check light big illumination
05-07-2004, 08:23 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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check light big illumination
my check light comes on when i start the car. i push the reset button on the center console and it goes out. but when i start the car once again its back on until i push the reset button again. it never comes on while the engine is running.
is this normal, ive had a couple of people say that it is normal.
it just seems agrivating to have to go through that process everytime i get in the car.
is this normal, ive had a couple of people say that it is normal.
it just seems agrivating to have to go through that process everytime i get in the car.
05-07-2004, 11:53 PM
#2
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Hi Duncan,
It's not normal to need to cancel your central warning light after starting your engine. A lit "check engine " light means there's an emissions malfunction.
Now, I'm not sure if you mean the big apostrophe idiot light (aka, "big illumination") on your oil gauge (second one over from the portside). That light and others go thru a self check if you put the key in and turn but stop before "start" position.
Refer to your manual on what to expect.
After the engine is running, you'll get the big apostrophe "central warning light" and an associated "warning light" such as, fan belt, low fuel, or god forbid, low oil pressure only after an alarm condition is met.
If what your referring to is in fact the "central warning light", then I suspect that the associated warning light as been pulled or not working, and all you see is the 'big apostrophe" which you cancel.
Check the various warning lights with the key in but not cranking your engine, you could see a light not lit during this self checking condition.
A functioning 964 will only have the "spoiler" warning light on but will clear itself once the car rolls over 4 mph.
later, mojo
It's not normal to need to cancel your central warning light after starting your engine. A lit "check engine " light means there's an emissions malfunction.
Now, I'm not sure if you mean the big apostrophe idiot light (aka, "big illumination") on your oil gauge (second one over from the portside). That light and others go thru a self check if you put the key in and turn but stop before "start" position.
Refer to your manual on what to expect.
After the engine is running, you'll get the big apostrophe "central warning light" and an associated "warning light" such as, fan belt, low fuel, or god forbid, low oil pressure only after an alarm condition is met.
If what your referring to is in fact the "central warning light", then I suspect that the associated warning light as been pulled or not working, and all you see is the 'big apostrophe" which you cancel.
Check the various warning lights with the key in but not cranking your engine, you could see a light not lit during this self checking condition.
A functioning 964 will only have the "spoiler" warning light on but will clear itself once the car rolls over 4 mph.
later, mojo
05-08-2004, 02:07 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
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Mojo
Thanks for the info I'll be sure to check any missing bulbs right away.
But I've only noticed the spoiler light on after the engine is srarted.
Thanks again and I'ld also like to say thanks to everyone else who adds to this question because I'm sure others as well as myself will be benefitting from it.
Duncan
Thanks for the info I'll be sure to check any missing bulbs right away.
But I've only noticed the spoiler light on after the engine is srarted.
Thanks again and I'ld also like to say thanks to everyone else who adds to this question because I'm sure others as well as myself will be benefitting from it.
Duncan
05-08-2004, 02:20 AM
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The same thing has been happening recently with my car. It is driving me crazy
I have owed the car for 1 year and over the past 3 weeks the " ! " light has been illuminating after I drive for 3-10 minutes. Soemtime when I start the car it will go out like normal ( a few seconds) other times it stays lit and I have to turn it off from the center console switch
I have checked for fault codes and have come up with what I interpret as "1-5"
Is there something I should be looking for.. like a loose wire or something as it seams to trigger when I stomp on the accelerator or go over a very bumpy surface.
can a loose or faulty O2 sensor cause this?
I have also noticed a recent power loss.
HELP PLEASE
I have owed the car for 1 year and over the past 3 weeks the " ! " light has been illuminating after I drive for 3-10 minutes. Soemtime when I start the car it will go out like normal ( a few seconds) other times it stays lit and I have to turn it off from the center console switch
I have checked for fault codes and have come up with what I interpret as "1-5"
Is there something I should be looking for.. like a loose wire or something as it seams to trigger when I stomp on the accelerator or go over a very bumpy surface.
can a loose or faulty O2 sensor cause this?
I have also noticed a recent power loss.
HELP PLEASE
05-08-2004, 03:15 AM
#5
Victor:
Code 1-5 is actually code 1500, which means you have no faults detected with the emissions system. This means that the O2 sensor is likely not causing the problem.
The central warning light (the "!" light) will illuminate in 2 priority levels, with priority 1 being the worst (as in STOP THE CAR NOW) and will cause the central warning light, a fault light associated with the failing system, and the buzzer to sound. Priority 1 only goes off if the brake pressure has dropped, there's a problem with the ABS system, or there's an interlock problem (C4 only). Priority 2 is not an emergency but it's serious, and will go off when the brake fluid level is low, the parking brake is on (or the sensors THINK it's on), a fault exists with the fan belt or fan belt sensor,, the oil pressure is low, your low on fuel, your spoiler is malfunctioning or the CPU THINKS it's malfunctioning, theres some sort of problem with the convertible top on convertibles, or there's something wrong with the air bag/seat belt system. A third priority level is level 3, which goes off when you're low on washer fluid or your brake pad wear sensors have detected the brakes are in need of servicing, but with priority 3, only the fault light associated with each of these items will go on, and the central warning system light ( "!" ) will not illuminate. Only priority level 1 faults should set the buzzer off.
From the erratic problems you guys are reporting, I would be looking at wiring associated with any of the faults I just listed above in the priority 2 category. A Bosch Hammer may be needed if you want to make life much easier on yourselves. You might also want to look at the owners manual which covers all this stuff (at least the US version does).
Hope this helps,
Code 1-5 is actually code 1500, which means you have no faults detected with the emissions system. This means that the O2 sensor is likely not causing the problem.
The central warning light (the "!" light) will illuminate in 2 priority levels, with priority 1 being the worst (as in STOP THE CAR NOW) and will cause the central warning light, a fault light associated with the failing system, and the buzzer to sound. Priority 1 only goes off if the brake pressure has dropped, there's a problem with the ABS system, or there's an interlock problem (C4 only). Priority 2 is not an emergency but it's serious, and will go off when the brake fluid level is low, the parking brake is on (or the sensors THINK it's on), a fault exists with the fan belt or fan belt sensor,, the oil pressure is low, your low on fuel, your spoiler is malfunctioning or the CPU THINKS it's malfunctioning, theres some sort of problem with the convertible top on convertibles, or there's something wrong with the air bag/seat belt system. A third priority level is level 3, which goes off when you're low on washer fluid or your brake pad wear sensors have detected the brakes are in need of servicing, but with priority 3, only the fault light associated with each of these items will go on, and the central warning system light ( "!" ) will not illuminate. Only priority level 1 faults should set the buzzer off.
From the erratic problems you guys are reporting, I would be looking at wiring associated with any of the faults I just listed above in the priority 2 category. A Bosch Hammer may be needed if you want to make life much easier on yourselves. You might also want to look at the owners manual which covers all this stuff (at least the US version does).
Hope this helps,
05-08-2004, 03:29 AM
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Bill,
Thank You for your reply. I have noticed on 2 or 3 occasions a Buzzer sound has gone off a few seconds after i start the car. It seems to only happen on very cold days. During those events NO warning lights have come on. any thoughts or comments.
Regarding the Hammer... do the rennlister's have a community tool loan system
. I would like to use the hammer however i hear they are hard to get ahold of.
I cant belive no one has come up with an adaptor to interface with a laptop.. Any computer GUYS out there?
Thank You for your reply. I have noticed on 2 or 3 occasions a Buzzer sound has gone off a few seconds after i start the car. It seems to only happen on very cold days. During those events NO warning lights have come on. any thoughts or comments.
Regarding the Hammer... do the rennlister's have a community tool loan system
. I would like to use the hammer however i hear they are hard to get ahold of. I cant belive no one has come up with an adaptor to interface with a laptop.. Any computer GUYS out there?
05-08-2004, 08:17 AM
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Just a thought (not a diagnosis) but have you checked the battery voltages and earthing points. The 964 warning light system seems (from my brief experience - I switch on my headlights (HID conversion) and various warning lights come on - and from other posts on this forum) to be very sensitive to voltage.
There are various posts on the forum that will tell you the correct static and idle battery voltages to look for. Mention was made of the problem occuring when going hitting a bump - could be a loose connection or poor earth.
Also linked (somehow) to warning lights problems is the clock and the solder joints in the clock unit PCB. I re-touched mine recently and I now have new warning lights I never had before and warning lights that go out more predictably than before as well. Well worth the hour or so it took to do. You can find a good set of instructions here: http://www.porsche964.co.uk/technical/clock.htm
Mike
There are various posts on the forum that will tell you the correct static and idle battery voltages to look for. Mention was made of the problem occuring when going hitting a bump - could be a loose connection or poor earth.
Also linked (somehow) to warning lights problems is the clock and the solder joints in the clock unit PCB. I re-touched mine recently and I now have new warning lights I never had before
and warning lights that go out more predictably than before as well. Well worth the hour or so it took to do. You can find a good set of instructions here: http://www.porsche964.co.uk/technical/clock.htmMike
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05-09-2004, 03:01 AM
#8
Victor:
Mike brings up a REALLY GOOD point about checking the voltage levels. All digital circuits have a threshold and, when the voltage drops below that threshold, the circuits behaviour becomes flaky. If the voltage looks OK, I'd let someone with a hammer take a look at it and see if he can isolate. If you look in the archives, I think techniques for checking the voltage have been discussed several times.
Good Luck,
Mike brings up a REALLY GOOD point about checking the voltage levels. All digital circuits have a threshold and, when the voltage drops below that threshold, the circuits behaviour becomes flaky. If the voltage looks OK, I'd let someone with a hammer take a look at it and see if he can isolate. If you look in the archives, I think techniques for checking the voltage have been discussed several times.
Good Luck,
