

Sorry, are you saying that when the door lock indicators flash twice (while the car is locked), that is indicative of the battery drain? Whaaa? Never heard this before; I assumed it meant that the anti-theft system was armed.

Vandit

Yea, i''m not sure about the door lock indicator flashing... I know that when you first lock the car, it flashes fast then after several moments it goes to a more leisurely flash pace.

jody stowitts

Ten seconds after locking, red diodes will give "quick DOUBLE flashes" if there is an open circuit. i.e., if a light is still on or glove compt. open. or if no rear seat model has open cubby hole doors, radio, doors, etc. To quote the owners manual: "If the LED's do not flash when the car is locked, or change to double-flashing signal after 10 seconds, not all of the alarm contacts have been closed".

Vandit

That is very interesting....

So a double flash immediately after locking followed by a slow flash after 10 seconds is good, or bad?

Do you have a listing of all alarm contacts on the car?

gristle101

Wow. Mine double flashes, but I was already aware of some battery drain in mine. The backlight for the OBC inside the tach stays on indefinitely in my car. This will drain the battery in about 10 days. I drive the car about twice a week so I'm not bothered enough to crack it open and re-solder the thing... funny enough, changing the incandescent bulb (~.7 Watt) to an LED would probably fix the battery drain despite the fact that I haven't really fixed anything...

Anyway. There is no contact open in my case but do you believe from what you have read in the manual that this is the cause of my "double flash"? Seems reasonable, a microprocessor within the fuse board could easily detect drain like this. I would look it up myself but I don't actually have a manual yet... anyone got a useless spare?

jody stowitts

Vandit: Items monitored by alarm are: doors, engine & trunk lid lights, glove compartment, rear stowage compartment doors (rear seats delete), radio, immobilizing circuit in ignition, interior lights.

Vandit

Mine probably does the momentary quick flash due to my lack of a radio.

bmohr

my electric system is a mess. I can't figure out just what is going on because my car has no trunk light, no engine bay light, passenger door microswitch out, wonky steering stalk (causes high beems to flash on) and no ash tray light?...so I have no clue what my true culprit is. I thought it was the front blower, but even after removing the fuse #1 it still drains down to half in one night. At this point I'm either going to have my indy install a cut out switch or see if they can track it down without killing my bank account. Oh and I tried figuring out the drawl with my multimeter and pulling fuses but couldn't find the culprit.

Tokyo Joe

So I'm not alone on this same mystery problem with my car - got to the point I disconnect the battery when I park it away for several days.

Some good pointers here for me to also check, especially as my Indie is now scratching his head. Will report in when and if, we ever find the reason why.

Apart from that, love it

TJ

964Lovac

Interesting, mine doesn't always go on. More often than not it doesn't go on. Works almost every time with the passenger door. how involved is the fix?

Yeah that is what I have begun to do, takes a little more time but rather not kill the battery dead!

cypresscoast

Take her for a spin and let her warm up pretty good. Then, after you return home, shut the engine off and see if the rear blower motor/fan is still running?

I had this problem twice during the first three years I owned the car and learned that the the blower was running, not shutting off and draining the battery. Cause: Rear Blower Relay ~ part# 811-951-253

Wouldn't hurt to also replace the DME Relay as it could be leaving the loop open? Part # 993-615-227-01


Good luck!

jody stowitts

bmohr: Just start sequentially pulling and replacing fuses while putting a ohmeter/voltmeter between battery positive and a ground with battery ground disconnected and see if there is a draw. You"ll eventually track down the short. I'm not CERTAIN if the meter connections are CORRECT !! Someone jump in here who KNOWS for sure how to hook up the meter to show if there is a voltage draw. I wont say "good luck", because this procedure is all logic, either IS or ISN'T. Electric schematic is under lid of fuse box.

AKB991

I know this is old but my problem is new; 91 964 C4 - local P shop found faulty switch at the driver's side door causing battery drain - fixed switch and all was well. Car sat too much ( winter ) and battery would die after 3 days so I got her on an a CTEK battery -worked great and do not forget to lock the doors when you use the tender ! Worked great till... I went w/ the LED light upgrade and now battery is in the toilet again. Have to assume problem w/ lighting connections- question, I now have NO front lights plugged in at all and on the tender- shouldn't the battery charge up ? In other words, does it matter that nothing is plugged in at the front lights ? That fact ought not affect a battery's ability to take a charge right? Trying to figure out if I just need a new battery but since all was well till I tinkered w/ the lights...Thanks all.