user 783003

I just ordered a spare 3-light center console cluster and will install white LED's in it to replace the old incandescents.

When I got my car, all the lights were out so I replaced the lights with LED's and have been very happy with it. I imagine the LED's will last as long as (or longer than) the car.

Is there any interest in this for anyone else? I'm thinking that I can ship out the spare with the white LED's in return for your old one with burnt out or still good incandescents and a few dollars to cover shipping, LED's and time.

elbeee964

Went the LED route with mine, too. It's a fantastic rework. Highly recommended.

Rocket Rob

Matt,

Can you tell us where you got your LEDs and what part number is needed? My coupe has 2 of the 3 bulbs out.

user 783003

I got mine from the Fry's nearby, but I also ordered these as spare and for the spoiler light and any others that may come up.

meek

Matt, I assume you have to solder the LEDs in place? I have two bulbs out and was thinking of doing the LED upgrade.

user 783003

Yes, you have to de-solder the old bulbs out, get all of the old solder off of the board and then solder the new LED's in, obviously keeping the polarity of the LED's correct.

There are 3 lights in the lock/hazard/master alarm set, but don't forget the spoiler switch has one to replace as well.

elbeee964

[anonymous voice from the back of the room]

Gregg-K

Keep in mind the legends in the face of the console are red, so there is no need to use white LEDs. I used cheap & cheerful 3mm Red LEDs when I did mine last year ... nothing special, just some I had lying around.

While polarity is important, remember also that you need to install a resistor of about 680 ohms in series with each LED ... otherwise they will burn out.

.> Gregg

meek

Thanks chaps, I will give it a try and come back when I have cocked it up.

user 783003

There is a good DIY on John's UK web site. The only thing it's missing is which way the LED's should be installed and a how-to soldering guide. I may give it a shot on the next one I receive.

I used red LED's in my car. I'll swap them to white as I would like it a bit brighter.

Regarding the resistor, the LED's I bought and linked to above have the resistor built in so they're ready to install in a 12V DC application.

stevepaa

I could not find LEDs that would work when I did mine. Thanks for posting the link.

Gus

"While polarity is important, remember also that you need to install a resistor of about 680 ohms in series with each LED ... otherwise they will burn out."

Are you saying that for every LED installed I need to have a 680 ohms resistor wired into the hot side- Is this shown in Alfreds pic??

Gus

Alfred - just read your note - So LED's with the resistor installed are available - or if you get 12V Leds you don't need the resistors -
I have been to Radio Shack and gotten some 12 volt LEDs - but they don't say anything about having a resistor - So I would need to install the resistor on the hot side ?

user 783003

I'm no E.E., but a 12V LED is wired for 12V DC already, so they should be fine w/o the resistor. The ones I picked up from Fry's and the ones I linked to above are described as having the resistor built in such that they will work for 12V.

I tried Radio Shack first and didn't find anything I could use there.

Gregg-K

Right: if you buy common-garden LEDs, they will each need a resistor in series with one of the leads ... doesn't matter which one. This is because LEDs are current-driven devices, and when driven from a voltage source (like your battery), require a resistor to limit the current. Without a resistor, they will (momentarily) attempt to draw infinite current ... and blow.

The "12 volt LEDs" should have a series resistor built in, but those are not very common. Wiring an external resistor in series with an ordinary LED is an easy way of making it into a "12 volt" LED.

.. Gregg