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While I agree with Anthony that this shouldn't be an issue, the unfortunate reality is that many of us likely have pitting leading to leaks in this area even if the cars are perfectly maintained under current ownership. I'm pulling my covers to inspect today as my motor has leaked dramatically since it was rebuild about 10k miles ago. I'm guessing Im going to find something similar to the photo above.
If these covers are a solution until I can either disassemble the motor to machine the surface (what my engine builder probably should have done) or upgrade them to 993 units, I'm a buyer.
While I agree with Anthony that this shouldn't be an issue, the unfortunate reality is that many of us likely have pitting leading to leaks in this area even if the cars are perfectly maintained under current ownership. I'm pulling my covers to inspect today as my motor has leaked dramatically since it was rebuild about 10k miles ago. I'm guessing Im going to find something similar to the photo above.
If these covers are a solution until I can either disassemble the motor to machine the surface (what my engine builder probably should have done) or upgrade them to 993 units, I'm a buyer.
Have you tried USC All Metal aluminum filler? I have used it for minor pitting and so far one engine has 12k miles and no leaks but sadly the housing to case seal started leaking so possibly time to rework them. It does work on minor pitting if you don't want to spend up for new boxes. Although the covers seem like an elegant solution. I might suggest having the hardware Yellow cad plated to prevent any galvanic issues.
Guys many thanks for the comments.
My covers were designed to be the final solution to the leaks between the boxes and covers.
no machining of the boxes nor upgrades to the 993 ones.
Only drawback is when you remove them for the next engine rebuild it will be more cleaning needed and more effort to remove them.
Guys many thanks for the comments.
My covers were designed to be the final solution to the leaks between the boxes and covers.
no machining of the boxes nor upgrades to the 993 ones.
Only drawback is when you remove them for the next engine rebuild it will be more cleaning needed and more effort to remove them.
Proper cleaning is the ticket and hopefully this will solve the problem of the boxes in need of replacement.
It seems the technical aspects are now clear :-)
Now something for the eye...
For the engine I'm currently (re)building and I know it will still take some time until finished I decided to go with semi matt black powder coating.
This is it, the set #2.
I covered with same coating the rocker covers and fan housing and few other parts, so all match.
At the same time my other friend got interested, but wanted them anodised in black, and that's the set #3 from the first post, mounted on the engine already last weekend.
So what do you think? Anodised in black or powder coated?
EDIT: Paid a visit to anodizing company today. We can go with any of these colors
I talked to my friendly CNC shop. With 10 sets ordered the price for a forum purchase would be around $399 + shipping (and current Exchange Rate for USD).
Anodised in Black and including hardware.
So if interested, please do sign up in the list. We’ll see where it goes.
Have you tried USC All Metal aluminum filler? I have used it for minor pitting and so far one engine has 12k miles and no leaks but sadly the housing to case seal started leaking so possibly time to rework them. It does work on minor pitting if you don't want to spend up for new boxes. Although the covers seem like an elegant solution. I might suggest having the hardware Yellow cad plated to prevent any galvanic issues.
I hadn't considered it and actually I have no experience with it. Is it possible to "paint" it on to the pitted surface and wipe away excess with the engine assembled?
Seems like it would be a good move even with these covers.
Paper gasket is not needed as you have completely flat mating surfaces. Just like with crankcase halves.
Attaching photo of the sealant applied (only boxes side needed). Basically you barely need it. Just fill in any pitting and add just a slight of sealant so no boxes surfaces visible. That’s it.
Don’t be hard on the wrench when installing the bolts. 10-12 Nm is enough (sorry I’m metric :-) ).
Seems it will be hard to achieve 10 in a timely manner. I can check what price I can get for 4-5 sets (I'll grab one for myself to put it on my shelf).
I'll let you know how the price changes.
Attaching the review I got on one of the local (Polish) Porsche owners lists on WhatsApp from a known (here) engine builder for the covers (and translation).
Guys, if you're building 964/993 engines, it is worth solving the problem of leaks from rubber seals on the timing chain covers. It usually leaks there because the original solution is, in my opinion, tragic. 5 years ago we put similar covers on Leon's, later I installed them and these areas are dry as pepper. Now Konrad took this topic further. The change consists of eliminating all of the rubbers and oil pockets that are created there. These covers go back to the solution of the F and G model. It's not an advertisement, I'm just sharing a good solution to the problem of leaks that annoy everyone
Nice work! I've had great success with all the parts that get sealed with Loctite 574 or similar variant and feel your approach is sound. If I could wave a wand an turn every single magnesium part on my 964 into aluminum (minuscule weight penalty and all) I would be waving that wand FAST & HARD. Nothing but heartache from every single mag part on the car.
01-16-2023, 12:02 PM
