TR6

Ok, now that I've tasted success with today's front brake rotor and pad replacement, I want to replace an outer rear CV boot that is torn on my C2. How hard is this to tackle? Any body know of a DIY link you can point me to? Tips from someone that's done it? I bought all 4 boots (inner and outer) since I'm sure they are all the same age, but the outer one that's torn is the highest priority.

Chris M.

Here you go
You might as well replace both while you're it. It's definitely not a job you want to do real often. Rent the gear puller as JasonAndreas suggested. I didn't and it would've made the job MUCH easier.

c

Heirsh

I pulled mine loose on the tranny side and I didnt have too much trouble. Granted, I didn't do as thorough of a job cleaning it out as fully removing them would have.

williamreinecke

The hardest part is holding onto everything with greasy fingers.

TR6

Thanks guys! I'm debating whether to tackle this myself or hire it out.

TR6

Just to clarify, do you have to remove the inner CV joint and boot to remove the outer boot? That's what it looks like in the DIY write up. I'm guessing that's to avoid removing the axle nut which is more difficult?

Fred's 964

Greg, I just did mine and did not remove the axle nut. The inner boots and CV jionts have to be removed to replace the outer boot. When you get the outer boot off, look at the CV joint and grease to see if any contaminants have gotten in. If not, you can remove as much of the old grease as possible with a rag. The axle will slide in and out to assist you in this. Repack with new grease and slide the new boot on. I had my wheels and calipers off at the time, so it was easy to get to the outer Cv joint area. The instructions on the DIY section are very helpful. I agree with renting the puller to remove the inner race.
If I had found contamination in the outer CV joint, I would have tackled the outer nut and removed the entire axle. Have fun, it's not a very difficult fix and will give you peace of mind.
Fred

garrett376

I helped my buddy re-do all of his boots using my write-up's method (not removing the axle nut) and it worked fine - but we needed an air impact hammer to remove his CV joint as it had fused to the splines. The impact hammer made it a breeze. That puller Jason shows would have been handy!!!! But we made do just fine!

TR6

What size are the hex head fasteners that attache the inner CV joint to the trans? I jacked up the car and looked at mine and it looks like someone has buggered some of them up. I hope they come off okay but I don't even want to try until I make sure I've got the correct tool to remove them. I don't want to make it worse.

Chris M.

I think they're 8s but the torque isn't too high on them. It helps to have another person for this part because you'll only be able to access one or two bolts at a time. Eventually you'll have to rotate the axle to get at the others but you also need the emergency brake on to keep it from spinning. The extra person can do the rotating and can set and release the e-brake for you.
BTW I know a person who had this done at a shop and they paid over $500 for one axle!! In-sane!

c

JasonAndreas

You'll need an 8mm hex driver and the replacement bolts are part #900-067-123-01, I paid $0.95USD/each. In addition to the two articles in the DIY forum (mentioned above) there is also a great post over at Pelican, 993 Howto: 60K CV joint servicing..

TR6

Jason, thank you for the excellent information! I think I'll order new bolts in advance before I remove the old ones. Do you happen to remember how many there are on each side?

Chris M.

There are 6 bolts on each side.

c

garrett376

For those of you C4 non-TurboLook owners who might use this thread as a reference, the CV bolts are smaller than that found on a C2...

TR6

A couple of more questions... I don't know how long the outer CV boot has been split and therefore, how long its been exposed to contaminents or how much may have gotten in (I've had the car since July). I usually drive the car a couple of times a week, only ever once or twice in wet weather. Should I stop driving it at all until I can replace this boot? How serious is this? There are no unusual noises from the joint when I rotate it and it turns smoothly by hand. If I use the method of removal in the DIY thread where I don't remove the outer axle nut, is it feasible to refresh the grease adequately in the CV outer joint? I'm a little worried about the condition of the old grease that is in there if this boot has been split for a while. It may have taken in some dirt and moisture.