Jeff Curtis

Personally, I see absolutely NO sense in attempting to drop a 964 motor WITHOUT the transmission...and not to start anything, but I doubt that many here have tried. The main issue would be with getting the clutch release fork released and then hooked back up during reinstall - I cannot imagine trying to do so as there are other things that make you curse and throw tools that would be much easier to do!

I think the most difficult thing with dropping the engine/trans. is undoing the accelerator cable down at the pedal up front - has anyone had any luck with detaching it another way?

I have a rollcage though, probably why it's such a P.I.T.A. for me. ...damn door bars!

I built a wooden dolly, used about a 2ft. x 2ft. piece of plywood on top...if you leave the heat exchangers on it holds the engine up PERFECTLY when you lower everything and mount some hearty wheels on it from Home Depot/Lowe's, etc. so you can roll it around.

The other tip I have is that if you're removing the engine/trans. WITHOUT a lift, do yourself a HUGE favor in the name of safety, and the cosmetic condition of your beloved 964 - REMOVE the rear bumper first...will save you quite a few "Ah-SH__" moments, I guarantee it.

J richard

Jeff,

I once thought as you did....you just don't know the power of the darkside...

A few years back my car needed a new clutch, a job I would have done but didn't have the time and the garage was full, so I dropped it by the shop, I had gotten a deal on a Cup clutch directly so I stopped by to drop it off, and there sat my engine... with the trans still in the car. I've always dropped the whole assembly and never would have condsidered or even thought of doing it any other way. So I had the mechanic take me through the process, and it does save the effort of dealing with the axles, shift linkage, clutch slave, back up switch, etc...I have done it since but it requires a lift its not the one you would use in the carport, or if it were your first time. But it can save a considerable amount of time. As you said most of the issue is the clutch fork, and it does take some real precision and patience. But it is an option.

And +1 on the bumper...I know of what you speak...

pantera43

No, I'm going to be using a lift. My hats off to the guys who can do it on the ground. I do have a question in regards to the throttle cable? Why can't I just disconnect it at the throttle? Why does it have to be at the pedal?

Dan

Jeff Curtis

I've pulled my motor MANY MANY times but have yet to figure out an easy way to get the throttle cable out at the throttle body. I checked it out once and just am used to pulling it out from the accelerator pedal end.

If someone could solve that lifelong mystery for me...I'd be grateful!

As for pulling the engine and not the transmission...I know it can be done, it's just GOT to be one helluva P.I.T.A. to get the release fork back in and sliding the motor in without knocking it off the tape or string most use to "set" it in place...would drive me nuts.

springer3

Dan: The PS pump can be removed and the seals replaced from the wheel well. I just did it, and other than a hassle finding the 36 mm crowfoot socket to move an oil line, it was a breeze. PS hoses are prone to leak at this age, so be sure to replace those. Garrett posted a thread on replacing the oil sending unit seal - another common leaker. I did that too, and the o-ring crumbled when I removed it.

As already stated, the oil return tubes are an engine-in job. I would avoid an engine drop until it is time to replace the clutch or the rear main seal.

warmfuzzies

I just undid my throttle cable, and unless they've changed, its easy, roll the arm back, prise the end of the cable from its plastic, pinch the ends of the plastic together from underneath and they then slide upwards out of the throttle arm, move to the left, and hey presto out it all comes, then pinch the grommet on the braket on the lower assy and the whole lot is free, takes about 5 mins.

Kevin.

pantera43

springer3, hmmm, you have me rethinking this engine drop. I don't appear to be losing any power steering fluid. There appears to be an engine oil leak coming from the power steering housing unit itself. I haven't looked at Pet yet to see the various seals. I must do that. I have to assume there is a seal or gasket between the power steering unit and engine? Do you think the power steering pump can be taken out through the footwell?

One of my buddies who's helping me with this did mention in passing that the heat exchange removal and oil return tubes replacement might be easier with the engine in the car than on a engine stand. J richard also mentioned it so it appears thats the way to go.

Which leaves me replacing the oil pressure sending unit/O ring and valve adjustment. I can't even see the oil pressure sending unit. I'll do a search and see what garret did. The valve adjustment on the topside of the engine looks like a bear. The very rear valves look almost impossible to get to for a proper adjustment.

Kevin, thanks for posting the picture of the throttle body. Today I'll see if I take off the throttle cable with the information provided.

Thanks guys for posting. Again its a hugh help!

Dan

garrett376

Kevin - did you notice the throttle cable is still attached about 6 inches forward to the resonance flap plate, which is a bear to remove? You still need to remove more stuff to get it completely unhooked! Additionally, there is a bracket on the transmission that needs to be removed before the engine is dropped if you unhook it at the throttle plate. It's easy to undo at the accelerate pedal, and I personally think a lot harder at the throttle body (unless you're going to completely disassemble it).

If I had to rebuild a PS pump, I'd much rather do it with the engine out, also! It's so much harder in the car! And messier!

J richard

Ok so now you're a perfect canidate for a partial drop...

First off take care of all the stuff under the engine, take the heat exchangers off and do the return tubes... believe it or not you can do them with the exhaust on, but don't try, it is so much easier, even if you break a stud. Go down to the hardware store and get a few studs, ACE hardware has the same thing as the porsche dealer for a fraction of the cost, and while your at it get a cam type stud extractor. If you work on porsches you want one anyway, and you will eventually break a stud, no big deal. Do get a good 10" long square edged 6MM (could be 8, I forget) allen socket, if you damage the two allen nuts you'll be screwed, don't use a cheap one or the rounded universal angle allens.

Jack the car up and get it on jack stands, not too high just a comfortable working height. Place a floorjack/wood or trans lift under the engine/trans and take up the weight, loosen the two motor mounts in the back and (and this is important) GENTLY lower the motor while watching for pinching or tuggin on wires and hoses. You don't want to go too far because of the shift linkage and oil lines, and the top of the fan can catch the back of the engine bay, but you can get to a whole lotta stuff this way, If you've removed the exhaust (and of course the undertray panels which we all know real men don't have...) then you can do the valves from the bottom sitting on your creeper. The side engine tins can be taken off if you still have limited room.

Anyway just go slow, and if you get in over your head the nice thing is a few tugs on the handle and two bolts and its all back in...

That said I still go back to jeffs suggestion, it is really not hard to drop the whole damn thing, porsche did such an amazing job of making these things easy to work on, and its not a bad thing to do just to look everything over and really get to know your car, so I wouldn't fear the drop...

garrett376

Dan - definitely search around for info on here. Valve adjustments are a piece of cake - all done from below the car.
Just about every oil leak can be handled with the engine still in the car except rear main seal leaks which are not that common, or through-bolt leaks which do occur frequently on high mileage engines.

pantera43

Garrett, thanks for weighing in. After reading this post and knowing the work I need to complete what's your opinion of doing an engine drop ? Is it needed ?

Dan

ilko

I also released the cable at the throttle. I found it a lot easier than at the pedal. Here's the pictures I took last year, hope they're helpful:

ilko

And here's the actual cable:

garrett376

Personally I'd replace the $2.00 oil pressure sending unit o-ring, and replace the o-ring and cam seal in the power steering pump region without dropping the engine. Do your valve adjustment after you do all this, because things can get dirty on a dirty engine when doing the seal replacements. Those things, to me, don't warrant and engine drop. If you still have persisting oil leaks, then consider dropping the engine out. There is a higher risk of numerous complications dropping an engine.

warmfuzzies

I did, its a bracket with about 4 screws, and a grommet where the cable comes through, I simply pushed the grommet of the bracket, and pulled the cable through....Its easier if the LHS inlet is off, and takes an additional 5 mins to do so, it maybe because I'm part way to pulling my lump out I took this route, it just seemed to me to be easier.....I guess I might learn something else later..

Kevin