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Starting a new thread to capture my progress on my engine rebuild, and also get feedbacks from all you experts!! I will upload pics later on.
First question for now, I am in the process of ordering all the replacement parts from Pelican, trying to get it all from one supplier. Everyone talks about using ARP head studs, Pelican only offers the Supertec head stud kit. Are these as good or should I stick to ARP?
I used ARP because my engine builder recommended them. They certainly have a good following. Two original studs were broken in my engine when I bought the car….yowch
Not to get into a whole “head stud debate” but I went with the 993 turbo dilivar ones recommended by Steve Weiner (RIP). In his experience they work much better than the aftermarket ones at keeping the heads from loosening. Just an FYI when removing the old ones, collet only (no impact driver) & lots of heat at the base of the stud to melt the locktite. Heat it until it lets go….
Here are some pics of the engine drop (don't judge my pallet work!!) and the teardown. So far all looks good beside the play on Rod #3. Measured all cylinders and within specs. Crankshaft and camshaft/rockers no damage or scratches.
#1 Range inches Range mm
Top 3.9373 3.9390 100.0074 100.0506
Middle 3.9385 3.9388 100.0379 100.0455
Bottom 3.9383 3.9384 100.0328 100.0353
If I am going to balance my pistons, pins and rods, do I still need to send my crankshaft to get balanced individually?
I didn’t go to that length as my rods were not removed (I was redoing an engine rebuild).
I kept all pistons and pins in their respective sets, throughly cleaned them and then weighed them on digital kitchen scales. Five sets were the same weight and one set was 1 gram heavier.
I had my crankshaft balanced (individually). Nothing needed to be taken off so it was just peace of mind that it was in spec.
I did the same as John, balanced the pistons/pins/rods/rings on a scale all within 1/100th of a gram of each other.
I don’t even think the factory does that! Maybe overkill since carbon deposits will add weight anyway but 0.1g is a lot of weight
at high RPM. She idles smooth & should be good for another 200k.
I did a rebuild like your a few years back, happy to share my sources. I shopped around, never compromising on brands but will say that it was the case exactly zero times that pelican parts had the best deals. Delaware Porsche Parts, FCP Euro, Autohauz AZ even Amazon all delivered for me.
I used the supertec studs and liked them a lot, very well thought out and do not need any special bolt stretch gauge etc. I'm sure ARP are their equal, different strokes.
I am upgrading to 993 valves for my rebuild, do I need to replace the springs or can I re-use my 964 ones? (still in specs)
The age old conundrum. I would think along the lines of the next 15 years. Do you want 50 year old springs in 15 year old valves? Do you want to replace them later? If not, and the budget is there, put new springs in.