new coils, oh my what power
07-07-2009, 01:02 PM
#47
Is there any in between ground?
That is, is it possible that the car will start on one coil, but that coil is not operating at 100%?
Or, is it an all or nothing situation?
Thanks,
Dave
That is, is it possible that the car will start on one coil, but that coil is not operating at 100%?
Or, is it an all or nothing situation?
Thanks,
Dave
07-08-2009, 12:48 AM
#49
"That is, is it possible that the car will start on one coil, but that coil is not operating at 100%?"
That's possible, but very unlikely. You can generally check that the spark
from the coil wire to ground is about 10-15mm and blue in color.
If the coil is breaking down internally, the spark will be less than 5-8mm
and be yellowish in color or intermittent. The coil can also breakdown
from the center post to either of the two lugs.
These are rough guide lines and one really needs an ignition scope to
properly evaluate the coil.
That's possible, but very unlikely. You can generally check that the spark
from the coil wire to ground is about 10-15mm and blue in color.
If the coil is breaking down internally, the spark will be less than 5-8mm
and be yellowish in color or intermittent. The coil can also breakdown
from the center post to either of the two lugs.
These are rough guide lines and one really needs an ignition scope to
properly evaluate the coil.
07-08-2009, 08:05 AM
#50
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I almost waited too late. I was in rural Mississippi when the car died. I was lucky to limp home on one coil which did not appear to be doing well.
07-08-2009, 11:41 AM
#51
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
coils.
if the silvers are not as good as the old black ones I will take my chances as the performance I have gained with the replacement is like night and day. I will just keep the old ones in the car just in case. seeing we have twin ignitions ,i highly doubt that both would go out at the same time.
100 buck is not not going to kill most, and if they do nothing then save them for spare in the future. In my situation it was worth the risk and i could not be happier.
to put the car on the scope will cost you the same as buying new coils outright so what do you have to lose.
like i said i always thought my car was slow to accelerate in the lower rpm's but now the motor rpms more closley follows the input when i step on the gas and i can tell you that it is a big differece.
Maybe you car is fine and your coils are good, i had a ignition connection problem down stream of the coil and i belive that damage that coil, not a total failure to where it would not run on that coil by itself but enought to where the coil is not 100 percent.
i thought my car hauled *** before, now i know it really hauls ***.
i am just passing this info along. bottom line my car never ran this STRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
100 buck is not not going to kill most, and if they do nothing then save them for spare in the future. In my situation it was worth the risk and i could not be happier.
to put the car on the scope will cost you the same as buying new coils outright so what do you have to lose.
like i said i always thought my car was slow to accelerate in the lower rpm's but now the motor rpms more closley follows the input when i step on the gas and i can tell you that it is a big differece.
Maybe you car is fine and your coils are good, i had a ignition connection problem down stream of the coil and i belive that damage that coil, not a total failure to where it would not run on that coil by itself but enought to where the coil is not 100 percent.
i thought my car hauled *** before, now i know it really hauls ***.
i am just passing this info along. bottom line my car never ran this STRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
07-09-2009, 12:33 PM
#52
12-07-2010, 03:11 PM
#53
Bad Coils ??
After reading all of these post I have a 90 964 C2 and it runs rough at idle and runs good down the street I also have the Xmas Tree effect going on so time to spend 100 American and still have spares to boot. Time for caps and rotors as well new coils and caps etc should do the trick. 56,000 miles time for new parts.
A good forum to be sure
90 964 C2
70 911 E
A good forum to be sure
90 964 C2
70 911 E
12-07-2010, 11:28 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
RW964 - Keep us posted once completed. My 89 C4 has never had coils replaced in 160k miles and I feel it runs just fine but no xmas tree effect either.
01-10-2011, 02:37 PM
#55
new coils and C wires
A follow up to reg maint. My car was running rough at idle so pulled the wires off the coils one at a time and found what coil was bad. Checked the wire and green funk all over the end of the wire picts are on a post from before.
I got new coils and new coil wires the sparkers and rotors and caps were changed a bit ago almost new. Took a short time and coils and wires were changed what a easy task
Right from the start good crisp response. Take off from a stop light you almost do not have to touch the gas. Also called in and had a extra DME Relay for my glove box so now a spare. I made the jumpers as well just for grins. So a backup for a backup. I would think if you do not have a spare relay takes 2 min for a jumper to be made 1 dollar instead of a tow charge.
Thanks for the info on this great forum good to just see what folks have to say ...................
DistID Quantity SKU - Name Price Total
2 94460211500 - Porsche Ignition Coil - Bosch $59.00 $118.00
2 96460206008 - Porsche 911 C2 C4 Ignition Coil Wire $39.00
$78.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sub Total: $196.00
Shipping: $9.75
Tax: $0.00
Grand Total: $205.75
Add $25.00 American for DME Relay
Vertex Automotive
3030 S.W. 38th Ave
Miami, FL 33146
305 -442-2727
Fax-305 -442-1072
I got new coils and new coil wires the sparkers and rotors and caps were changed a bit ago almost new. Took a short time and coils and wires were changed what a easy task
Right from the start good crisp response. Take off from a stop light you almost do not have to touch the gas. Also called in and had a extra DME Relay for my glove box so now a spare. I made the jumpers as well just for grins. So a backup for a backup. I would think if you do not have a spare relay takes 2 min for a jumper to be made 1 dollar instead of a tow charge.
Thanks for the info on this great forum good to just see what folks have to say ...................
DistID Quantity SKU - Name Price Total
2 94460211500 - Porsche Ignition Coil - Bosch $59.00 $118.00
2 96460206008 - Porsche 911 C2 C4 Ignition Coil Wire $39.00
$78.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sub Total: $196.00
Shipping: $9.75
Tax: $0.00
Grand Total: $205.75
Add $25.00 American for DME Relay
Vertex Automotive
3030 S.W. 38th Ave
Miami, FL 33146
305 -442-2727
Fax-305 -442-1072
01-10-2011, 03:08 PM
#56
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Helotes, TX
Posts: 1,307
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Me too. Had previously done the wires and caps, which fixed most of my Christmas tree issus. The coils fixed the remainig ones and added the power dutch refers to.
12-11-2013, 08:00 PM
#57
Rennlist Member
I went the same route, as well as new plugs and wires, rotors, caps. Thats when I found the real culprit was the ignition module. You find it the same way you isolate a bad coil or coil wire. Bosch part# 0 227 100 124; Porsche part # 928 602 706 01. Same part is used on Volvos and Some Rennline sponsors carry the part at half the OPD price.
12-12-2013, 12:00 AM
#58
Race Car
my car 1990 has 21000 miles on it. back some time ago i got to know the car and found that it would not run on 1 coils for long and would die. found which ignition circuit it was and began to trouble shoot. turns out that a ignition wire was toast. also that lug where that ignition wire went on the distributor cap was all corroded. replaced the caps and rotor including that 1 wire and was able to get the car to run on either coils no problem.
i have worked on many cars since i was young and dealt with distributor caps a plenty mostly bosch caps. to make a long story short bosch is clear coating the ignition lugs gor the wire connection in manufacturing which i have never seen till this day and i believe this was the cause of that ignition wire failure and in turn caused the corrisponding coil to start failing inside. i do not want to go round and round on this but those who have bought new caps a simple continuity check of the exterier pin will validate what i am saying. detailed cleaning with scotchbrite and alcohol fixed it. if you do not clean it off you are hoping that when you install the ignition caple on the cap the wire will hopefully scrap off that area and make a connection. if you look inside the ignition wire that goes onto the cap it not a solid 360 degree contact area, but a wire, so a solid connection is important. take this info for whats its worth, i know better. no one would try to make a connection on a coated surface if it could be avoided.
my home is located down a hill so everytime i take the car for a drive it seem to always struggle a bit when going up, mind you not real bad but it was there. the car i thought always drove well. but after the coil change it was like night and day and it went up the hill without the slightest hesitation and just wanted to go go go.
i helped another rennlister that could not get his car to run on either coil and after he cleaned up the pins real well, that coating is hard to come off, his car would run on either coil.
i have worked on many cars since i was young and dealt with distributor caps a plenty mostly bosch caps. to make a long story short bosch is clear coating the ignition lugs gor the wire connection in manufacturing which i have never seen till this day and i believe this was the cause of that ignition wire failure and in turn caused the corrisponding coil to start failing inside. i do not want to go round and round on this but those who have bought new caps a simple continuity check of the exterier pin will validate what i am saying. detailed cleaning with scotchbrite and alcohol fixed it. if you do not clean it off you are hoping that when you install the ignition caple on the cap the wire will hopefully scrap off that area and make a connection. if you look inside the ignition wire that goes onto the cap it not a solid 360 degree contact area, but a wire, so a solid connection is important. take this info for whats its worth, i know better. no one would try to make a connection on a coated surface if it could be avoided.
my home is located down a hill so everytime i take the car for a drive it seem to always struggle a bit when going up, mind you not real bad but it was there. the car i thought always drove well. but after the coil change it was like night and day and it went up the hill without the slightest hesitation and just wanted to go go go.
i helped another rennlister that could not get his car to run on either coil and after he cleaned up the pins real well, that coating is hard to come off, his car would run on either coil.
