Engine Drop on a C4 / Differential Lock / Too many projects!
03-28-2010, 09:03 PM
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Engine Drop on a C4 / Differential Lock / Too many projects!
About a week ago, the clutch went south, I suspect due to to a throwout bearing. I had intended to drop the engine today in my C4 but ran into a few issues while doing some disconnects. I'd appreciate knowing if there is a trick.
I'm having trouble doing two things: removing the key for the inter axle differential lock slave cylinder and sliding the shift rod coupling towards the front of the car. I've unscrewed the four bolts for the tunnel cover until they are finger loose, but have not pulled the bolts out, and I have taken out the two allen bolts that secure the shift rod coupling. The shift rod coupling moved only about an inch.
Finally, when I unbolted the lateral differential lock slave cylinder, transmission fluid started to leak out. Simple seal replace?
Unfortunately when this happened, I had just started to restore my 1981 SC when the 964 acted up. The last time I had the engine out of the 964 about three years ago (to replace the clutch), I removed the engine without the transmission doing a partial drop method (Never again!), so this is my first time removing the engine with the transmission.
thanks in advance.
tom
I'm having trouble doing two things: removing the key for the inter axle differential lock slave cylinder and sliding the shift rod coupling towards the front of the car. I've unscrewed the four bolts for the tunnel cover until they are finger loose, but have not pulled the bolts out, and I have taken out the two allen bolts that secure the shift rod coupling. The shift rod coupling moved only about an inch.
Finally, when I unbolted the lateral differential lock slave cylinder, transmission fluid started to leak out. Simple seal replace?
Unfortunately when this happened, I had just started to restore my 1981 SC when the 964 acted up. The last time I had the engine out of the 964 about three years ago (to replace the clutch), I removed the engine without the transmission doing a partial drop method (Never again!), so this is my first time removing the engine with the transmission.
thanks in advance.
tom
03-28-2010, 09:07 PM
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Pictures
1) Picked up a ATV jack on sale at Harbor Freight.
2) I finally got around to getting my second set of rims powder coated in black. Only ran $60/wheel at Miller Powder Coating in Atlanta (No affiliation).
3) Picture of the sleve
4) my hand-made tunnel support (used a piece of framing metal from Home Depot)
5) Lateral Slave that leaks when I unbolt it from the transmission
2) I finally got around to getting my second set of rims powder coated in black. Only ran $60/wheel at Miller Powder Coating in Atlanta (No affiliation).
3) Picture of the sleve
4) my hand-made tunnel support (used a piece of framing metal from Home Depot)
5) Lateral Slave that leaks when I unbolt it from the transmission
03-28-2010, 09:12 PM
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Other projects
1) Rebuilding the CV's for the SC
2) Rebuilding the brake calipers for the SC. New Bilstein HD's too.
3) Engine of the 964 ready to come out. I'm going to powder coat the fan while its out.
4) The SC sidelined for the moment... Need my C4!
2) Rebuilding the brake calipers for the SC. New Bilstein HD's too.
3) Engine of the 964 ready to come out. I'm going to powder coat the fan while its out.
4) The SC sidelined for the moment... Need my C4!
03-28-2010, 10:06 PM
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I ended up doing the partial drop, took a bit of playing with to get back in but went pretty smooth.
There is a good thread on the DIY 964 site, I am sure you did, but did you check there?
Wheels look great by the way!
There is a good thread on the DIY 964 site, I am sure you did, but did you check there?
Wheels look great by the way!
03-29-2010, 10:03 PM
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Thanks Ian. Yes, Garrett's write-up is super. I just used a little more leverage and got the key to come out as well as move the got the coupling to slide forward using a long socket extension.
Can't get the slave cylinder to budge... despite trying to pry it loose with a 18" screw driver. Any Suggestions anyone?
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...p-dsc05347.jpg
From Garrett's notes: undo the small single allen-head screw on the longitudinal slave cylinder - remove the 2-pronged fork by grabbing it and sliding it out. Once it’s removed the slave can be withdrawn - at this point just loosen it. Also unclip the fluid lines - there are 2 or 3 of them so the lines are free. The cylinder can’t be removed, or moved out of the way until the transmission mount is loosened to permit enough space to slide it down and out of the way - so don’t try yet!
Can't get the slave cylinder to budge... despite trying to pry it loose with a 18" screw driver. Any Suggestions anyone?
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...p-dsc05347.jpg
From Garrett's notes: undo the small single allen-head screw on the longitudinal slave cylinder - remove the 2-pronged fork by grabbing it and sliding it out. Once it’s removed the slave can be withdrawn - at this point just loosen it. Also unclip the fluid lines - there are 2 or 3 of them so the lines are free. The cylinder can’t be removed, or moved out of the way until the transmission mount is loosened to permit enough space to slide it down and out of the way - so don’t try yet!
03-29-2010, 10:55 PM
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There should be only two 10mm nuts holding the transmission slave cylinder on to the bell housing. The other one is hard to reach on the tunnel side of the transmission. I hope I am thinking of the right thing. Didn't mess with the locks.
03-30-2010, 01:46 PM
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Did you sneak into my garage and borrow my Simpson Strong Tie metal strap for the support. It's identical to the one I made.
Once you completely remove the two allen head bolts from the connecting sleeve, it should slide forward. First time around, I merely loosened the bolts, thinking it was a compression design. After some frustration, I realized that there are slots in the sides of the shafts that the bolts fit into, preventing the sleeve from moving if the bolts are not completely removed. The sleeve does tend to bond to the shafts and you may need to apply a little pressure to the end of the sleeve by prying against it with a sturdy screwdriver.
Slave cylinder has a rubber bellows with a metal compression band that fits into the transmission to prevent trans lube from coming out on removal of slave. It's about $11US and same as for clutch slave bellows, I think. Problem is, you will have to drain lube to install. It was missing on mine too. Catalogue calls for a paper gasket too, but it is pretty thin material and could be replaced with gasket maker IMO.
Once you completely remove the two allen head bolts from the connecting sleeve, it should slide forward. First time around, I merely loosened the bolts, thinking it was a compression design. After some frustration, I realized that there are slots in the sides of the shafts that the bolts fit into, preventing the sleeve from moving if the bolts are not completely removed. The sleeve does tend to bond to the shafts and you may need to apply a little pressure to the end of the sleeve by prying against it with a sturdy screwdriver.
Slave cylinder has a rubber bellows with a metal compression band that fits into the transmission to prevent trans lube from coming out on removal of slave. It's about $11US and same as for clutch slave bellows, I think. Problem is, you will have to drain lube to install. It was missing on mine too. Catalogue calls for a paper gasket too, but it is pretty thin material and could be replaced with gasket maker IMO.
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03-30-2010, 01:53 PM
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After re-reading your post, let me clarify:
The two bolts that go through the ends of the sleeve are on the drive shaft, not the shift coupling. The drive shafts are notched to receive the bolts.
The shift coupling is below, and has one hex head bolt througn an oversize hole on the bottom, through the shift rod, and into the threads on the top side. The edge of the hole in the coupling for the rod can get damaged, making for a tight fit. On one of my engine-outs, I had to hold the shift rod SECURELY and drive the coupling off of it with some easy tapping.
The two bolts that go through the ends of the sleeve are on the drive shaft, not the shift coupling. The drive shafts are notched to receive the bolts.
The shift coupling is below, and has one hex head bolt througn an oversize hole on the bottom, through the shift rod, and into the threads on the top side. The edge of the hole in the coupling for the rod can get damaged, making for a tight fit. On one of my engine-outs, I had to hold the shift rod SECURELY and drive the coupling off of it with some easy tapping.
