Door Lock Problems and Question
06-16-2006, 04:29 PM
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
The lock/unlock problem is what I was having with the acuator limit switch. Once I moved the actuating motor up a slight bit that problem went away.
The frozed drivers side sounds like a mechanical problem. Pull the handle and check out the end of the locking barrel. I could be the lever is close to comming off and has jammed. There is a single screw that holds the lever in place and that tends to back out in time.
Good luck.
Cheers,
Dave
The frozed drivers side sounds like a mechanical problem. Pull the handle and check out the end of the locking barrel. I could be the lever is close to comming off and has jammed. There is a single screw that holds the lever in place and that tends to back out in time.
Good luck.
Cheers,
Dave
12-23-2006, 03:05 PM
#32
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I was reading your posts from some time ago on lock problems. How did you realize that you needed to move the actuator up? I replaced my drivers side micro switch but now I can't turn the lock **** to lock the door and when I use the key in the drivers side the lock doesn't go down. The actuator actuates but the mechanism is frozen. Any ideas? Does this sound like your issue?
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
Originally Posted by dfinnegan
I've solved the problem with my door locks.
Turns out it was an adjustment of the postion of the drive actuator. This is mounted insdie the door, toward the back of the door, down low. It mounts on two slide slots. The actuator just needed to be moved up a bit. All's well, including the alarm.
I also learned that the microswitch comes off the lock barrel by gently prying at one of the points where it clips onto the lock barrel. On the underside of the microswitch there is a small nipple which is activated one way, or the other, when the door lock is turned. It's sole purpose is to drive the locks closed or open. There is no position information available here.
There is a postion switch within the drive actuator. if the actuator is mounted too low then the switch does not activate when the doors lock. The system thinks the doors did not lock and then unlocks to doors.
This switch also prevents the alarm from arming when the locks are closed via the central console or manually.
I took pictures, planing to create a DIY, but they came out really badly. My hand is in nice focus. As is the box and bhe background behind it. Arg.
If anyone wants any additional information feel free to PM me. I'd be happy to help out.
Thanks again for the constant support from this site.
Cheers,
Dave
Turns out it was an adjustment of the postion of the drive actuator. This is mounted insdie the door, toward the back of the door, down low. It mounts on two slide slots. The actuator just needed to be moved up a bit. All's well, including the alarm.
I also learned that the microswitch comes off the lock barrel by gently prying at one of the points where it clips onto the lock barrel. On the underside of the microswitch there is a small nipple which is activated one way, or the other, when the door lock is turned. It's sole purpose is to drive the locks closed or open. There is no position information available here.
There is a postion switch within the drive actuator. if the actuator is mounted too low then the switch does not activate when the doors lock. The system thinks the doors did not lock and then unlocks to doors.
This switch also prevents the alarm from arming when the locks are closed via the central console or manually.
I took pictures, planing to create a DIY, but they came out really badly. My hand is in nice focus. As is the box and bhe background behind it. Arg.
If anyone wants any additional information feel free to PM me. I'd be happy to help out.
Thanks again for the constant support from this site.
Cheers,
Dave
12-23-2006, 04:51 PM
#33
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Got it figured out. I had the catch mechanism (gold colored piece on the outside of the door that latches to the car) in the wrong position when playing with the lock. It somehow wound up about 30 degrees up from the actual door open position. I rotated it one click down for the actual open position and then another for door closed position. The manual rod and key-actuated lock mechanism now works perfectly.
12-23-2006, 04:57 PM
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
Doesn't sound like my issue. Sounds like you may have not quite gotten things back together correctly. Is that possible?
My case, as I recall, was that the lock would actuate and then open again. I reasoned that the "closed" limit switch was not activating thus prompting me to move the actuator; which worked.
Wish I could be more useful to you.
By the way, congrats on your first post. Folks'll be looking for pics, so be prepared!
I have manuals and the PET parts catalog so feel free to ask if you need more assistance.
Cheers,
Dave
My case, as I recall, was that the lock would actuate and then open again. I reasoned that the "closed" limit switch was not activating thus prompting me to move the actuator; which worked.
Wish I could be more useful to you.
By the way, congrats on your first post. Folks'll be looking for pics, so be prepared!
I have manuals and the PET parts catalog so feel free to ask if you need more assistance.
Cheers,
Dave
12-28-2006, 11:09 AM
#36
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Thanks for the reply Dave. I just got the new handle seals, door seal and inner door pulls. While it is still all apart I will take some pics and hang on to them if the need should arrise beyond the pics I have already seen here and on Pelican Parts.
Sean
Black '91 C4 Coupe
Sean
Black '91 C4 Coupe
12-28-2006, 12:13 PM
#37
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hi-- related issue with lock cylinder. when removing the key from the drivers side after locking, i was somewhat surprised to have the lock cylinder in my hand as well as the key. reading the posts, it seems to be correct that there is some magnetic sensing of the turning of the lock cylinder, as the door locks and unlocks without the cylinder being attached to the lock, just placed in the hole, and turned with the key. the question is --- what holds the cylinder to the door handle??? thanks tom
12-28-2006, 03:02 PM
#38
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Tom,
I am not able to post pictures, but if you do a search on the Pelicanparts technical forum for the user Ryan82911sc and "door locking problems" you will find a picture of the screw that holds the core in. It is the fourth picture down and is shown right in the middle of the brass colored piece. When I had my handle out this screw was what released the core. I have read in other posts that this screw can rotate out over time.
Hope that helps,
Sean
I am not able to post pictures, but if you do a search on the Pelicanparts technical forum for the user Ryan82911sc and "door locking problems" you will find a picture of the screw that holds the core in. It is the fourth picture down and is shown right in the middle of the brass colored piece. When I had my handle out this screw was what released the core. I have read in other posts that this screw can rotate out over time.
Hope that helps,
Sean
12-29-2006, 01:27 PM
#40
Drifting
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As long as we are all sharing our door lock problems, mine is sporadically doing the following:
If I turn the motor off and open the driver's door, the horn alarm starts bleeting like a sick sheep. If I restart the engine, it stops. But if I turn the engine off and open the door, it does it again. If I get out of the car, shut the door, and try to lock or unlock the door locks using the key, the key simply turns in the lock barrel, but doesn't lock the doors or stop the horn from bleeting. If I let the car sit for about a minute (with the horn bleeting), it will eventually stop on its own. The central lock switch on the console doesn't seem to correct the problem either. But the odd thing is that it only does all of this once in a while, not consistently.
Microswitch in the driver's door?
If I turn the motor off and open the driver's door, the horn alarm starts bleeting like a sick sheep. If I restart the engine, it stops. But if I turn the engine off and open the door, it does it again. If I get out of the car, shut the door, and try to lock or unlock the door locks using the key, the key simply turns in the lock barrel, but doesn't lock the doors or stop the horn from bleeting. If I let the car sit for about a minute (with the horn bleeting), it will eventually stop on its own. The central lock switch on the console doesn't seem to correct the problem either. But the odd thing is that it only does all of this once in a while, not consistently.
Microswitch in the driver's door?
12-29-2006, 06:57 PM
#42
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My faulty microswitch was easy to identify. After I removed the two bolts from inside the door and pulled the handle off I used a very thin flat screwdriver to pop the microswitch off of the assembly. The small "paddle" that moves back and forth to signal door lock or unlock was not centered anymore and contained loose plastic. That paddle could be stuck in one position, signalling the control unit that the doors are locked and you are trying to break in?
Sean
Sean
03-26-2008, 08:25 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Dave,
This sounds exactly like what mine is doing now. I lock it it unlocks streight away it is as if if thinks teh door is open. which is why ive been messing with teh door switches for a day to no avail. I will take the door card off and see if I can raise the actuator as you did.
Assuming I will spot the actuator easily having never seen one before
I take it it looks like a little motor or something?
This sounds exactly like what mine is doing now. I lock it it unlocks streight away it is as if if thinks teh door is open. which is why ive been messing with teh door switches for a day to no avail. I will take the door card off and see if I can raise the actuator as you did.
Assuming I will spot the actuator easily having never seen one before
I take it it looks like a little motor or something?I've solved the problem with my door locks.
Turns out it was an adjustment of the postion of the drive actuator. This is mounted insdie the door, toward the back of the door, down low. It mounts on two slide slots. The actuator just needed to be moved up a bit. All's well, including the alarm.
I also learned that the microswitch comes off the lock barrel by gently prying at one of the points where it clips onto the lock barrel. On the underside of the microswitch there is a small nipple which is activated one way, or the other, when the door lock is turned. It's sole purpose is to drive the locks closed or open. There is no position information available here.
There is a postion switch within the drive actuator. if the actuator is mounted too low then the switch does not activate when the doors lock. The system thinks the doors did not lock and then unlocks to doors.
This switch also prevents the alarm from arming when the locks are closed via the central console or manually.
I took pictures, planing to create a DIY, but they came out really badly. My hand is in nice focus. As is the box and bhe background behind it. Arg.
If anyone wants any additional information feel free to PM me. I'd be happy to help out.
Thanks again for the constant support from this site.
Cheers,
Dave
Turns out it was an adjustment of the postion of the drive actuator. This is mounted insdie the door, toward the back of the door, down low. It mounts on two slide slots. The actuator just needed to be moved up a bit. All's well, including the alarm.
I also learned that the microswitch comes off the lock barrel by gently prying at one of the points where it clips onto the lock barrel. On the underside of the microswitch there is a small nipple which is activated one way, or the other, when the door lock is turned. It's sole purpose is to drive the locks closed or open. There is no position information available here.
There is a postion switch within the drive actuator. if the actuator is mounted too low then the switch does not activate when the doors lock. The system thinks the doors did not lock and then unlocks to doors.
This switch also prevents the alarm from arming when the locks are closed via the central console or manually.
I took pictures, planing to create a DIY, but they came out really badly. My hand is in nice focus. As is the box and bhe background behind it. Arg.
If anyone wants any additional information feel free to PM me. I'd be happy to help out.
Thanks again for the constant support from this site.
Cheers,
Dave
03-27-2008, 12:24 AM
#44
Drifting
Thread Starter
Actually, it's pretty big. I had to cut open some sound deadening material stuck to the door. I cut carefully along the metal; not in the opening. That way I could re-stick it back down; if that makes sense. Basically I cut a hole bigger than the hole in the door.
Anyway, once open you can reach your hand in and feel the actuator mounted to the inside of the door toward the rear.
I hope this makes sense . . . I've been drinkgin!
Good luck!
Anyway, once open you can reach your hand in and feel the actuator mounted to the inside of the door toward the rear.
I hope this makes sense . . . I've been drinkgin!
Good luck!
03-27-2008, 07:29 PM
#45
Instructor
I have a sort of similar problem with my locks.
I can lock and unlock the doors no worries with either key or alarm fob thing, but once unlocked, if I start the car the doors lock themselves, and the central locking switch does nothing, buts its light stays on. when I kill the engine, the doors unlock.
If I rotate the door lock manually, both doors unlock fine.
Not a big problem just a little niggle - does anyone have any ideas on this?
I suspect the central lock switch, how do I get into that?
Cheers
Adam
I can lock and unlock the doors no worries with either key or alarm fob thing, but once unlocked, if I start the car the doors lock themselves, and the central locking switch does nothing, buts its light stays on. when I kill the engine, the doors unlock.
If I rotate the door lock manually, both doors unlock fine.
Not a big problem just a little niggle - does anyone have any ideas on this?
I suspect the central lock switch, how do I get into that?
Cheers
Adam