I soldered the resister in the connector plenty of room

 

So the opposite of what Ubipa did? You soldered to the male pins not the female body side of the connector ?

 

yes back side the male pins. I pulled the connector off the bracket then popped the top cap off. I left the connector plugged in to the female side figured that would help the pins not coming out

 

This thread really helped me so I'll try to add something in return -

I started with a 2.2k resistor - double checked its color band code.





Next I pulled the frunk carpet back near Central Electric and removed the back cover off the 12 position connector. Note you don't actually have to unplug the connector but it may be easier if you do.



Then I removed the cover off the outer portion of the connector, revealing the female pins and the wires connected to them.



At this point you can simply (or by accident) pull the female pins out, towards the outside of the car.





Then I referred to pictures posted in this thread to make sure I knew which pins the resistor was to bridge. I checked these against the wiring diagram.





Now comes the only skilled part. Note that each pin has a through hole and that solder is added and can be removed from the top, perpendicular to the through hole. Heat the solder thru the TOP and pull the existing wires out of the relevant pins. I don't have a pic of that step but I do have a pic of the next which is to use the same technique in reverse to install the resistor onto the two removed pins. Check that the length is about right, the excess resistor leg gets trimmed at the end. The hardest part is getting the wires back into the pins with the resistor in place. My wife helped keep pressure on the wire pointing into the pin hole while I held the pin and heated the solder. When you have the wire in, flow solder into the top of the pin.



Add some electrical tape or heat shrink, trim the excess resistor leg with end cutters, reassemble then enjoy nice oil temps. It's hot and humid in CT today, I drove around town at low speed then idled in the drive with the AC on and the oil stayed put.





Yes I know the glass is cracked

 

Hi !
I was two seconds away from doing this .... the resistors are on the way ; I do feel bad that Radio Shack is well no longer - that just shows my age

This all come about as I replaced my oil cooler front thermostat and breathed life into my fan again and it now comes on exactly @ 9 PM which is a relief from seeing it rise above ten recently:/

Two questions regarding the topics above ( please ) If the prior individual working on the car may have indirectly and inadvertently damaged the thermostat cable close to the “male” side of the connector - is it impossibly difficult to replace the entire cable or would you re-splice and re do from the point of injury ?

If the CCU wa s refreshed by specialized ( most parts renewed and re programmed ) could they not just reprogram it to have the fan come on sooner ? Just a thought .....

i do think our cars running cooler in hot weather is a good thing for the car, the oil and everything else .... it what do I know

 

Great info

 

Sorry for using this post to gather some info for another fan: the blower in the engine compartment.

As far as I know:

The rear blower in the engine compartment should trigger after the ignition is turned off when:

• If the NTC Sensor detects a duct temperature of less than 40°C, the system will not activate.
• If the NTC Sensor detects a duct temperature greater than 40°C but less than 75°C, the rear blower will run at low speed until the temp drops below 40°C.
• If the NTC Sensor detects a duct temperature greater than 75°C, the rear blower will run at high speed until the temp drops below 75°C, then it will switch to low speed until 40°C is reached.

Mine runs as it should but at low and high speeds, but never activates after turning the ignition off. If I unplug the NTC sensor cable, it does stars. By this method, I guess I can confirm it is working, it is just that the temperature is never high enough.

This been said, in my opinion, it will be great to have the blower on for a while after turning the ignition off, especially living in the hot climate of south Spain.

I was thinking on using the same approach as the one used for the oil cooler to kick in earlier by adding a parallel resistor to the NTC sensor explained in this great post.

Information on the NTC sensor from the manual is as follows:

• 0°C – 32°F: 28.8 – 36.4 kOmhs
• 25°C – 77°F: 9.0 – 11.0 kOmhs
• 50°C – 122°F: 3.1 – 4.0 kOmhs

Questions are:

• What are your thoughts?
• What resistor would you recommend?
• Would a rheostat be a good starting point to find out the desired resistance?

Thanks so much for your much appreciated collaboration.

Sincerely,