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RS Short Shift Install

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Old 03-01-2009, 08:20 PM
  #16  
ltc
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Nice looking ICC kart in one of the pics....
Old 03-02-2009, 12:02 PM
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Low 964
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Low 964. What do you mean by GAITOR ?


Leather bit...does the old one fit
Old 03-02-2009, 02:07 PM
  #18  
ThomasC2
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Originally Posted by Low 964
Low 964. What do you mean by GAITOR ?


Leather bit...does the old one fit
the "leather bit" will fit. It will be just a little more stretched than stock. Looks just fine.
Old 03-02-2009, 05:59 PM
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crg53
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Yes, the stock Gaitor fits just fine, second set of pictures shows it installed.
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:26 PM
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964sepp
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Previously owned Cars: 1956 DKW coupe 3=6, 1958 NSU Prinz II, 1960 Fiat 500, 1965 Mini Cooper S 1275 Don`t tell me you are Canadian by birth...
Nice job, crg53 and greetings from Munich
Old 03-02-2009, 07:47 PM
  #21  
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964 sepp,
Thanks, no I was born in Denmark, moved to Canada when I was 24.
Old 10-29-2010, 06:40 PM
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boydyrs
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Hi I am just about to do this job in my '94 964 LHD Euro Speedster except I am also installing the RS fork to match gear lever. Do I still need to cut the recess for the new oval guide or does my car already have this?
I havent seen any other instal guides anywhere but any links would be appreciated
regards
Boydyrs
Old 10-29-2010, 07:04 PM
  #23  
crg53
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I am pretty sure MY 92 and on has the oval holes from the factory, so you are half way there already, all you have to do is take the guides out and turn them around, hole on top. The kit I installed also included the RS fork.
Good luck.

PS. looking at those pictures, I am sure glad I replaced that steering wheel.

Old 11-01-2010, 12:33 PM
  #24  
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HI, i completed this job at the weekend and it has tightend the shifter movement considerably but hasnt really shortened throw. It is much taller that std shifter but then I got to thinking why do we need to highten the guide tube to the new position? On compairing the std and rs shifter the pivot points are different, hence reason for new fork, so if we lift the guide tube this will effect the throw/pivot point and we lose the advantage......does this make sense?
I am tempted to return the guide tube to where it was before?
Boydyrs
Old 11-01-2010, 01:13 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Boydrsr
HI, i completed this job at the weekend and it has tightend the shifter movement considerably but hasnt really shortened throw. It is much taller that std shifter but then I got to thinking why do we need to highten the guide tube to the new position? On compairing the std and rs shifter the pivot points are different, hence reason for new fork, so if we lift the guide tube this will effect the throw/pivot point and we lose the advantage......does this make sense?
I am tempted to return the guide tube to where it was before?
Boydyrs
The reason you lift the guide tube is to avoid interference with the tunnel cover as the part of the shift lever from pivot point down, is longer than stock.
I do like the fact that the shift **** is now closer to the steering wheel.

Old 11-01-2010, 01:26 PM
  #26  
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OK, why is this not a problem in the RS as my old RS and my friends LHD RS shift is lower in car but has a shorter throw....are there other RS differences?
I measured both std and rs lever side by side before instal and only the pivot point was different in RS lever......pin for fork was further up than std and fork was was taller with holes to match the RS pin this moving the pivot point.
I am going to try the guide tube is the std position to see difference and will update at weekend
Does this make sense?
Boydyrs

Last edited by Boydrsr; 11-01-2010 at 01:52 PM.
Old 11-01-2010, 02:14 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Boydrsr
OK, why is this not a problem in the RS as my old RS and my friends LHD RS shift is lower in car but has a shorter throw....are there other RS differences?
I measured both std and rs lever side by side before instal and only the pivot point was different in RS lever......pin for fork was further up than std and fork was was taller with holes to match the RS pin this moving the pivot point.
I am going to try the guide tube is the std position to see difference and will update at weekend
Does this make sense?
Boydyrs
Unless you have a different RS short shift kit than mine (mine is Factory RS), it will not fit with the guide tube in the bottom position without modifications to the tunnel cover. Give it a try, as I said maybe your Shiftkit is different, and please report back.

Old 11-01-2010, 06:00 PM
  #28  
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thanks for sharing! on my todo list.
Old 04-30-2014, 07:50 AM
  #29  
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Thank's Guy's for sharing !
very interesting ...
Old 12-17-2016, 11:14 AM
  #30  
ToniWonKanobi
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Originally Posted by crg53
The parts used are as mentioned before, the OEM RS short shift kit. I purchased it from Sunset Porsche (no affiliation), here are the part #'s and prices in US $.

1: 964-424-015-08 Gear Shift $ 52.53
4: 999-924-002-40 Plastic Sleeve $ 4.60
1: 964-424-017-01 Shift Fork $ 27.20
2: 964-424-028-00 Shift Tube Bushing $ 12.90
2: 99-1758-424-M230 Shift Coupler Bushing $ 7.85

There is a 993 RS Shift Rod with a newer style shift coupler, but the price is prohibitive, $ 300 plus, I dont' see any advantage to this item just a different U-joint.
Will post more pictures when done.
I just picked up a MY91 C2. And I want to use all the nifty Rothsport bits. Your thread is a great resource! Thanks for it and other similar threads of yours

Question...Super old thread, I know, but I was wondering:

1. For what purpose would I need the two "Shift Coupler Bushings" (Part 99-1758-424-M230)?

This is what Pelican has for that item:



I took everything apart already, and I can understand where each of the parts you listed would go, except for those two little black bushing things—not sure where they go?


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