You can remove only the inner bolts, then the inner cover plate, circlip and then remove the inner CV. Clean the axle thoroughly with solvent, cut off the outer boot, wipe away any excess grease on the CV, then start wiping away as much grease as possible, use brake cleaner as a solvent and continue to clean away the old grease. when you feel that you have adequately cleaned as much as possible, start to put it back together.
First, pack in as much fresh grease as possible, spinning the ***** and CV case so as to get the grease well imbedded. then coat the outer surfaces. Next slip on the new boot from the inner side, put a little grease on the SMALL hole of the boot to aide in sliding it up the shaft.
When you get it in position at the joint, apply the remaining "correct" amount of grease, then slip (I use a small pair of locking forcepts on one side and a small needle nose on the other to work the boot onto the flange. Once on, clamp the 2 sides.
Now it is just a matter of cleaning up the inner CV joint (wipe away the old grease, however, it isn't as critical to thoroughly clean off all of the grease since it wasn't contaminated from a ripped boot). Put the CV joint with the large side of the boot already attached on the shaft, reinstall the circlip and dust cover, clamp the small side of the boot to the shaft and reinstall the axle to the tranny casing with the Hex cap screws and torque.
You are done!
Since that was so easy, go do the other side since you are DIRTY and already bought the boots!

 

I'm getting sloppy.

 

FWIW: I needed an extractor for the drive shaft, autozone had one cheap. It was messy but a do-able DIY.

 

I hired the replacement of the four boots cause I know this is the worst job, you need the right tools and you'll need a helper, then you'll have grease everywhere.
They charged me 5 hours in total and $60 in parts. (time is standard of 2.5 hours each axle inner and outer boot) This is one of those jobs that I don't mind paying... cause if you've done it once you swear never to do it again.

 

??? I split the outer left side and replaced it myself, it was easy, Yes somewhat SLOPPY but I've come out looking worse after other repairs. About 4 months later, I then found the right outer split during a DE inspection and replaced it with very little mess, lots of paper towels and a handy undercarrage trash bag handy! BTW - both inners were also replaced with each repair.So now I'm good for another 5/50,000!

 

Of course we will all feel differently about different repairs. Whats easy for one is hard for another and vice versa.

One way I considered doing this was buying remanufactured whole units and swapping them in. No mess.

But I have to agree with LouZ, it wasnt that bad. Now the slave cylinder I replaced by myself without a lift.... that was one of those things I'd rather have paid someone to do. Others have had no trouble with it.

 

Sloppy... nonsense! I'm just keeping you on your toes!!!!

 

Well, I'm ready to tackle this job. I just bought a complete set of hex head bolts for the inner CV attachments to replace the old bolts. I went ahead and bought a complete set of bolts just to be sure since a couple of the hex heads looked like they were a bit messed up (hopefully they'll come off okay). I got stung by the dealer to the tune of $2.47 each for the bolts. I'm sure I could have ordered them elsewhere cheaper but I wanted to make sure I had them without delay for this weekend. I'll put on my worst clothes that I don't mind throwing away!

ps. Does anyone know the torque specs for these inner CV bolts?

 

Greg, the manual says M8 = 31 ft-lbs and M10 = 59 ft-lbs.

You're getting way ahead of me, I really need to get off my ****. At least I changed my oil/filter yesterday. It's a start. Lots more to do in the coming weeks.

Steve

 

In my case 2 boots were torn so they had to be completely disasembled and washed to clean any dust/sand so both axels had to be dismounted.
Probably my problem is that I can't have my hands dirty (thanks Mom!), maybe thats why I found it so annoying...

 

This job seems to be easier and cleaner if you completely dismantle the joint and separate the ***** from the race and the cage and then clean with odorless mineral spirits. Trying to do this with just paper towels and the joint still intact is real messy.

 

I guess this means I will need to remove the outer axle nut to remove the entire axle. Getting that nut loose sounds like its presented some challenge to some that have posted previously. What size is that nut?

 

If you look in the DIY section, you'll see a write-up from Garrett and an addendum from Jason on this procedure. You don't have to pull the axle unless you want to disassemble the outer. There's a ton of stuff on Pelican about this under the topic of CV and wheel bearings, mostly under the 911 forum. You can gleen info from the 911, 964, and 993 NA and Turbo forums on Pelican and here on this topic. From what I can tell, differences in the procedure are slight.
Some say you can't do anything with the outer except clean it up, repack, and replace the boot.
Since I haven't done it yet, I can only offer what I have read.
Grady Clay on Pelican wrote up a way to disassemble the outer for cleaning. I'm pretty sure he had to pull the axle to do that, but I'm not 100% sure. If I pulled the axle, I think I would go the extra step and change the bearings as well.

There's also a good bit of contention on how to loosen the axle nut. One guy on Pelican is insistant that you do it with the tires on and the car on the ground. Most seem to do it in the air anyway with the wheel removed (including the p-car write-up on bearings). And then yet another write-up says that you're taking your life in your hands if you don't replace the axle nut. Seems like a good idea with the torque on it, but I only saw that detail in one place on a 944 write-up.
Also, I've noticed huge price disparities between Pelican and Sunset on these items. I guess that's the difference between Porsche parts and Loebro parts. Sunset is cheaper than Pelican on the Porsche parts, but Pelican also sells Loebro parts which are much cheaper still. No clue on quality differences.

The last point of contention are the tools. I swear that some people spend almost as much as the shop would charge just buying the tools. I guess the shop charge is over $1000 and the tools could run $500, so that's a bit of an exageration. But the 400 ft/lb 3/4" torque wrench, 32mm socket, CV puller, and the bearing puller add up to some pretty hefty tool bills that you won't use much. When I do this, I'll rent the torque wrench and puller and do a Home Depot rig on the bearing puller.

So there's my book report on this topic. Hope it helps.

 

M22 x 1.5. 339 ft-lbs.

Steve

 

Are those tears, or sweat