Marc Shaw

Check strap kit from Type911 (www.type911.co.uk) includes extra pin, new bolts, and circlip. Tools needed for installation are shown (10 mm wrench or short socket set).

If reinforcement plates are installed too, order from Type911 also and include longer bolts. lock washers, and grease (DON"T use the grease, it is like glue and not very good. I used heavy duty wheel/chassis grease (waterproof), generic brand). Extra tools for reinforcement plates are large flat-blade screwdriver, 5 mm allen key, and string/scissors.

Marc Shaw

Remove door panel (instructions given here: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189690). Access to check strap is through speaker hole but just removing speaker is not adequate as is in a large basket that prevents access to inside of door.

Marc Shaw

Remove circlip on pin by pulling off with pliers. Tap pin out gently with hammer. Undo 10 mm bolts with wrench and DON'T drop bolts or washers inside door panels or it'll drive you nuts with the rattle (and door must be removed to get them out).

Marc Shaw

Remove old check-strap through speaker hole. Panel with check strap out also shown.

Marc Shaw

My check-strap bumber was mashed so door swung open to 90 degrees. Other problems are the annoying "click" as check-strap wears out and can,
ultimately, lead to tearing of metal at a-pillar (where pin is on car). This happened to my car and was fixed with a messy weld by the PO.

Marc Shaw

Insert new check-strap through speaker hole and bolt in place using supplier bolts and 10 mm wrench. Insert new pin and tap in place with hammer and then clip circlip onto pin again. Slather on lots of grease and you're done!

If reinforcement plates are used, follow instructions in kit. Basically put plate with curved edge inside door with curved part inward and forward with check-strap through centre hole. Tie string to other piece (so you don't drop it down inside the door!) and put outside door but inside of outer metal skin to sandwich metal of door between plates. Secure plates and check-strap with supplied longer bolts/washers and secure with 5 mm allen key. Just be careful that outerplate is as far towards inner part of door as possible and centred around check-strap or it'll foul on the check-strap tongue as the door closes.

Adding the reinforcement plates does add to the complexity and time required to do it (once you see it, it makes more sense as it is hard to describe but the
instructions that come with the plates are very good). In the book "101 Projects for your Porsche 911" he highly recommends these plates and they really seem to beef up the door. If the metal inside the door breaks or tears, you'll likely need a new door as welding inside the door is almost impossible. The a-pillar is also weak but can be fixed.

I felt it was worth the extra effort to install the reinforcement plates (and extra money as those plates are not cheap) and I'm happy I did it as I know my doors are safe from damage.

Marc Shaw

View of new check strap in place showing reinforcement plates.

Marc Shaw

First one took me about 2 hours but most time was spent figuring how to get the door off. Second took about 45 minutes, start to finish. and would have been quicker if I did not have to mess with reinforcement plates to get them in the right place.

Hope this helps someone.

Marc

Computamedic

Thanks for taking the trouble Marc to document this. I admire your dedication - it must add a significant amount of time to actually do the job when you stop every few miniutes to take photos!!

I think the problem on my car is that the fitting in the A pillar is shot/damaged/broken some how and it may be that changing the part you've documentedmay not be the whole story. However, it's given me a good insight into what's involved. Thanks again.

Regards


Dave

Marc Shaw

Dave - yes, if the a-pillar is torn or damage then it will require a re-weld. Just replacing the check-strap does not require any welding. It was fun to do and document - I'm just trying to give back to the group that has helped me so much over the last few months.

Marc

p.s. and yes, I went through lots of pairs of disposable gloves to take pictures without getting grease on my camera!

964Patrick

Excellent writeup! Gives me confidence enough to tackle this myself. Does anyone know what the part no. is for the check strap? Are they the same for both doors? And can the old bolts/pins/clips be reused? Thx!

DarrylH

964-537-057-00 same both sides, hardware reusable. Pelican's got 'em, among others (door stay, they call them http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...g7.htm#item36), but I haven't found an alternate (more local) source for the reinforcement kits, which are pretty expensive. If anybody has, I'd appreciate knowing. My mechanic said he'd heard there are OEM and aftermarket versions of the check straps, and that the aftermarket ones can be too stiff. There was another thread about this recently, although I'm not sure if the too stiff ones mentioned were original Porsche parts...

OUR9II

Alternatively, does anyone have a sketch or tracing of the reinforcing plates? These don't look like they would be too difficult to fab up, and it would be a (fun) option to sourcing these all the way from the UK.

Thanks in advance. Have fun with your projects.

Mike
'93 C2
'72T

Kahdmus

Marc, thank you!!! I am always so amazed at how good people are at sharing their knowledge and experiences on this board!

puma1824

I found these at Automotion.com (Performance Products)

Part numbers: 911167 and 911168 BUT for some odd reason they both are listed for older 911s while the print catalog has 911168 for "Late Style Door Stop." So I would call to verify first.