Dave,

You mean up inside the door (where the red arrow points)?

Marc
p.s. the rusted window channel will be replaced with the window regulator.

 

I assume that the hinge is to the right, in which case, yes, I'd like to see the barrel of the door lock and what's around it. That is, the cylinder that the key slides into. Apparently there is a micro switch associated with this ***'y that I don't seem to have; or can't discern.

If you can get your camera in the door that'd be great, but don't go to any real trouble.

Pulling that cylinder is a rather fiddly job. Most folks have called it a PITA. It is a bit dedious, to be sure. The space is rather tight.

Thanks!
Dave

 

Marc,

Actually, do you see that white wire on the bottom left of the opening in your picture? Follow that up to the left. Where it leads is where I'm interested. Or so I believe . . .

 

Micro switch is not adjustable, as far I can tell, and the white flap that actuates it is inside the lock barrel, so if you slide the barrel out of the handle you will see a clear plastic collar around the lock, if you then look into the hole where the barrel cam out of you should be able to see a small white flap with a ‘pimple’ on it which mates into the clear plastic collar. If you can’t see the flap, then you’ve broken the actuator part of it off, and this would (I’m pretty sure) give the symptoms you have.

 

Graham,

Thanks! Things are beginning to clear up.

Question: what is the function of this micro switch?

It appears to me that this switch can only detect the rotation of the key barrel and thus activate the lock/unlocking of the door.

In my case, this funcationality works just fine. The key in either door will drive the locks down. The problem is that the locks then pop back up a few seconds later.

What is the mechanism that detects that the doors are, in fact, locked when the key has been turned to lock the door?

It seems to me that when attempting to lock the doors with the key my system is failing to detect that the doors have been successfully locked. I was under the impression that this "micro switch" was some how involved.

I'm sorry for being so dense about this issue. I just can't seem to figure where the error is.

Cheers,
Dave

 

afik it is the micro switch that detects the door locking - hence the problems, and the buttons popping back up all the time, at least it was in my case - I could lock the door on the key, but not by remote central locking or by the door lock button on the center console.

 

This will also happen if you try to use a key to lock the doors when you have a dead battery.

 

Interesting. Is the system smart enough to know that the battery isn't strong enough to get them open again?

I don't think my battery is lacking in any way. The car always starts strong and a couple of days ago my son left the interior light on for a couple of hours. with no discernable change in the starting power.

Thanks for the input, though. I'm always happy to tap into the knowledge base in your head!

Cheers,
Dave

 

up inside the door.

Marc

 

Thanks, Marc. Great quality, any way.

I'll take some more pics when I disassemble again.

Cheers,
Dave

 

Hi guys. I've fixed my door. turns out my doors have a very non-porsche motor/actuator that has been fixed using a metal strip bracket. Actuator is made in Italy. Go figure. Works very well actually, and would be easy to fix if it failed.

Jaime

 

Tip: Autozone/Pepboys/O'reillys sell stainless steel screws. I Thinks it's a good idea to switch out to stainless, especially for cabs. Most common is a #8X3/4inch long. For speakers you can get #8X1inch long.

Jaime

 

I've solved the problem with my door locks.

Turns out it was an adjustment of the postion of the drive actuator. This is mounted insdie the door, toward the back of the door, down low. It mounts on two slide slots. The actuator just needed to be moved up a bit. All's well, including the alarm.

I also learned that the microswitch comes off the lock barrel by gently prying at one of the points where it clips onto the lock barrel. On the underside of the microswitch there is a small nipple which is activated one way, or the other, when the door lock is turned. It's sole purpose is to drive the locks closed or open. There is no position information available here.

There is a postion switch within the drive actuator. if the actuator is mounted too low then the switch does not activate when the doors lock. The system thinks the doors did not lock and then unlocks to doors.

This switch also prevents the alarm from arming when the locks are closed via the central console or manually.

I took pictures, planing to create a DIY, but they came out really badly. My hand is in nice focus. As is the box and bhe background behind it. Arg.

If anyone wants any additional information feel free to PM me. I'd be happy to help out.

Thanks again for the constant support from this site.

Cheers,
Dave

 

Now that you have done it , it shouldnt take to long to take it apart and do new pictures

 

Guys, my door lock problem is even more strange than this. Initially, drivers door would lock, then unlock, after 6 tries, it would lock and stay locked. Now it wont lock at all, and the manual lock **** on the drivers side is frozen, I can't turn it at all. Central lock works fine for passenger side, but no joy on drivers side. Any ideas? '85 Euro 930