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chain guides have 1 mm grooves in them - will replace
chain tensioner - looks okay - should i replace?
clutch is fried with chunks of metal missing - will replace
pressure plate old and will replace entire clutch
cylinder - rings are very sharp, walls of cylinders show no wear at all - will clean only
Last edited by Alex Sol; Jul 10, 2014 at 11:07 AM.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but it looks like you don't have the distributor vent kit installed. This was to prevent "premature" breakage of the belt.
when i did mine at 160 k miles, the cylinders still had the honing marks from the factory and crank was like new, so I replaced bearings and seals all around, replaced rings, guides, tensioners, chains and gears, rockers, new cam grinds and did a valve job and at 195k miles, I still have no leaks.
It does take special tools which I bought and then sold to the next rebuilder.
You should replace guides and tensioner, and chains and gears.
And when they do the valve job be sure you use the white seals or send to either Competition Engineering-Lake Isabella, CA or Ted Robinson at German Precision-Sunnyvale Ca.
the one on right looks just like the one on the left.... except that the left has a mirror like finish vs the right which has a matte like finish. which one is the before / after?
bearings, all seals, rings, guides - definitely replacing
chain and gears - was advised to replace
tensioners looked good so was advised not to replace
rockers - advised not to replace - my mechanic said i'd be dead first... i'm 39 yrs old....
valve job - do you mean replace valve guides, intake and exhaust valves, and machine work - i plan to do this
white seals... which ones do you mean? ie: where do they go?
by the way, can you tell from my pictures if i have the 'upgraded' piston and cylinders?
white teflon valve stem seals, these allow a little oil to lubricate the stem.
the factory ones were tighter and resulted in poor lubrication to stems resulting in wear and eventually wobble in valve seating.
if you grind the cams you should replace the rockers. don't bother trying to grind the rockers unless you work with camgrinder in placerville, ca.
you have the upgraded cylinders with the seal on top.
taking the engine apart is the easy part.
be sure to do a search here on Pelican Parts engine rebuilding forum to learn how to put adhesive/sealant on the case halves to reassemble. be sure you have Wayne Dempsey's book. it is a must to do a rebuild correctly
Hello Alex, wow that engine sure is dirty on the outside. sure is going to be nice when its all finished.
i think you can post as many pictures as you want. by the way thanks for the better picture in your last post, much better. no need to shrink if it allows you to upload.
i will pray for a perfect dry engine for you
thanks for posting, might want to find out about those rockers, whether you should do notthing or what.
by the way, i am a member... but i just noticed it shows i'm a user....
stevepaa - thanks for the input: definitely read through at least 3 engine rebuilds (2 on rennlist and 1 on pelican) and have dempsey's book and streather's 964 book and the smaller one with the torque values etc.
I am working with my buddy who is primarily a BMW mechanic guy and has rebuilt 8 porsche motors. this is his 9th... huge fan of racing and won a race in his bmw2002 at Mosport in a 'fun' race in the 70s...
dutch - that engine is soooo filthy on the outside. inside not so bad. it will all be taken out to get cleaned, cleaned and cleaned again and carefully put back together... looking forward to it... Christmas present???
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