Boeing 717

Dude do not try to disconnect the throttle cable at the engine... do it at the pedal. It was the biggest pain in the *** i have ever had trying to get it back through that grommet at the engine, and i had my engine out with full access. And FYI changing the power steering pump with the engine in the car is a very close second to PAIN IN THE ***, ive done it twice cause i had a leaky gasket. With the engine out you can do it in like 5 minutes. Take the engine out, not only is it fun but its really interesting and you can do everything just right and clean everything up really well. Just get ready for the "WHILE IM IN HERE" syndrome.

pantera43

Again, first I want to thank all of you for posting your expertise and pictures. It should make this job a lot easier. Truthfully its a lot to digest. I'm going to have to reread it a few times and decide if the engine stays or it drops. Difficult decision. I will let all of you know....and will post progress here.

Dan

Jeff Curtis

Yeah...what Boeing said!

Hmmmm, I recall eye-balling removing the cable from the throttle body end a couple of times and I can't remember what the hang-up was but I've relegated myself to undoing it at the accelerator pedal end. Even THAT is a BIG PITA because I have a rollcage...at least the door bars are removeable or I'd be in traction for a month afterwards!!

Being that I have a NEW throttle cable and am about to drop my motor to swap in a "fresher" RSA motor - maybe I'll check it out and take pics for you all as well.

Pantera, in summary, don't be a puss...drop the engine! It's easy and you'll feel like a "MAN" when you accomplish everything.

Just joking around, really, I find it's easier to just drop the motor for valve adjustments and whatnot...because there's always those "other" tasks you've been avoiding and you'll find MUCH more to do when it's out...you can clean it up nice too!

Slantnose!

Hmmm.

Jeff Curtis

Hmmmmm what??

Marc, have you gotten any of those wrenches you own DIRTY yet?

"My Mister, that's a purty BIG toolbox you have there!"

J richard

...whats a power steering pump?....

pantera43

You guys are all too funny! I'll have her on the lift hopefully Feb 7th and then decide if I'm a man's man and drop the engine.

If I bought a RSA i suppose I wouldn't have this damn power steering leak problem...

Dan

springer3

I installed a manual rack on my C2, but they are getting very scarce and pricey. My power rack moves just as easily as the manual rack, and I suspect the main difference is the gear ratio. Had I known how smooth the power rack was in manual mode, I would have saved the $$$ and converted the PS rack to manual by cross-connecting the supply and return hoses. That should keep enough fluid inside to keep the pistons lubricated. Patrick Motor Sports sells a dandy cover plate for the drive seal, eliminating that common leak location. Replacing the seal in the PS drive is also no big deal.

pantera43

springer3, if I understand you correctly I can turn my power steering rack into manual. I looked on the Kennedy sight and saw the cam opening block off plates. Does someone sell a complete kit to do this?

Dan

springer3

The RSA shows the C2 does not need power steering. The front-end weight of the C4 is what made power necessary.

I am not aware of a kit to convert a C2, but it should be pretty simple. Here are the issues:

1) block-off plate for camshaft drive (available)
2) block-off for hole left in the engine tin (needed to keep hot air off exhaust from entering engine). I am still working on that, but the RSA part must work, and I suspect any pre-964 engine tin also works.
3) fitting to cross-connect the supply and return hoses at the rack.

I gave my hoses to Deoxford when he bought my PS rack. Both hoses connect to the PS rack with banjo bolts, and the opposite ends are flare-nut fittings. I did not check to see if they connected directly. Deoxford is thinking about a manual conversion, and perhaps can report back on the fittings needed. Perhaps we can also report on driving impressions - manual rack versus converted PS rack. I suspect there will be no detectable difference unless the gear ratio is different.

Jeff Curtis

Hmmmmm, food for thought...maybe I'll give it a whirr and report back as I will be installing a used RSA engine next week - has all the RSA "tin" and block-off on the right side cam already...guess I'll just need to crossover dem hoses!??

On a SpecE30 racecar, (1987-1992 BMW E30 converted to a Spec racer) they just plug up the steering racks with NO issue...I've done it myself but never considered doing it to the 964...Hmmmmmm again.

pantera43

Jeff, I'd be interested as well. Yours should be an interesting engine installation. I decided to do a engine drop and will be doing it on Sat.

Dan

springer3

Jeff: any chance you can post or e-mail a pic of the RSA tin? I still have the aluminum PS pump bracket blocking the gap in the tin work, but it looks terrible and still blocks access to the sparkplug and valve adjustment on that side. Thanks

pantera43

Well did my first engine drop of the 964. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who posted. It went fairly well and was pretty straight forward. Started at 8:00 and had the engine separated and on the engine stand by 1:00. We used a lift so it made the job a whole lot easier.

The biggest PITA was the throttle cable. As was suggested ended up disconnecting it from the foot peddle.

Plan is to do a full tuneup caps ,rotors,plugs etc., valve adjustment, repair the leaking power steering pump seal, replace 2 oil return tubes left bank, have the engine carrier reinforced,Wevo engine mounts, powder coat the tin and do a general cleanup of the engine. Thinking of installing a RS LWF clutch while I'm in there.

Thanks again for all your posts. This board was a hugh help and invaluable resource.

Dan

pantera43

Here are some pics...