clinchy993

LOL I see my advice not good enough hey LOL

Bring it round go for walk with Maria and the hounds and I perform surgery whilst your out

You never know

sml

As well as the infamous metal corner, it also looks like it also rubbing on the plastic lining.

Solution: wheel alignment to rectify incorrect caster setting.

apw2007

I missed that post! LOL

BUT your 'good' advice came to nought as it's still rubbing on both sides!

apw2007

I think you maybe onto something here because the bodyshop tells me the front ball joints are adjustable (excuse the terminolgy as I'm ignorant when it comes to the mechanics of a car) they look as though they have recently been moved forward.

The rubbing seems to occur when the wheels are in a straight line and I hit a dip in the road - they catching the wheel arch just above where it meets the bumper.

The car went straight from fitting the KW to having the geometry done so could this be where the problem is?

I'm taking it back to the workshop on Thursday.

sml

Yes.

Mine rubbed on one side but had more clearance on the other .. it was clearly the wheel alignment.

I could visibly see a 5mm difference between clearance on each side.

I watched the wheel alignment specialist adjust the caster and it clearly pulls the wheel backwards and away from that problem area.

Porsche964FP

Rubbing on the inside of the wheel arch under full lock is something you just have to deal with... although the solution is to have the *'blocker bushes' fitted like the RS cars have.

* Some one will chime with the correct name.

I would recommend rolling the arches, grinding that 'metal bit' down and finally have a geometry done.

Also may be worth setting the suspension a bit harder in order to allow less suspension travel and therefore rubbing.

Wheel spacers often cause these problems also.

In my experience even changing tyre brand can effect rubbing, on my 18's with AD08 the tyres rub under very hard driving so I lift 5mm all round.

With my winter 17 Cups no rubbing.... It's all soooo conditional and specific to every car. I even had initial problems with the drive shaft rubbing the thicker H&R sway bar at the front... but that's another story!

Anyway best of luck Andrew and hope to see you at the next London 964 meet... dates are up!

The body work is never perfectly symmetrical - therefore a 5mm difference between the tyre and the wheel arch is irrelevant, this does not mean the ride height is different on either side. In order to measure ride height, one must measure from the floor to a fix point on the chassis itself.

apw2007

# I don't seem to have a problem on full lock (not one I'm aware of)
# Don't have wheel spacers
# Bodyshop says castors have recently been moved forward - assume when geometry was done
# As far as I'm aware the suspension is set to the hardest setting (teeth chattering hard)
# Rubbing is on the flat part of the wheel arch and occurs when the car is going in a straight line and hits a dip in the road - if you look at the picture you can see the black marks on the arch (picture was taken before I chopped the flange off)

Porsche964FP

Ok in that case I recommend changing geometry as you've suggested. Your wheel seems too far forwards. I can send you my geometry set up if you like? It's for hard road/ track.

apw2007

Thanks for the offer! The car was supposed to be set up for exactly and since they charged me £680 for the pleasure I trust they will sort it out!

clinchy993

Those wheels look like they need a clean ?

sml

possibly, but when you can watch the front wheel move rearwards and away from the front guard when adjusting the castor, then it was pretty obvious the castor settings were different on each side. then also confirmed with the castor measurements - before & after.

so anyway, adjusting the castor can move the front wheel away from the guard. should solve your problem (in addition to the usual minor grind on that corner and the usual inside arch scrape on full-lock which i wouldnt worry about).