Tyres rubbing.... HELP from the LOW GUYS!
#33
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#34
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The rubbing seems to occur when the wheels are in a straight line and I hit a dip in the road - they catching the wheel arch just above where it meets the bumper.
The car went straight from fitting the KW to having the geometry done so could this be where the problem is?
I'm taking it back to the workshop on Thursday.
#35
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Mine rubbed on one side but had more clearance on the other .. it was clearly the wheel alignment.
I could visibly see a 5mm difference between clearance on each side.
I watched the wheel alignment specialist adjust the caster and it clearly pulls the wheel backwards and away from that problem area.
#36
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Rubbing on the inside of the wheel arch under full lock is something you just have to deal with... although the solution is to have the *'blocker bushes' fitted like the RS cars have.
* Some one will chime with the correct name.
I would recommend rolling the arches, grinding that 'metal bit' down and finally have a geometry done.
Also may be worth setting the suspension a bit harder in order to allow less suspension travel and therefore rubbing.
Wheel spacers often cause these problems also.
In my experience even changing tyre brand can effect rubbing, on my 18's with AD08 the tyres rub under very hard driving so I lift 5mm all round.
With my winter 17 Cups no rubbing.... It's all soooo conditional and specific to every car. I even had initial problems with the drive shaft rubbing the thicker H&R sway bar at the front... but that's another story!
Anyway best of luck Andrew and hope to see you at the next London 964 meet... dates are up!
The body work is never perfectly symmetrical - therefore a 5mm difference between the tyre and the wheel arch is irrelevant, this does not mean the ride height is different on either side. In order to measure ride height, one must measure from the floor to a fix point on the chassis itself.
* Some one will chime with the correct name.
I think you maybe onto something here because the bodyshop tells me the front ball joints are adjustable (excuse the terminolgy as I'm ignorant when it comes to the mechanics of a car) they look as though they have recently been moved forward.
The rubbing seems to occur when the wheels are in a straight line and I hit a dip in the road - they catching the wheel arch just above where it meets the bumper.
The car went straight from fitting the KW to having the geometry done so could this be where the problem is?
I'm taking it back to the workshop on Thursday.
The rubbing seems to occur when the wheels are in a straight line and I hit a dip in the road - they catching the wheel arch just above where it meets the bumper.
The car went straight from fitting the KW to having the geometry done so could this be where the problem is?
I'm taking it back to the workshop on Thursday.
Also may be worth setting the suspension a bit harder in order to allow less suspension travel and therefore rubbing.
Wheel spacers often cause these problems also.
In my experience even changing tyre brand can effect rubbing, on my 18's with AD08 the tyres rub under very hard driving so I lift 5mm all round.
With my winter 17 Cups no rubbing.... It's all soooo conditional and specific to every car. I even had initial problems with the drive shaft rubbing the thicker H&R sway bar at the front... but that's another story!
Anyway best of luck Andrew and hope to see you at the next London 964 meet... dates are up!
Yes.
Mine rubbed on one side but had more clearance on the other .. it was clearly the wheel alignment.
I could visibly see a 5mm difference between clearance on each side.
I watched the wheel alignment specialist adjust the caster and it clearly pulls the wheel backwards and away from that problem area.
Mine rubbed on one side but had more clearance on the other .. it was clearly the wheel alignment.
I could visibly see a 5mm difference between clearance on each side.
I watched the wheel alignment specialist adjust the caster and it clearly pulls the wheel backwards and away from that problem area.
#37
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# I don't seem to have a problem on full lock (not one I'm aware of)
# Don't have wheel spacers
# Bodyshop says castors have recently been moved forward - assume when geometry was done
# As far as I'm aware the suspension is set to the hardest setting (teeth chattering hard)
# Rubbing is on the flat part of the wheel arch and occurs when the car is going in a straight line and hits a dip in the road - if you look at the picture you can see the black marks on the arch (picture was taken before I chopped the flange off)
# Don't have wheel spacers
# Bodyshop says castors have recently been moved forward - assume when geometry was done
# As far as I'm aware the suspension is set to the hardest setting (teeth chattering hard)
# Rubbing is on the flat part of the wheel arch and occurs when the car is going in a straight line and hits a dip in the road - if you look at the picture you can see the black marks on the arch (picture was taken before I chopped the flange off)
Last edited by apw2007; 03-10-2012 at 08:36 AM.
#38
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# I don't seem to have a problem on full lock (not one I'm aware of)
# Don't have wheel spacers
# Bodyshop says castors have recently been moved forward - assume when geometry was done
# As far as I'm aware the suspension is set to the hardest setting (teeth chattering hard)
# Rubbing is on the flat part of the wheel arch and occurs when the car is going in a straight line and hits a dip in the road - if you look at the picture you can see the black marks on the arch (picture was taken before I chopped the flange off)
# Don't have wheel spacers
# Bodyshop says castors have recently been moved forward - assume when geometry was done
# As far as I'm aware the suspension is set to the hardest setting (teeth chattering hard)
# Rubbing is on the flat part of the wheel arch and occurs when the car is going in a straight line and hits a dip in the road - if you look at the picture you can see the black marks on the arch (picture was taken before I chopped the flange off)
#39
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Thanks for the offer! The car was supposed to be set up for exactly and since they charged me £680 for the pleasure I trust they will sort it out!
#40
#41
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so anyway, adjusting the castor can move the front wheel away from the guard. should solve your problem (in addition to the usual minor grind on that corner and the usual inside arch scrape on full-lock which i wouldnt worry about).