scotsman60

Hello all,

I'm planning a 60k service on my '90 C2 Tip this weekend and plan on doing the tip as part of this. I was planning to replace the fluid and clean the strainer - replacing the "O" ring and transmission cover gasket only.

Now I read on ALLDATA that there is a "transmission filter" - part number 9433070110.

Does anyone know what this is, where it goes and how I'd go about replacing it? Hopefully it's just the same thing as the strainer and I don't need to replace it - just clean it....

Many thanks in advance to anyone to who can help me with this,


Doug

mojorizing

Hi Doug,
Looking at my PET CD, it shows part# 943 307 011 01 as the "oil strainer"...the suction strainer in the pan. I believe that is what ALLDATA is referring to.....no other filter/strainer that I could see. Also, expect to see 2 magnets in the sump pan. There are also seal washers around the pan bolts, other than that looks like you have all the info. I don't know the procedure on servicing the tip, but mine is due and I'd like to DIY myself. I recall a thread about the Hammer being a requirement for this service, but can't find it now...however if the oil level is correct now, replacing oil with the exact amount removed might be a work-around on this issue. Let me know if anything out of the ordinary occurs.

mojorizing

More info Doug,
Looking at Bentley's "Without Guesswork":

"ATF level checked with the following conditions:
-transmission splash shield removed(?)
-car level
-engine idling
-park brake applied
-shifter on park
ATF fluid temp. at 176 deg F using tester 9288 aka "Da Hammer"

Complete refill is 9.5 qts of Dexron II D....change is only 3.2 quarts.

Torques as follows:
ATF pan bolts 7ft-lbs
ATF strainer to vavle body 6ft-lbs
Drain plug 30ft-lbs

Looks to me like a 2 beer job out of a possible 6 pack. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

GaryN

Hi Doug,

Please let us "Tipsters" know how the oil change goes, Richard and I are both thinking of doing it on our cars but a "bit wary" to tackle the beast. I'm very keen to learn how stressful this job is and can an average DIY'er tackle it.

Cheers
Gary '91 C2

scotsman60

Tipsters,

Thanx for the info. I shall boldly go first into the land of Tip servicing. I may be gone some time but on my return I will report on my findings.....

BTW - I had my Tiptronic unit replaced last year after hitting a chunk of wood on the freeway broke the lines to the oil cooler and dumped all of the fluid out onto the road - quite an expensive event. Although there is a transmission warning light on the dash it gave NO indication that there was anythiong wrong until way after the transmission was toast.

Doug

GaryN

Hi Doug,

Thanks, How about taking some digital photo's of the process involved?? so we can share the info to all "tipster's" on this board...

Thanks and Good Luck. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

Gary '91 C2

Jacks911

A Cheep Hammer idea?

176 degrees would be easy to measure with one of the new digital Meat Thermomitors. My wife has one with a long cable probe. I used it to test A/C output temp - it will read down to 40 and up to 350 I think. May even give a good idea of temp from the case metal. If that does not work removing the rapid filler neck - engine stopped of course - would be a resonable way to test though it may take several tries??? <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

mojorizing

Oil...shmoil!

Concerning the ATF Dexron II D...I called my local auto parts store and they don't carry Dexron II, they offer Dexron III and their cross reference states that the III supersedes the II. I followed this up by calling the service dept. at Niello Porsche in Sacramento and they confirmed the use of III. Anybody have anything that conflicts with this info? I'm rarrin' to do some maintenance on my go-fast machine!!!! <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />

scotsman60

Mojo, Jack,


I just bought one of those digital thermometers with a flexible probe for this very purpose!!! I'll let you know how it works out after I do the service. I planned to do it this weekend as part of the 60k service but my parts didn't arrive in time....


I got the same info about Dexron IID. I couldn't find the stuff anywhere - everything is Dexron III. My local Porsche dealer says to go ahead and use Dexron III - even if you have Dexron IID in there already.

By the way, any ideas where I can buy Mobil 1 synthetic motorl oil in bulk? I can only find it in 1 quart bottles which seems to be an expensive way to change 11 or so quarts of oil. If I could buy a 5 or 10 gallon drum I'd do it.


Doug

Kevin

As Mojorizing has said, it is easy to measure the fluid that you have taken out. My wifes tippy had no leaks so what came out was measured and I put the same amount back in. It is easier to add 2 quarts in the pan and gently lift back in place. Grab a plastic hose that will fit on the fill fitting, and buy a plastic hand pump that is used to pump gear oil in a differential. Make an allowance for the fluid in the line. Pump away.....

scotsman60

I just noticed that the Tiptronic control unit has an input from the transmission for temperature. Maybe I can splice into that line and figure out the temperature from the voltage. If I have any success I'll let you know.

Kevin - I'm planning on doing what you say - looking at the level with the car hot before draining and then putting back the same amount initially. Then I'll run till it's hot again and double check the level.

Doug

scotsman60

Another thought. Why are there two check levels, one at 30 and one at 80? Is it possible that there's a thermostat that opens the cooler and that changes the level?

Or is the 30 mark just so that you get the level halfway right when you first refill?

mojorizing

Hiya Tippies,
Over the weekend, I did my tip maintenance, ie. ATF oil change and filter. Here's some pertinet info on the service:
1) after jacking car, remove car underbody, mark level on transmission level guage, drain oil.
2) I thought about removing the plastic level guage but I found that the top is vented back to the top of the transmission case thru a rubber gromett and it didn't want to budge. So I disconnected the banjo fitting on the bottom, and this worked out better due to the fact you can drain out more fluid, especially if you loosen the pan bolts causing the pan to tilt towards the fitting hole. Remove pan and wipe out, clean magnets, renew rubber gasket.
I had what looked like Never-Seize on the magnets, normal at 60K...the drain plug is not magnetized.

To drop the filter you'll need a TORX T-27 to remove the 3 bolts that hold it. I didn't have a new filter which I recommend changing because you can't really clean the fine mesh strainer because it's encapsualted in a steel housing. I cleaned mine with solvent, and back blowing it. Reinstall with a new o-ring.

3)Reinstall pan, and reconnect level guage, fill with oil the same amount removed...in my case it was 6 quarts. The finished level was higher than the original level due to fluid draining fron hoses,cooler, etc.

4)Reinstall underbody.

I changed the engine oil and filter, and differential oil at the same time...later went out on the test drive and got the same gas mileage, same shifting action, but psychologically the car drove like it was on teflon!

Later, Kevin <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

scotsman60

Kevin,


I did my Tip maintenance this weekend as well and found that it was pretty easy to do. I followed the same path as you except that I replaced the filter instead of cleaning it - I planned to clean it but when I got it out I figured that replacing it was best ($90 from the dealer).

The only thing I did different from you was in the refilling. I bought a small fluid pump and filled it through the filler connector and put three quarts in to start with. This caused the fluid level to come up to the round about the 30 degreee mark on the level indicator tube. When I started the engine and moved the selector through the gears put it back in park and then checked the level again (with the engine running) I found the level was way too low so I stopped the engine and put in another quart. I repeated this until I got the level close to the 30 degree Max mark and then I took the car for a drive and got everything warmed up. With the car warm (30 minute drive) I then adjusted the level so that it was 15mm above the mid-range 80 degree mark. This was where it was before I started the maintenance.

All in all it was a pretty easy job. The only surprise was that it took seven quarts of ATF (Dexron III) instead of the 3 quarts that the sevice manual says. I think the three quarts must be when you don't remove the pan.

One piece of advice. WHen you remove the pan be aware that there willstill be quite a bit of oil in it after draining - the drain plug is NOT at the lowest point in the pan..... Ask me how I know


Doug

Stephen Smith

Please Doug please tell us how do you know there is oil still in the pan lower than the drain plug?

I think I'll leave the Tip service until next time.
My Porsche centre says every 40000 kms that the Tip needs to be serviced. In my case that's probably 6+ years. Do you think it would be prudent to do it once every 2 years?
Thanks
93 C2 Tip
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />