Blower Motor Supplier???
08-03-2011, 06:49 PM
#1
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Blower Motor Supplier???
I need a Rt side blower motor part#964-572-016-01... Pelican has it for $970... Seems a bit pricey for a 15 amp electric motor...
08-03-2011, 07:31 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
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I'm just gonna go out on a limb here and say that may be an understatement.
I bought a used one the first of the year for $125 and it's been working perfectly. I think used ones will become very hard to find as the originals continue to fail. Based on multiple other posts, it looks like 20 years is about their limit. You should inquire if it's from a low miles car if you go the used route and can find more than one. I only found a couple and the other one was about $150 IIRC. They're really not THAT hard to replace, and you could go through 8+ used ones for $970.
If you happen to come out west, give me a call. I'd like to see your car and trade stories, if you're interested. Nice wheels!
I bought a used one the first of the year for $125 and it's been working perfectly. I think used ones will become very hard to find as the originals continue to fail. Based on multiple other posts, it looks like 20 years is about their limit. You should inquire if it's from a low miles car if you go the used route and can find more than one. I only found a couple and the other one was about $150 IIRC. They're really not THAT hard to replace, and you could go through 8+ used ones for $970.
If you happen to come out west, give me a call. I'd like to see your car and trade stories, if you're interested. Nice wheels!
08-03-2011, 08:28 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
Dan I just replace my left one on my 91 964, I bought the whole unit from a low mile 993, so I have the right one that i dont need at this time, call me or pm me and we will work something out, I will pay for the shipping! 
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08-03-2011, 08:48 PM
#8
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Yes, there's a very good one out there, I just can't remember where.
Some additioinal bits of advice after you find it:
Some additioinal bits of advice after you find it:
Watch out for those little spring clips that hold the two pieces of housing together when you're removing them. They tend to fly off into space, or into the deep dark crevices of the trunk, never to be found again. Cover them with your hand, and a magnet in your palm is a good trick to hang onto them.
You sometimes have to fidget with the hacksaw blades or other tools you use that have to be inserted into the slots in order to release the spring clips holding the motor in place. I had better luck with small screwdrivers than with the hacksaw blades.
Note the orientation of the motor in the housing during removal, and the orientation of the rubber shims on the motor when you get it out.
If an early model, there are no screws holding the plate (the one that's between the squirrel cage and the motor) to the housing. When going back with the replacement motor/fan, the plate will likely have the holes. Test fit the motor/fan, mark the locations of the two holes on the housing, remove the motor/fan, and pre-drill the holes in your housing - smaller than the holes in the plate, to allow the screws to catch in the housing but rotate freely in the plate.
Carefully select screws to be oval head, smallest possible to fit and grip in the housing. Round heads will likely rub on the fan.
Also, when going back in with replacement, make sure you have the rubber shims firmly and correctly seated. Carefully pull the over-length wire out of the housing as you fit the motor/fan. If you don't, it tends to get wadded up in back of the motor.
Good luck.
You sometimes have to fidget with the hacksaw blades or other tools you use that have to be inserted into the slots in order to release the spring clips holding the motor in place. I had better luck with small screwdrivers than with the hacksaw blades.
Note the orientation of the motor in the housing during removal, and the orientation of the rubber shims on the motor when you get it out.
If an early model, there are no screws holding the plate (the one that's between the squirrel cage and the motor) to the housing. When going back with the replacement motor/fan, the plate will likely have the holes. Test fit the motor/fan, mark the locations of the two holes on the housing, remove the motor/fan, and pre-drill the holes in your housing - smaller than the holes in the plate, to allow the screws to catch in the housing but rotate freely in the plate.
Carefully select screws to be oval head, smallest possible to fit and grip in the housing. Round heads will likely rub on the fan.
Also, when going back in with replacement, make sure you have the rubber shims firmly and correctly seated. Carefully pull the over-length wire out of the housing as you fit the motor/fan. If you don't, it tends to get wadded up in back of the motor.
08-03-2011, 08:54 PM
#9
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Here ya go...................
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...nt-dash-3.html
All the good stuff is a few pages in.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...nt-dash-3.html
All the good stuff is a few pages in.
08-04-2011, 02:01 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
I wonder what's failing... is it the brushes, the stator? My father has successfully been rebuilding motors for a while,(Rebuilt a dentist drill motor from 1890... works perfectly now) and I wonder if we can make a reconditioning kit? I took a look at mine when they were out recently (total A/C redo that required I pull the airbox) and it seems that the brushes cause the stator to wear out...which is a bad sign. Easier to reproduce brushes... and bearings.
Any thoughts?
I'd love to find a 'new" replacement motor somewhere. There has to be a way. If I was able to find a bolt-in replacement for a 30 year old Fiat turbo unit, there must be a motor that could work in this application. :-)
Any thoughts?
I'd love to find a 'new" replacement motor somewhere. There has to be a way. If I was able to find a bolt-in replacement for a 30 year old Fiat turbo unit, there must be a motor that could work in this application. :-)
08-04-2011, 03:27 AM
#11
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With new replacements in the $900 range, I think you could make a few bucks if you are able to recondition these. I believe the problem in R & R of the brushes and stator will be with disturbing the sintered bearings.
08-04-2011, 10:35 AM
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When I had to replace mine I bought 2 used for the same side from DC automotive, one failed and had to be removed the other worked perfectly, so for 450 u$s (225 dollars each) I solved the issue
08-04-2011, 12:52 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
I pulled my squeaky left-side motor out last month and oiled the bearings with no luck. Now have a used one on its way. $970 is ludicrous. I think there is a thread from '05 or so saying that they were $129.
Supply and demand...
Supply and demand...