groovzilla

when i do mine i will use a wider piece of aluminium because i have some cracks needing more support

klr10

When I had my engine rebuilt I got my tech to fit one of these.

Looks like new (no affiliation).

h_walker

When I had my clutch changed, I had one of these put in. I will try to snap a picture next time the garage door is open so you can see it in the car.

HW
1990 C2 Coupe
2000 Boxster
2005 Cayenne S

Racker79

Hi H Walker,

does this insulation has a stonger sides? Where can you get them from ?

Stefan

Grazie

Anyone know the part number or source for the plugs/fittings that hold up the engine insulation and/or a suitable alternative?
I'm planning to implement this fix but most of mynplugs are missing.
Thanks in advance.

Atgani

999 049 011 40

10 required

http://www.koperformance.com/part-nu...ENUINE-PORSCHE

RW964

These ideas are the reason to follow the forums a endless supply of info and alot of good humor to go with it ...

Silvertarga

when removing my old insulation I cured the "little bits of foam all over the engine problem" in a matter of seconds...with a leaf blower........

MrNvgtr

I just took my hack at the OP's solution to the sagging insulation. I have some sort of weird issue in that most handy work I perform never comes out right. In today's saga, the problem stemmed from the aluminum strip being too thick (the only size HD had), as well as the petrified insulation being too thick and when I tried to compress it to allow for the plastic screw-on pieces to catch on the threaded bolts, but it would just crumble away. Oh, also, I could not get the holes aligned correctly so the threaded bolts would all go through, so I ended up sawing through to the original bolt holes I had previously drilled (actually a pretty good alternate solution in itself) on one side of the aluminum strip, so that you could slide it in place (theoretically) rather than never get the holes to align. I ended up getting it fitted, but it's not optimal. Not all the insulation could fit under the strip, so it's sort of bunched up behind it, rather than compressed under it, in some areas. It bothers me enough that when the insulation decides to defeat my solution and crumble or fall back out, I'll probably use that time to do an engine drop to fix it right.

911URGE

I noticed that the studs that hold the insulation form a slight arc so dont think you can drill a series of holes properly spaced (See OP's second photo - Outer studs further back than middle two studs). I found a 36" x 2" x 1/8" piece of aluminum at HD. After getting the holes properly aligned and drilled I slightly bent the aluminum to fit the shape of the bay. Once I found the fit to be good I primed/painted the aluminum flat black and installed. I didnt have much issues getting screw on pieces to fit. Been working good for the last few months.

Gregg-K

Think twice: I did this on my '77 911S when its engine was removed for some work. Even with a completely open engine compartment, it wasn't long before I was cursing having got into the mess. Took a ridiculous amount of time to get all the bits of the insulation removed, and enough of the old adhesive off that I had a decent base for the new adhesive.

YMMV, but I swore never to do another one ...

... Gregg

Marc Shaw

I used a strip of cardboard as a template - pressed it onto the studs to punch holes in the cardboard then used the cardboard template to tell me where to drill the holes in the metal when I did this a few years ago. I have since removed the sound insulation and don't miss it.

Marc

H2O LOL

Pics?

berni29

Hi

You can get ceramic paints that reflect heat and are effective at noise reduction also. I just pulled mine out on my 993 and are pleased to see the back of it.

Berni

ALEX P

Mine was manky and crumbling away so when I dropped the engine I took the opportunity to replace it with some 'Aluminium Glass Cloth' which weighs and costs very little. Also brightens up the engine bay a bit.

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p7...duct_info.html