93 C2 ENGINE REMOVAL
03-18-2002, 04:32 AM
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93 C2 ENGINE REMOVAL
HELLO I have just joined your group. I have a 93 C2 in my SHOP for a CLUTCH REPLACEMENT. I have the FACTORY SHOP MANUALS but I feel they are not as COMPREHENSIVE as my EARLIER MANUALS for the 65-89 911. Certainly the ILLUSTRATIONS are not as well done as the EARLIER ones. I have a 993 and BOXSTER SETs also and they suffer from the SAME SHORTCOMINGS. Anyway my question; Is there anything that I should " WATCH OUT " for when I remove the ENGINE and GEARBOX, that perhaps the FACTORY SHOP MANUAL does not detail. I have been servicing SPORTS CARS for 30 years but I am always keen on expanding my knowledge. Any and ALL SUGGESTIONS & COMMENTS are appreciated. For those of you that are interested I have an ENGINE REMOVAL TOOL / FIXTURE specfically made for a 964 SERIES. It is made by PAUL WILDING in MISSOURI. This is a NEW TOOL for PAUL.He sells similar tools for PRE-85 911 Engine Removal.[on Ebay]. I will be glad to report back on how well the tool works. I think it will certainly work better than the BLOCK of WOOD I had mounted on my floor jack when I did a TOP - END and GEARBOX REBUILD on a 70 911E last winter. That got SCARY at times. THANKS I look forward to being part of your group and hopefully render a contribution or 2. REGARDS ALAN
03-18-2002, 05:21 AM
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Dear Alan,
Agree entirely with your comments on the manual. The removal process for the engine is quite straightforward. However make sure, double check and triple check that you have disconnected everything. When you have checked, check again. Ensure "Everything" is tied up out of the way and cannot be snagged.
I have seen this job done in 20 minutes by one man and his dog. However he does this for a living and boy is he good.
When you have the whole thing out, again make sure you do not snag anything.
Do not forget to flush your oil system remaining in the 964 whilst the engine is out.
The usual item which ends up getting damaged is the DME Flywheel Sensor.
Re-installation, ensure you do not crush anything especially oil lines.
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
PS: Do not forget the O2 sensor either.
Agree entirely with your comments on the manual. The removal process for the engine is quite straightforward. However make sure, double check and triple check that you have disconnected everything. When you have checked, check again. Ensure "Everything" is tied up out of the way and cannot be snagged.
I have seen this job done in 20 minutes by one man and his dog. However he does this for a living and boy is he good.
When you have the whole thing out, again make sure you do not snag anything.
Do not forget to flush your oil system remaining in the 964 whilst the engine is out.
The usual item which ends up getting damaged is the DME Flywheel Sensor.
Re-installation, ensure you do not crush anything especially oil lines.
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4
PS: Do not forget the O2 sensor either.
03-18-2002, 05:31 AM
#3
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Alan, you had mentioned that you have pulled/reinstalled an engine/trans. on an earlier 911...the 964 is pretty much the same, with a few exceptions.
On the left hand side of the engine bay, you will see 4 electrical connectors, all color coded either white, green, black and I believe light blue...disconnect all of those and the O2 sensor plug/harness, if I remember there is also a fuel return line (????) connection on the same bracket.
Another difference is that you will have to disconnect the power steering pump hoses and drain out the reservoir...nearby is also the spot to disconnect the main fuel feed to the injector rails.
One last good tip, ensure you remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission housing, this is easier to do once you lower the engine a few inches...remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the slave cylinder to the bellhousing, NOT the hydraulic line itself - or you'll have a BIG mess on your hands!
All in all, I think removing the engine from my 964 is easier than it was on my 911SC, mainly because it drops STRAIGHT down and some of the oil line connections make for "less mess".
I built an engine dolley out of plywood, 2x4s and four caster/roller wheels - that made things REAL handy! I used Ken Tubb's plans and it works out perfectly. The link to his website and 964 technical pages are available on <a href="http://www.Porsche964.co.uk" target="_blank">www.Porsche964.co.uk</a> - good luck! <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Please let us know if you have any specific questions once you start, you can even email me personally (for a fee
) - I LOVE this kinda stuff! 
On the left hand side of the engine bay, you will see 4 electrical connectors, all color coded either white, green, black and I believe light blue...disconnect all of those and the O2 sensor plug/harness, if I remember there is also a fuel return line (????) connection on the same bracket.
Another difference is that you will have to disconnect the power steering pump hoses and drain out the reservoir...nearby is also the spot to disconnect the main fuel feed to the injector rails.
One last good tip, ensure you remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission housing, this is easier to do once you lower the engine a few inches...remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the slave cylinder to the bellhousing, NOT the hydraulic line itself - or you'll have a BIG mess on your hands!
All in all, I think removing the engine from my 964 is easier than it was on my 911SC, mainly because it drops STRAIGHT down and some of the oil line connections make for "less mess".
I built an engine dolley out of plywood, 2x4s and four caster/roller wheels - that made things REAL handy! I used Ken Tubb's plans and it works out perfectly. The link to his website and 964 technical pages are available on <a href="http://www.Porsche964.co.uk" target="_blank">www.Porsche964.co.uk</a> - good luck! <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Please let us know if you have any specific questions once you start, you can even email me personally (for a fee
) - I LOVE this kinda stuff!
03-18-2002, 10:13 AM
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Jeff, if you love this stuff so much, why don't you come out here again and help me take the engine out of my C-4 (without cracking the hydraulics)? <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
03-18-2002, 02:24 PM
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Veloce;
Welcome to the forum. Alot of us have done this job at home, I might add that it is a good time to replace a few parts that might make your life a little easier in the future.
Power steering belt, inspect seals for leaks
With the engine/tranny out I would replace your clutch slave cylinder
Do a valve adjust and replace your plugs.
Jeff, post a picture of your dolley... I need to build one.
Welcome to the forum. Alot of us have done this job at home, I might add that it is a good time to replace a few parts that might make your life a little easier in the future.
Power steering belt, inspect seals for leaks
With the engine/tranny out I would replace your clutch slave cylinder
Do a valve adjust and replace your plugs.
Jeff, post a picture of your dolley... I need to build one.
03-20-2002, 01:25 AM
#6
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[quote]Jeff, post a picture of your dolley... I need to build one <hr></blockquote>
Will do Kevin, just need to snap a pic of it when I get home in the morning, work nights. (how else do you think I get so much quality time in on Rennlist!??)
Horst, I will be out your way again in June, if you provide the beer, and grill some of that London Broil and those crazy mushrooms you made last year...I am so there! Would be more than happy to turn a few wrenches with you.
Alan, Kevin had great advice...do adjust the valves while you have the engine at such a convenient disposition. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Will do Kevin, just need to snap a pic of it when I get home in the morning, work nights. (how else do you think I get so much quality time in on Rennlist!??)
Horst, I will be out your way again in June, if you provide the beer, and grill some of that London Broil and those crazy mushrooms you made last year...I am so there! Would be more than happy to turn a few wrenches with you.
Alan, Kevin had great advice...do adjust the valves while you have the engine at such a convenient disposition. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
03-20-2002, 08:51 AM
#7
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Here's a pic of the engine dolley I built from the basic plans on Ken Tubb's website. As you can see it's as simple as it gets:
All components can be had at your local Home Depot/Lowe's, and I believe it didn't cost over $15 to make...admittedly, I had all of the wood scraps on hand, the lag bolts and casters I had to make a special trip out for.
Here's a picture of how it sits atop your jack, once the engine is lowered out of the vehicle. There is just enough height from the casters that I can slide my jack out from underneath it and roll my engine all over the place!
...and vice versa...when the engine is ready to put back into my 964, I just slide the jack underneath the dolley, without the saddle, line it up on the center 2 x 4 beam and raise up to desired level.
Handy, quite handy...maybe Rich Waer can attest to it's usefullness, after all we used it on his RSA when he needed a new clutch/flywheel.
All components can be had at your local Home Depot/Lowe's, and I believe it didn't cost over $15 to make...admittedly, I had all of the wood scraps on hand, the lag bolts and casters I had to make a special trip out for.
Here's a picture of how it sits atop your jack, once the engine is lowered out of the vehicle. There is just enough height from the casters that I can slide my jack out from underneath it and roll my engine all over the place!
...and vice versa...when the engine is ready to put back into my 964, I just slide the jack underneath the dolley, without the saddle, line it up on the center 2 x 4 beam and raise up to desired level.
Handy, quite handy...maybe Rich Waer can attest to it's usefullness, after all we used it on his RSA when he needed a new clutch/flywheel.
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03-21-2002, 09:27 PM
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Jeff's dolley was a VERY handy device. Engine removal would have been much more difficult (and hazardous) without it.
Since Jeff has one, I haven't bothered constructing one. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Since Jeff has one, I haven't bothered constructing one. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
09-27-2004, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Curtis
Here's a pic of the engine dolley I built from the basic plans on Ken Tubb's website. As you can see it's as simple as it gets:
All components can be had at your local Home Depot/Lowe's, and I believe it didn't cost over $15 to make...admittedly, I had all of the wood scraps on hand, the lag bolts and casters I had to make a special trip out for.
Here's a picture of how it sits atop your jack, once the engine is lowered out of the vehicle. There is just enough height from the casters that I can slide my jack out from underneath it and roll my engine all over the place!
...and vice versa...when the engine is ready to put back into my 964, I just slide the jack underneath the dolley, without the saddle, line it up on the center 2 x 4 beam and raise up to desired level.
Handy, quite handy...maybe Rich Waer can attest to it's usefullness, after all we used it on his RSA when he needed a new clutch/flywheel.
All components can be had at your local Home Depot/Lowe's, and I believe it didn't cost over $15 to make...admittedly, I had all of the wood scraps on hand, the lag bolts and casters I had to make a special trip out for.
Here's a picture of how it sits atop your jack, once the engine is lowered out of the vehicle. There is just enough height from the casters that I can slide my jack out from underneath it and roll my engine all over the place!
...and vice versa...when the engine is ready to put back into my 964, I just slide the jack underneath the dolley, without the saddle, line it up on the center 2 x 4 beam and raise up to desired level.
Handy, quite handy...maybe Rich Waer can attest to it's usefullness, after all we used it on his RSA when he needed a new clutch/flywheel.
Dear Jeff,
For some strange reason I am not able to see the pictures of the dolly. I am planning to drop the engine of my 964 pretty soon and I would like to follow your advice regarding the dolly. Could you please email those pictures to me thanks alot,
Mario
09-27-2004, 06:30 PM
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Jeff,
I couldn't view it either.
I remember another design that made sense, with three 4x4's on wheels, in the shape of a "U" so the lowering jack could lower the engine onto the dolly, ie. the open end faced the back of the car so the jack could fit into it. The longer two pieces would line up under the heat exchangers.
I couldn't view it either.
I remember another design that made sense, with three 4x4's on wheels, in the shape of a "U" so the lowering jack could lower the engine onto the dolly, ie. the open end faced the back of the car so the jack could fit into it. The longer two pieces would line up under the heat exchangers.
09-27-2004, 10:19 PM
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Do yourself a HUGE favor and try and find something similar in your country to the Sears/Craftsman ATV Motorcycle jack. ($100USD) 
If you find one, dropping the engine becomes a cakewalk (unfortunately it doesn't help with loosening the oil lines). I had always wanted to drop my engine but was always afraid of having to lift the car 20 feet in the air at a 45 degree angle to try and squeeze the motor out. The more you take off the less you have to raise; I took the rear bumper off (a few rivets and some screws) and the intake manifold (9 screw clamps & maybe 6-8 10mm bolts/nuts). The result being I only need to have 18" between the ground and the jacking points between the front & rear wheels (and the car is perfectly level). The motor & transmission balances perfectly on the ATV jack and you can drag the motor all over your garage (or driveway) if you want and you don't have to worry about the thing falling off (you can also lift the engine to about 2-3 feet high). Fellow Rennlister Eric Kessel let me borrow his ATV jack and I now plan to buy my own.
When I split the engine & transmission I just layed the trans down onto a furniture dolley.
The various online engine drop descriptions (Pelican/etc.) are okay but the step-by-step guide in Adrian's book is priceless.
And don't bother trying to loosen the engine ground strap while on your back reaching up & around the transmission. Lower the engine until you can a get socket wrench around the bolt from the engine bay area;
If you find one, dropping the engine becomes a cakewalk (unfortunately it doesn't help with loosening the oil lines). I had always wanted to drop my engine but was always afraid of having to lift the car 20 feet in the air at a 45 degree angle to try and squeeze the motor out. The more you take off the less you have to raise; I took the rear bumper off (a few rivets and some screws) and the intake manifold (9 screw clamps & maybe 6-8 10mm bolts/nuts). The result being I only need to have 18" between the ground and the jacking points between the front & rear wheels (and the car is perfectly level). The motor & transmission balances perfectly on the ATV jack and you can drag the motor all over your garage (or driveway) if you want and you don't have to worry about the thing falling off (you can also lift the engine to about 2-3 feet high). Fellow Rennlister Eric Kessel let me borrow his ATV jack and I now plan to buy my own. When I split the engine & transmission I just layed the trans down onto a furniture dolley.
The various online engine drop descriptions (Pelican/etc.) are okay but the step-by-step guide in Adrian's book is priceless.
And don't bother trying to loosen the engine ground strap while on your back reaching up & around the transmission. Lower the engine until you can a get socket wrench around the bolt from the engine bay area;
