alanp

Interesting mod but confused if it is really needed. After having my motor rebuilt recently (Performance Auto) I talked to Peter, who does the rebulds, concerning this temp issue and if a mod or remote switch is needed to keep things cool.
He stated the low speed fan engages at 200 degrees and high speed around 220. This seems about right as my temp runs right at the 8 o-clock mark (194) during normal driving and on hot days when it creeps past that mark...it drops as the fan kicks on.
Just my observation...any more feedback would be great.

Laker

I think that may be the thermostat opening and letting cool oil into the mix.

I've only heard my fan on a couple of times but wished it kicked on a lot more often while in traffic.

this it what I am basing the stock on:
(stolen from here)

Vandit

I'm in Texas, 100+ degrees for most of this summer, and whenever I end up having to sit in traffic, my temp will shoot up to almost 10:00 (248 degrees) then it'll stay somewhere between 9-10:00 until I start moving again.

I plan on doing this mod, I already purchased the resistors, I just haven't taken the time to remove the bumper since I also want to replace the front grille and maybe install some fog light ducts all at the same time so that i'm not removing the bumper a bunch of times.

Thank you for the pics!

Laker

no need to remove the bumper for this job, just the right front wheel and the forward mudguard.

Navaros911

I can feel another project coming up in this 120 degree heat...

Will it ever stop?

Thanks for the guide...

ja78911sc

Laker,

Have you tested the mod via a laser temp gauge? I shot my cooler with a laser temp gauge and the first speed would kick on around 230F without this mod.

I am preparing to do the same mod and would like to know your results.

Thanks,
Jim

Laker

No time until next weekend to try it out and note temperatures, sorry

Gregg-K

This mod could be done at the CCU end of the NTC lead instead ... is that any more easily accessible than at the NTC in the fender well?

... Gregg

Laker

More weatherproof for sure. Not sure about ease. This was easy.

Laker

here's my update. Fan kicked on, then I took these pictures.

anto1150

did you also check the resistor's temperature?

Laker

no, resistor is all wrapped up under electrical tape and the rubber boot.

anto1150

would be interesting to know if it gets hot...

cjoenck

It won't get hot from any electrical current. This is a signal wire with low ampere / watts running through it. That's why you don't have a fuse in this line either.
Soldering the resistor on this end is less risky than on the CCU side if you don't solder very often. Soldering to CCU board can create $500 - $1000 damage from the soldering heat. If you fry the plug on the other end, it will be less expensive....

mojorizing

I'm thinking of doing this mod, but soldering the resistor between G12 and G18 of the CCU PCB. Remove the CCU from the dash, remove the PCB's from the CCU case, solder the resistor to the outside of the board - no need to split the PCB's.