AndrewM

Well, after checking with the shop on how much they wanted to replace a outer CV boot, I decided to tackle the job myself($325 labor only btw). Went and bought the 32mm socket(10 bucks) and with a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a long pipe it was no big deal, nice and easy. Looks like the boot was ripped and the outer aluminum covering were the large part of the boot attaches was bent, causing the boot to rip. Looks like I'm in the market for a new or rebuilt half-shaft. Any ideas?? New vs. rebuilt?
Drew
89 C4
86 930

WMRiceman

One of my boots is ripped as well and I’m about to start the change out today actually. Best deal for replacing the boot is <a href="http://www.vertexauto.com." target="_blank">www.vertexauto.com.</a> The boot kit is around $20. The kit comes with 1 boot, 2 clamps, 2 packets of CV grease, 1 cover, and 1 clip. I went by the friendly Porsche dealer and they wanted $75 for the kit. Both are made by lobro and both contain the same items. Vertex will sell you the whole half axle for around $185 (rebuilt). If your boot has been split for some time, sand and grit may have gotten into the CV joint and destroyed it. If that is the case, you can either replace the joint or just go ahead and buy the half shaft. Hope this helps, I’ll keep you informed on my replacement today, mark

AndrewM

Yep, your the secomd guy who gave the thumbs up to Vertex. I'll be calling today to get the new part shipped. Let me know how your's turns out.
Drew
89 C4
86 930

WMRiceman

Andrew,
Just finished the job on the CV boots. One word, Messy. It really was not that hard but I do have some pointers for you. Clean the 6 allen bolt heads out good so you get a good seat of the wrench. A couple of taps from a hammer won’t hurt. When you put the new boot on and you get ready to squeeze on the new clamp make sure it’s not lined up with one of the allen bolt holes. I screwed this up on one of mine and getting the bolt in was a bear but I got it. Would have been much easier if it wasn’t lined up with the hole. When you get to this point you’ll see what I’m talking about. One point to make is that the Bentley book and the Porsche manual has different values for the torque of the 6 allen bolts.

Bentley calls for 33ft lbs. for the M-10 (that’s the one I have) and 26-ft lbs. for the M-8

Porsche lists 59-ft lbs. for the M-10 and 31 ft lbs. for the M-8 version.

When I was putting it all back together I was following the Bentley manual and set them at 33 ft lbs. but that didn’t seem like it was as tight as when I was taking it apart. I’m going to go back tomorrow and re-torque them to Porsche’s spec of 59-ft lbs. I’ll let you know if I rip the head off the bolt so you’ll know to stick to the Bentley recommendation.

Put an old sock on the parking brake handle because your going to be setting and releasing it a lot and your hands are going to be a mess. The best way to get to the bolts was when they are in the middle facing forward (Right one 3 o’clock, left one 9 o’clock). All other positions will not allow you to get a torque wrench on them. Set the brake and loosen or tighten the one in that position, release the brake and rotate the axle to line up the next one.

Tools you can’t do it without:
32mm socket
8mm allen head socket
CV boot clamp pliers
Retainer clip pliers
Big impact wrench for the axle nut, you could use a breaker bar though.
Torque wrench

Just took the car out and it is doing fine. You will notice every little noise from the rear end at first thinking the CV’s are making noise. I found a smooth road and made sure all was quiet. I only had 1 boot that was split but I went ahead and did all 4. Total cost was $85 for the 4 boot kits. Took me about 10 hours but I took some cigar breaks. Had a nice Cohiba when I was finished. Hope this helps, Mark

AndrewM

Mark,
Great write-up. I should have put the sock on the brake handle, I wasn't thinking. Wish I had a helper at that time, geez..under the car, get up from under car, under car.....
Did you re-torque the allen head screws (I'll have to check, but I swear mine were 6mm) to the higher torque settings? One of the other guys(Horst) says you should use Locktite also, how about you?
Drew
89 C4
86 930

WMRiceman

Andrew,
Looks like if you have the 6mm allen heads, you have the M-8 bolts. 26ft lbs or 31 ft lbs depending on the book you look at. I did go back and re-torque my M-10 bolts to the Porsche spec of 59 ft lbs. Both books call for something called Optimoly HT to coat the threads with. That was that orange/pink stuff on the threads of the axle bolt when you took it apart. This is more of an anti-seize than a lock tight. I used a high temp anti-seize (1600 deg) for those 6 bolts and also the axle nut and axle spline. You could put some loc-tight on the 6 bolts but I’m betting you will have a real problem getting them off next time. I used some loc-tight on that silly heat shroud for the Cat that seems to always work loose and almost didn’t get that thing off when I was doing my valve adjustment. I’m not so much of a fan of loc-tight everywhere now. Anti-seize and proper torque is what the books called for here so I went with that.

My question to you is what did you use to torque your axle nut? I have a big ½ inch impact gun (up to 500 ft lbs.) and I used it on setting 2 (270 to 350) and then touched it up a little on setting 3 (350 to 420). I’m still in search for a torque wrench to set it right. 339 or 340 depending on the book. I’m going to go by some truck repair shops to see what it would take to borrow one. E-bay always has them but I haven’t seen one for less than $100. I really don’t won’t to buy one for a one time use.

I did drive the car 30 miles or so before I re-torqued the flange bolts and I’m happy to say everything on the new boots is looking good. I have to say even the ones that still had an intact boot did not have nearly the amount of grease I put back in from the kit. I guess after 13 years it wasn’t a bad idea to repack them if your already in there.


You do have me thinking about those flange bolts coming loose though. I think I’ll be checking them at my next oil change just for some piece of mind. Mark

horst

Use medium-strength lock-tite, and re-check. If you've torqued to 2 grunts each, you will probably be ok. Just visualize the mayhem that would result if one let go "at speed"! Mine let go backing out of the driveway (luck of the Irish). Look underneath- mine was the innner on the driver's side. Look in that area, and see what a wild war-club flayling about in that area would do.

horst

BTW, I have heard- only heard- that the allen head bolts are meant a one-time use only. Supposedly this is due to a peculiar profile in the pitch of the threads that cause them to be self-locking. I tried to find new ones, but for some reason or other, either non-availabilty, cost or some such (I don't remember- it's been a couple of years), I opted to re-use. Except for the near disaster mentioned above I have not have had any trouble.

AndrewM

Mark,
I don't know what I'm going to use to torque the axle nut back on. I was going to do what you stated, going to a truck place cause they gotta have a torque wrench that goes this high. I think I'll go with your advice and use lube and the correct torque settings. I'm afraid that with that little 6mm head that when it comes time to do more work I won't be able to get them off.
Drew

Drew_K

There's a 964 axle half shaft for sale on ebay right now.

<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872684719&sspagename=ADME:B:SS:US:1" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872684719&sspagename=ADME:B:SS:US:1</a>

AndrewM

Yeah, saw the link. It's for a C2 , I have a C4. Besides, I found one brand new for $190 from bmaautoparts.com Price seems to good though, we'll see if they come through.
Drew
89 C4
86 930

horst

Anrew, the torque on the axle nut is not that critical. Just put the long cheater bar on that you used to get it off in the first place, give it about 1.75 grunts on the end of the bar. Don't worry. Be happy.