Lower Dash Removal
07-06-2006, 01:39 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Lower Dash Removal
I removed my lower dash the other day and took some pics that I thought I'd share.
Lower Dash Removal
There are (2) bolts on either side of the dash, two bolts behind the ash tray and a bolt under each of the CCU and Radio.
Left side
(2) screws for cover, (2) 10mm bolts
Lower Dash Removal
There are (2) bolts on either side of the dash, two bolts behind the ash tray and a bolt under each of the CCU and Radio.
Left side
(2) screws for cover, (2) 10mm bolts
07-06-2006, 01:41 AM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ash Tray
Remove tray from ash tray assembly, pull down spring loaded lid and remove the (2) 8mm bolts. (actually, I think these were philips head screws)
The ash tray assembly comes out with a bit of gentle prying.
There are two tabs on the lower end so pull the top away and then pull the assembly up.
Remove tray from ash tray assembly, pull down spring loaded lid and remove the (2) 8mm bolts. (actually, I think these were philips head screws)
The ash tray assembly comes out with a bit of gentle prying.
There are two tabs on the lower end so pull the top away and then pull the assembly up.
Last edited by dfinnegan; 07-06-2006 at 02:19 AM.
07-06-2006, 01:44 AM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
CCU and Radio Bolts
Pull the CCU and Radio using the appropriate tool or a bent coat hanger. I used a piece of 12 gauge wire and a bit of fiddling from behind the dash
The radio was easier to pull as it is after market in my case. I could then reach the right hand side of the CCU from the radio hole and I pushed the left hand side from below with the open end of a 14mm wrench on the lower left edge of the unit.
The connectors on the back of the CCU are hooked at one end and clipped at the other. Push the clip release and gently prise that end loose. Then pull that end straight back until the hook end can be freed. Keep the connector level and go straight back with it. Getting these connectors back on is similar, but a bit more sensitive to the alignment. I definitely did not want to damage these parts as the CCU is expensive!
Once the CCU and Radio are out you must remove their sheet metal enclosures. These are held in place with bent tabs - two sets along bottom and top, one on each side. I simply pried them gently back with a small screw driver
The bolt under the CCU is on the left hand side. The socket wrench in the picture is on the bolt. Careful with the nut and (2) washers. The dash frame can "eat" these bits. I lost one washer under the radio, but was able to get it out with a bit of wire from one side. You'll see what I mean when you get there.
The bolt under the Radio is the mirror opposite of this one.
Here is the bolt hole under the CCU. The dash has a fixed threaded rod that goes through this hole during reassembly. The washers (large one first) go on and then the nut is secured.
During assembly you'll want to secure the nut under the radio first! I failed to do this, having done the sides and ash tray bolts first, and was then unable to get the washers and nut on under the radio. The clearance was too tight. I did get the washers and nut back on under the CCU and left it at that. Some day I'll have this off again and get it right that time. Oh, and put the nuts on before you put the tin bits back in. Very difficult access once these are back in. Ask me how I know!
Pull the CCU and Radio using the appropriate tool or a bent coat hanger. I used a piece of 12 gauge wire and a bit of fiddling from behind the dash
The radio was easier to pull as it is after market in my case. I could then reach the right hand side of the CCU from the radio hole and I pushed the left hand side from below with the open end of a 14mm wrench on the lower left edge of the unit.
The connectors on the back of the CCU are hooked at one end and clipped at the other. Push the clip release and gently prise that end loose. Then pull that end straight back until the hook end can be freed. Keep the connector level and go straight back with it. Getting these connectors back on is similar, but a bit more sensitive to the alignment. I definitely did not want to damage these parts as the CCU is expensive!
Once the CCU and Radio are out you must remove their sheet metal enclosures. These are held in place with bent tabs - two sets along bottom and top, one on each side. I simply pried them gently back with a small screw driver
The bolt under the CCU is on the left hand side. The socket wrench in the picture is on the bolt. Careful with the nut and (2) washers. The dash frame can "eat" these bits. I lost one washer under the radio, but was able to get it out with a bit of wire from one side. You'll see what I mean when you get there.
The bolt under the Radio is the mirror opposite of this one.
Here is the bolt hole under the CCU. The dash has a fixed threaded rod that goes through this hole during reassembly. The washers (large one first) go on and then the nut is secured.
During assembly you'll want to secure the nut under the radio first! I failed to do this, having done the sides and ash tray bolts first, and was then unable to get the washers and nut on under the radio. The clearance was too tight. I did get the washers and nut back on under the CCU and left it at that. Some day I'll have this off again and get it right that time. Oh, and put the nuts on before you put the tin bits back in. Very difficult access once these are back in. Ask me how I know!
07-06-2006, 01:45 AM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Globe Box Wiring
The glove box does not need to be removed from the lower dash. However, there is a wire for the light which can be disconnected right near the diagnostic connection port.
Here's the source of the glove box wire from the lower side of the dash piece. This pic shows the dash rolled forward with the underside showing.
The glove box does not need to be removed from the lower dash. However, there is a wire for the light which can be disconnected right near the diagnostic connection port.
Here's the source of the glove box wire from the lower side of the dash piece. This pic shows the dash rolled forward with the underside showing.
07-06-2006, 01:46 AM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Lower Dash, CCU and Radio Removed
There's now a very good view of all of the bits under the dash. I spent quite a while poking around for future reference.
Note the two bolt holes from behind the ash tray.
There's now a very good view of all of the bits under the dash. I spent quite a while poking around for future reference.
Note the two bolt holes from behind the ash tray.
07-06-2006, 01:47 AM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Central Informer
On the left hand side is the central informer. The right hand white connector was a bit loose on mine. I re-seated it and am so far unable to reproduce my master alarm (!) light going on by itself with no other warning lights. I used to be able to reach under the dash while driving and wiggle that large wire loom and get the light to go off when it popped on. I could even get the light to come on if it wasn't. I can no longer reproduce this effort. I'm hoping that I've fixed the problem. It could have been some other part of the wire loom that I've just rearanged with my fiddling. Time will tell. Note that this was the whole point of the lower dash removal.
On the left hand side is the central informer. The right hand white connector was a bit loose on mine. I re-seated it and am so far unable to reproduce my master alarm (!) light going on by itself with no other warning lights. I used to be able to reach under the dash while driving and wiggle that large wire loom and get the light to go off when it popped on. I could even get the light to come on if it wasn't. I can no longer reproduce this effort. I'm hoping that I've fixed the problem. It could have been some other part of the wire loom that I've just rearanged with my fiddling. Time will tell. Note that this was the whole point of the lower dash removal.
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07-06-2006, 01:48 AM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Relay - 928.618.102.00
I thought this was the gong relay, but it could be the flash relay or even the rear wiper relay. Interestingly the part number does not come up in the PET. There are a couple that are close, but not the exact one. Perhaps it's been superceded.
I had come to believe that this relay was causing my master alarm problem as I could see before I removed the dash that it was not well seated. I just couldn't reach it to get it properly seated. I did seat this a little better, but really believe the problem was wiring related once I got in here as it was pretty easy to get the master alarm light to come on by itself when wiggling the wiring near the right hand central informer connector.
I thought this was the gong relay, but it could be the flash relay or even the rear wiper relay. Interestingly the part number does not come up in the PET. There are a couple that are close, but not the exact one. Perhaps it's been superceded.
I had come to believe that this relay was causing my master alarm problem as I could see before I removed the dash that it was not well seated. I just couldn't reach it to get it properly seated. I did seat this a little better, but really believe the problem was wiring related once I got in here as it was pretty easy to get the master alarm light to come on by itself when wiggling the wiring near the right hand central informer connector.
07-06-2006, 01:49 AM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Left Hand Side Heat Duct
Pretty good shot of the left hand side heat duct (tan corrogated tube). These are know to rot or otherwise come loose causing serious heat issues.
Pretty good shot of the left hand side heat duct (tan corrogated tube). These are know to rot or otherwise come loose causing serious heat issues.
07-06-2006, 01:49 AM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
CCU Connectors
My connector wires were loose making it easy to pull the CCU out of the dash. Well, there was a bit of fiddling around the blinker and cruise control stalks. I've seen others post that this wire harness was zip-tied and needed to be cut free before pulling the unit from the dash. Probably mine's been out before.
My connector wires were loose making it easy to pull the CCU out of the dash. Well, there was a bit of fiddling around the blinker and cruise control stalks. I've seen others post that this wire harness was zip-tied and needed to be cut free before pulling the unit from the dash. Probably mine's been out before.
07-06-2006, 01:50 AM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
Right Hand Side Heat Duct
And the diagnostic port connection. I'm not positive, but I think the diagnostic port wiring goes to another connector back a ways similar to the one in the upper left of this photo. Could be that connector is easier to source and folks doing the DIY diagnostic software system could make use of that connector. Just a thought. I forgot to pursue the wiring harness all the way back. Too many distractions under here.
And the diagnostic port connection. I'm not positive, but I think the diagnostic port wiring goes to another connector back a ways similar to the one in the upper left of this photo. Could be that connector is easier to source and folks doing the DIY diagnostic software system could make use of that connector. Just a thought. I forgot to pursue the wiring harness all the way back. Too many distractions under here.
07-06-2006, 01:51 AM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Air Bag Controller
Another shot. I'm not sure what the loose wiring is with the exposed metal braid and connector. there is a round multi-pin connector there, too. I suspect it's part of the original radio hook up, but I just don't know. I did a better job of securing that loose wire, but, come to think of it, I failed to tape it up with black electrical tape to insulate it. Hope I don't regret that!
Another shot. I'm not sure what the loose wiring is with the exposed metal braid and connector. there is a round multi-pin connector there, too. I suspect it's part of the original radio hook up, but I just don't know. I did a better job of securing that loose wire, but, come to think of it, I failed to tape it up with black electrical tape to insulate it. Hope I don't regret that!