Rocket Rob

Yes. Note: The Scantool can do nearly all of what the factory "hammer". The only thing is doesn't do is bleeding the PDAS locks.

wicks

Hmm, I'm finding conflicting info. Maybe it's this one that I actually need for a 1994 3.6 turbo?

https://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php...ription_tabbed

Spyerx

964 uses round ODBI connector.

I have these tools PM me if you want to drive down to the end of the 605.

I suspect your CCU fan is not turning off. Very common.

wicks

Have found this info from a 12 year old thread where CLIVE read up on the flashing facts, and it seems clear here that my alarm is checking all the alarm-related circuits and operating correctly (20-ish faster single flashes then slower flashes), which would mean that my battery drain issue is not coming from any of these light and door circuits:

---

OK. Took some time to read up on this with the workshop manuals / diagnotic stuff and the Owners guide.

First the rear seat delete (option code 419) with an alarm capability is probably only for the Cabriolets (as coupes and targas already have a perimeter system called "the doors"...)

Next, the LED's will either - No flash, Slow flash, Fast flash or Double flash.

under these conditions:

1) No flash

= Doors are unlocked and system not armed
= A fault is detected during the Arm period (about 10 -15 secs?)

2) Slow flash

= Doors locked, alarm system is on

3) Fast Flash

= No fault condition is detected during the self check (Arming period - about 10-15 secs?)

4) Double flash

= System set by locking doors (with key!) three times in rapid succession (emergency lock when remote is dead?)
= A fault was detected during the self check (Arming time )
= The alarm was triggered at least once (should only see this when returning to vehicle! - hopefully never!!)

As said before the system checks (when arming) - the door switches (BOTH the lock microswitches and the pin switches in the body frame) - the front trunk - the engine bay - the glovebox - the radio (if you have an orignal) - and the rear seat delete (probably only Cabs).

If anyone of these is "open" (in the sense of not shut properly!) then the alarm will sense a fault and you should see no flashing for a while during arm, then double flashing of the LED's after about 10-15 secs.

NORMAL operation would be LED's flash (fast) for a short time while while system self checks (and arms) and then slow flash.

I had misread mkborows post at the top of this page - sorry (I saw "double" blink and mised the "normal" afterwards)..

Double blink is definite (two quick flashes in succession then a pause) and is the visual key that something is wrong.

Hope that helps folks...

Clive.

wicks

Here's what the meters are showing on positive terminal in series by BFX instructions. Nothing changes if I remove fuse 1. Nothing is getting power though - the meter doesn't seem to be passing any real current.

ToreB

Your HSP10 multimeter is incorrectly set to DC voltage measurement. However, if you set it to DC current, (DCA) you will destroy it, its maximum is 250mA, which is way under the initial current draw in the car. As I mention in my DIY , I recommend using a 10A amperemeter.

Your clamp multimeter can only measure alternating current, (AC) you need a direct current amperemeter. I would advice to have an electrician to look into this for you, rather than risking any damage in your endeavours.

As for the diagnostic features, you will need both a 19-pin adapter as well as the T-OBD. Yes, the scantool freeware will be able to read out any fault codes in the alarm control unit.
Cheers,
Tore

wicks

Oh woops. Yeah I knew none of these meters I have are right - new 10Amp one is on the way! I will re-do, and test all the fuses for drop and such. Used to know electrics a bit, been too long...

Have read many things about CCU fan - I can get a finger on it under the dash and it doesn't seem to stay on. Will examine further as well. It does seem to shut off 5-7 seconds after ignition off, just listening with an ear close.

Bought your T-OBD and adapter - does anyone know if scantool will run correctly in virtualbox or other windows virtual machine on a mac?

Spyerx

wicks

Ordered a refurb Thinkpad to use with the Bergvill gear. Back to parasitic drain: here's what I get with the correct 10amp meter:

Testing with 10AMP meter:
.257 in current with lamp switches closed. Battery disconnect switch takes that to zero. (My car has one from a PO)

FUSES:

Fuse / Current when pulled / Current reduction / Fuse circuit
7 / .240 / .017 / Cigar lighter
12 / .245 / .012 / Clock, diag, rear wiper, hazards
38 / .251 / .006 / Radio, booster
33 - just some weird action Right turn signals
All other fuses make NO CHANGE when pulled, including fuse #1.

Engine bay fuse panel flat wire connector (toward fender) reduced current to .248
No relays or fuses in the engine bay changed the current drain of .257.

RELAYS:

-After ignition switch brief on, sunroof relay sticks. Draw increases to .443. If push sunroof switch forward (close direction), relay turns off and current returns to .257
-Relay 63 missing - Daytime Running Lights (running lights work)
-Relay 44 missing - Cat Monitor
No relays make a change in current draw except sunroof relay, when it occasionally sticks. It may "unstick" after a while, who knows. But it's not the source of my baseline draw of .257.

Various observations:

.258 with doors locked (alarm blinking), flashes to .272 occasionally
2.350 with the interior lamps on
.517 with glove box light on
.971 w engine lid light on

? >> Also wondering if there could be something off the battery directly, so examining the Hella battery cutoff switch, there are double big battery leads coming off that switch going down under the fuel tank - in a paired wrapper which looks remarkably original. There are also two smaller wires, a pair of them traveling together, going back around the front of the frunk and into a larger fabric-wrapped harness that goes through the right side of the fender and isn't visible from the other side without removing the inner fender plastics. Does that sound like an original pair of wires? Wonder what they would go to non-fused, non-relayed.

? >> Pulled the radio and found the "green wire" that people talk about a lot. It was just tucked to the right side of the metal slide the radio sits in. Perhaps the car had an aftermarket radio at one point and this was left off? I don't see a spot where that is meant to plug in (it has connector on it still. Original radio, with the switch on top of it. Where is the tab this wire plugs on? Googling, searching...



STUMPED!!!

wicks

And here's 1) the green wire and 2) the "extra" pair of wires coming off battery cutoff switch (maybe these are to the fuse box and the big battery cables go to the starter?):

Spyerx

Those look factory. Can you try this:
hook up battery normally
Keep hood open, but press the hood switch/lock the hood latch so light goes off.
Lock the car, and let it sit for 30 mins or so to allow CCU fan to turn off, etc
Pull each fuse, 1 by 1
Measure current draw across each fuse (put meter on the 2 contacts of the fuse)
If you don't find the draw
It could be the alarm module, or CCU
Try to physically unplug these and see what happens and if you still have the draw
The alarm module is under the passenger seat
The CCU you can remove with 4 small screwdrivers or coat hanger bent in a U, then push from back side

wicks

Spyerx - but wouldn't the CCU be ruled out by way of pulling fuse 1? Or is fuse 1 just the "blower attached to the CCU"?

The CCU and alarm module have direct, non-fused power?

Spyerx

Torre would know for sure. I believe Alarm has unfused but don' have schematic handy.
The known typical draws are alarm module, lights staying on, and CCU. I think further eliminating those completely will help with the search.

-nick

The CCU does get 12v directly from the battery which I believe runs the internal fan. That fan can pull >200mA.

For posterity, current drains measured on my Fluke meter. Numbers are in mA (milliamps). 1991 C4.
9.5 aftermarket basic keyless entry system
2 clock, fuse #12
1.3 DME memory, fuse #35
0.4 ABS memory, fuse #16
0.5 Radio memory, fuse #38
1-5 Alarm activated, LED door locks blinking
87 Alarm module internal power window relay energized, turns off when door is opened
93 LED festoon center dome light
>200 CCU internal fan before shutting off (not measured by me)
1.5-2.3 Aftermarket battery monitor, 1.5-2 idle, 2.3 when connected to bluetooth

11.8 Total current draw in storage, alarm off, keyless entry off
12.5-17.5 Total current draw in storage, alarm on, keyless entry off

wicks

Interesting -nick. So the fuse (#1) is for looks only? I'll also try unplugging the CCU and the alarm module later and see if any effect. I'd hate to have to disassemble the entire wiring system of the car trying to find what is sapping .257 from my battery...

Does anyone know what I should do with the GREEN WIRE at the stereo head unit? There doesn't seem to be a tab for it to plug in to.