Driving at speed makes the fan operation redundant. After about 40mph, there is more than enough air coming through the bumper that the fan's additional cooling impact is non-existent.

If you want to see the fan's effect on the car's operating temp, you need to observe it while stationary.

 

1/4 watt should be fine. This is just a signal wire, no load on it to speak of.

Regarding enough air... for normal use yes. I only see the needle creep up in slow traffic on hot days. the mod I did fixes that, I also wired in the switch.

But on track days, I still see escalated temps when it's really hot out. I'm adding a 2nd oil cooler, well, because at some point I'll be building the motor too :-) And cool oil makes for happy motor.

 

But that's going to happen whether the fan is running, not running, or missing entirely.

You know folks with dedicated track cars (i.e. will never see a traffic jam) run with no fan in order to reduce airflow obstruction to the cooler?

Outside of the scope of the original discussion, have you checked to see if the bumper sealing wedges are still intact behind the bumper? If they haven't been replaced in the last decade, chances are they have turned to dust and crumbled away. That means that the bumper airflow management Porsche designed into the car is no longer functioning and air is escaping around the cooler rather than being forced through cooler, causing a major detriment to the efficiency of the oil cooler.

 

yes, not a dedicated track car. and yes the bumper bits are there and functional.
those are the compromises of a non-dedicated car for dual use.
hence the dual cooler and additional ducting

 

^^ thanks both Spyderx & Vandit ....

 

For high speed runs I've also seen the exact opposite (i believe it was Ruf) with the bumper opening sealed and the fan on high.

 

I'm am thinking that is an even more specialized scenario where RUF was more worried about aerodynamic drag, sealed off the factory intake, and then used the fan to move air from a source that was more advantageous....aerodynamically.

Thoughts?

If so, that's even more far afield from typical use by mere mortals...

 

Nardo Ring track day best practices.

 

5 cent resistor and a little soldering later...

This is the connector in the frunk bulkhead next to the fuse box. Easier to access than the oil cooler. Connector cover fits right back on and works like a charm!







FYI.. this was done on a 92 Targa

 

Bump 😎I need to keep this available Thank You
[img]blob:https://rennlist.com/a38e3249-6356-424c-b4de-ca6960af2ebc[/img]

 

This is cool. Maybe I missed it earlier in this thread but what is the resistance of the resister and which terminals are being connected? It simply results in the fan coming on sooner, correct?

 

Link to my T34 connector frunk mod with diagram, posted in 2015.

https://rennlist.com/forums/rennlist...d.php?t=888069

If you don't like to solder an original connector I have another solution.

 

I used a 2,2k ohm, 1/2watt resistor, soldered in parallel with the line from the oil cooler temp sensor, as detailed in the initial post of the thread. It kicks in the fan at a slightly lower temp.

Simple fix to keep temps down. This is more temporary for me until I remove the whole setup for something brushless and pwm controlled. Save a little juice and quieter

 

Did this mod today temp outside 93 f Oil temp gauge never went above 9 o’clock while driving hard THANK YOU! OP

 

Thanks guys. You had enough room to solder the resister to the body mounted portion of the connector in situ?

What's your no-solder solution?