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I'm not a mechanic, but I don't see how changing the distributor would stop a backfire? Sounds more like a timing issue to me? Plenty of people on here know a lot more than I do so I'm sure you'll get more replies!
A new tach is a couple of hundred dollars max and easy to swap out if that's all they're gonna do, although you do need to remove the steering wheel.
A new tach is a couple of hundred dollars max and easy to swap out if that's all they're gonna do, although you do need to remove the steering wheel.
Actually you don't. Once you take the gauge out of the socket, you can twist and align it so that it can come all the way out. Its shape is not completely cylindrical on the inside.
Further on the tach issue, I would test the gauge with a 9V battery and see if the needle moves. There is a wiring schematic on the back of the tach and you can see which leads you need to connect to the battery. If the needle moves, then it's not a faulty gauge, you'll need to look for the problem elsewhere. If the problem is with the tach, you can get a used 964 or a 993 tach for a fraction of what you've been quoted by the dealer.
Regarding backfiring, did the dealer scan the car with the Bosch Hammer and pinpoint the issue to the distributor? The distributor is a purely mechanical item with a number of parts inside that are relatively cheap to replace - belt, caps, rotors, etc.
But it could be backfiring due to a distributor belt break? That could be really bad. I wouldn't run the engine until you can determine if that is the case. Search here for "distributor belt" to do some reading on the subject. If it is broken, you could damage the engine pretty seriously... so please be careful.
If you are into working on it yourself, pull off the distributor caps, and check that the lower (left) distributor rotor does not spin freely. If so, the belt is broken and needs a fix before you do anything.
BTW, I have a used standard tach that works if you want to talk.
Actually you don't. Once you take the gauge out of the socket, you can twist and align it so that it can come all the way out. Its shape is not completely cylindrical on the inside.
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That depends on the tach. If it is a stock one it is not too deep, but the OBC version is pretty deep, and was much easier to move without the steering wheel in place.
Hey, all thanks for the swift/helpful replies.
tbennet, I'll send you a PM reg your used tach.
Ilko - i'm not sure what they did to check tbh, I'm quite new at this and i've found the caps/rotos/sparks etc on eBay but I also found a Bosch ignition distributor for around US$800. I think that's what the dealer is asking me to replace.
tbennet - no I'm not working on it myself, but I am quite sure the belt is fine tho.
Backfires are typically caused by a vacume leaks on the intake side - engine mechanics 101. Check vacume lines for leaks or those rubber intake manifold couplings etc.
When a cylinder does not fire and the charge get pushed out the exhaust valve it can blow up in the exhaust system . I would be looking for a non firing cylinder . Bad caps / bad rotors / bad wires / bad spark plugs / bad coil/s .
I would send the tach in for repairs . No need to buy a new one if the old one can be repaired .
When you say the distributor belt is fine, if that is the case, and if the cap and rotor on the offending distributor are both good then there must be a problem with an HT coil or wiring. Are you sure the belt is definitely OK? You can tell by removing both the distributor caps and making sure both the rotors turn together when the engine is turned over on the starter.
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